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Puerto Escondido 2023

Puerto Escondido a beautiful place!

I have been coming here for nearly a decade almost on an annual basis and I have used it as my jumping off point for other destinations both within and without Mexican borders. The natural beauty in Puerto is unparalleled with tropical plants, aromatic scents wafting in the night air and an ocean breeze that lifts the oppression of the heat. Spirit quenching sunsets and cliff top ocean views or beachside restaurants magically conclude every day. These are the things that drew me to Puerto and kept me coming back.

But….and there is a but. Puerto has been “discovered” and the number of people crowding into this area is phenomenal. Unprecedented building and development on top of already overburdened infrastructure and public facilities means crowded beaches, plane loads of tourists from as far away as the Netherlands, (KLM now books to Puerto through Mexico City), giving rise to the usual controversy for the locals. Is development good, bad or indifferent? Opinions vary but one thing is clear some will benefit and others will not.

Puerto has been amazing over the years and some of my highlights have included excursions and day trips up and down the Coast highway that takes you to a variety of beaches, towns, lagoons, wild-life sanctuaries and mangroves, all with a backdrop of the Sierra de Sur mountains. Over the years I have visited the spectacular mangroves and lagoons of Chacahua National Park to the north of Puerto. To the south I have made trips to Mazunte, a hip kind of beach town, Zipolite a town known for it’s nude/gay friendliness, and further south to Hualtulco, a resort town popular with tourists due to daily direct flights from places like Vancouver. Also in that area I have stayed in and visited the town of Tonemeca where I have friends.

Not day trips, I have ventured up into the Sierra del Sur Mountains to visit the capital of the state of Oaxaca, Oaxaca City and also to the alpine town of San Jose del Pacifico home of alpine adventures, such as drop zones, zip lines and cliff top swings!

In Puerto itself there are several beaches, starting at the southern most part of town, there is the surfer beach La Punta with restaurants, bars and night life. Hard to swim if you’re not a strong swimmer but easier and safer than Zicatela beach which is north toward the center of town and a great place to sit in the sand or in a restaurant to enjoy the sunset, but not a swimming beach with wild waves and rip tides. The next beach is the main beach and toward the southern end it is swimmable and well used by locals for both swimming and anchoring fish boats. Around the point there is Manzanillo and Puerto Angelito beaches, favourites with locals as they are safe, swimmable and can be accessed easily, whereas the next beach, Carazillo has a ferocious set of stairs which going down at the beginning of the day are far less daunting than climbing them at the end of the day. And rounding the corner the final beach in Puerto, Bacocha, is truly beautiful but again the rough surf makes swimming difficult but an interesting site on the beach is the sea turtle sanctuary with a release program once the eggs hatch and the turtles are ready to take to the seas.

On this particular winter respite in Mexico I have paid more for my apartment, with granted, a lovely garden and pool which blessedly is rarely used by anyone but myself, than I have ever paid anywhere in Mexico. Is Mexico becoming too expensive for me? Will I need to look elsewhere for new places to discover and wander? Is it that a place too frequently visited does not remain frozen in time and is subject to the same changes that are rolling across the landscapes of this post-modern world. Not sure when I will return, as I have other plans for next year, I dedicate this post in the memory of my friend Rangel Cruz Valencia, and I leave you with my favourite photos from 2023 Puerto!

Mazatlan Sinaloa Mexico

First time in Mazatlan….and much better than I expected. Normally I don’t frequent the big name resort towns in Mexico but I accepted an invitation from friends to join them in their ocean front condo just outside of Mazatlan. Recent news has been pretty grim from the state of Sinola with violent activity between cartels and government forces but in Mazatlan there wasn’t any visible sign of the trouble.

Mazatlan has beautiful long beaches, resorts, condos and a party area called the Gold Zone if you’re interested in night life. Off the roads that run along the shore is where the locals of Mazatlán live, work, shop and play. There are large malls with expensive stores, lots of cinemas, restaurants of every type and plenty of cabs and DiDi cars to get you around quickly and safely. The airport is way out of town so traveling to your accommodation can be expensive.

My favorite parts of Mazatlan were the Historic Centre and Isla de las Piedras. Since we were staying a ways out of town we had to head to the other side of Mazatlan to get to the Isla de Piedras boat launch. We liked it there so much we went twice and both times were rewarded with the antics and festivities of local families.

Isla de la Piedras – in truth a peninsula not an island but getting there by boat is faster easier and very inexpensive.

Antics, music, family day and fun on the playa….note in this video the women mostly bailed!!!

One of the best things about Mazatlan, besides the cooler weather than in other parts of Mexico, is that someone has had the foresight to keep the old city intact and as a result Mazatlan has a soul, unlike other resort towns, for example Cancun. Many good restaurants and night life to be found in El Centro Histórico, much more my thing than the Gold Zone (party central) but it’s great that you have a choice.

Beautiful Colonial Buildings en El Centro Histórico Daytime

Stumbled across a wedding in the Cathedral…expect the public at your Boda in Mexico

Nighttime in the old city is magical. Music, lights, clinking of glasses, and the rattle of dishes fill the happy air as diners enjoy food, drink and each other’s company in the Plazuela Machado (main square). Just for the cool night air, the long beautiful beaches and El Centro Histórico I would consider a return to Mazatlan over other resort destinations in Mexico.

A Very English Christmas

A feast for the eyes and spirit…

When your nephew invites to his home in Westgate on Sea in Kent England for Christmas you would be a fool to say no. Although I had a fun week in Europe at the Christmas Markets my Very English Christmas was the purpose of my travels.

I arrived in at my nephews stone house on the shores of the North Sea in time to watch Christmas preparations unfold. My wonderful nephew and his family took great pains to make this a special Christmas, beginning with touring the local area visiting castles, villages, museums and cathedrals.

A Warn Welcome in a lovely home

Wild skies and lonely winter beaches along the Kent coast

Kent is know as the Garden of England and is famous for the White Cliffs of Dover, Canterbury Cathedral, Churchills home Chartwell & numerous castles, forts and manor houses.

Close to Westgate is Walmer Castle built during the reign of Henry the VIII as a coastal defense, the ownership of the castle has passed down through the centuries and is now a property managed by the English Heritage. It has eight acres of gardens which due to the stormy weather we only enjoyed from above in the dryness of the castle. One famous resident of the castle was the Duke of Wellington and his bed and boots are still there along with his story. Also close to Walmer Castle are Roman ruins where the forces of Rome launched their invasion of Celtic Britan.

We also drove along the coast to see Dover Castle which from the exterior is quite stunning in size, location and design but it was an extremely windy day and the castle itself was closed to safeguard would be tourists. We were however able to visit the underground tunnels original to the castle but used extensively during the Second World War. We weren’t allowed to take photos inside the tunnels but inside their own relics of WWII communications technology. Weather made photos impossible from outside so here is a photo from wikipedia of the Castle .

Dover Castle

Along the coast we visited a variety of places and walked through the towns and along the beaches and even in the winter there is a charm and beauty to Kent that comes from the magnificent skies, seaside towns and living history.

Coastal Towns of Kent, Ramsgate, Margate, Broadmear

One evening a group of us headed for Canterbury where we visited the Christmas Market and did some shopping in the historic centre before heading into the Cathedral for a Christmas service, the main attraction being the choral music, richly satisfying in this age old Cathedral with naturally fantastic acoustics.

My nephew, Christian and I spent three great days in London, renting an air bnb in Kensington we managed to buy same day tickets at discounted prices for the musical Tina and the play The Best of Enemies. Both were interesting to see but I think Covid has impacted the world of theatre greatly and these were two of the few things that I haven’t seen in various trips to London. Hopefully things will revive and there will be new playbills on the horizon.

My London traditions include “light seeing” along Regent and Oxford Streets, purchasing Christmas tea at Harrods, visiting Covent Gardens and spending some time in wine bars and pubs. I like to visit Trafalgar Square because both the National Gallery and Canada House are there and of course St. Martin’s in the Field, where if you’re lucky you can catch a Christmas Concert and have a bite to eat in the Catacombs below the church.

Christian and I said goodbye for a time while I headed off to meet friends in Oxford where we spent a weekend catching up, visiting (guess what) Christmas markets, pubs and seeing the various College buildings scattered around the University of Oxford.

After a fun time in Oxford I went back to Brighton with my friends and stayed for several nights. Long enough to walk the sea wall and watch the “sky show”above the English Channel. On the solstice Brighton celebrates the shortest day of the year with a pagan celebration known as Burning the Clocks. A parade of people with a variety of interesting lanterns made from rice paper and bamboo wend their way through the old narrow streets, ending at the beach where there is a giant bonfire to burn the lanterns and to add more light to the picture a boat is burned to acknowledge the coming of light as the days get longer.

Since the trains were on rotating strikes it was difficult to get from one place to another but a window op opportunity presented and I was able to take a train from Brighton back to Westgate on Sea just in time for Christmas. Eleven people were at the table and my hosts made the most wonderful dinner with of course Christmas pudding at the end.

To top it all off, for New Years, we drove clear across England from Kent to Polperro in Cornwall. This is a quaint stone house type fishing village with again a lengthy and rich history. Folks come to Polperro to celebrate New Years by wearing “fancy dress” or what we Canadians would call costumes. It was so much fun and in the post-covid world people were hungry to gather and celebrate with music, dance, food and drink and fireworks at midnight in the main square. I loved how people mingled with complete strangers, admiring each other’s costumes and sharing the joy of celebrating what hopefully will be a much better year in these interesting times.

I loved my English Christmas, I loved getting together with family, the variety of things I was able to see and do, the fun, witty, friendly people I always meet in the UK. Needless to say I will be back. Thanks to everyone who made my visit so stellar!

Advent in Germany & Austria

The Warmth of Christmas Markets

In the days running up to Christmas the world takes on a glow, people scurry about making their holiday preparations but perhaps one of the best traditions I’ve encountered are the German and Austrian Christmas markets. Outside in the cold sipping mulled wine (Gluwein) is surprisingly pleasant and warming. Town squares are festooned with rows of booths and throngs of locals gearing up for the Season. The booths invitingly lit and stuffed with various foods, sweets, games, toys, decorations etc.. You can never go hungry or thirsty at one of these markets as you squeeze between the crowds, navigating your way to the next booth for a Gluwein or a delicious German sausage!

I have travelled in Germany in the past but often to large cities and there one brushes up against the European International experience. On this trip to Germany I visited a friend and her family who live just outside of Munich. Utting is one of many small hamlets in this area known as the “Five Lakes” region. Utting is on the lake and if you look east and north to the end of the lake you can see the Alps. My friends family was warm and hospitable and shared food and traditions, including the lightening of the four candles on each Sunday leading up to Christmas Day. Great food and lots of laughs were shared.

A beautiful lake in Utting and in the summer there is a ferry to the other side and if you look down the lake you can see the Alps.

Nearby there are larger centers and during the days my friend and I drove to cities of Landsberg and Augsburg to see the sights and visit the Christmas Markets.

Landsberg

Landsberg is a smallish town on the beautiful Lech river and the settlement can be traced back more than 2000 years. There is a beautiful very old and ornate city hall with an information centre which has brochures in English if, like me, that’s what you are limited to.

The town square Christmas Market in Landsberg

A very tall tree.

Street Scenes as the afternoon wanes

Foot bridges and over the river and it’s branches that run right through the town.

City gates protected Landsberg in days gone by.

The River runs between the buildings and cascades at the widest point.

Landsberg Cathedral

Signs of what outdoor summer time is like in Landsberg

When the sunsets the Christmas Market comes alive

Delicious eats and warming drinks while you shop the stalls.

Augsburg

Next stop was the town of Augsburg, a city bigger than Landsberg and it too was in full Christmas Market swing. Founded under Roman rule Augsburg has roots that go back 2000 years making it one of Germany’s oldest cities. With a city centre boasting a grand shopping street, Maximillianstraus, and beautiful Baroque and Renaissance buildings fronting the main square where you will find the Christmas Market.

The rooftops of Augsburg

These giant homes, now apartments, offer a pastel palette to passers by.

The amazingly gilded government palace on the main square.

The market from above and down in the thick of things

Wide variety of foods and crafts make for interesting shopping experiences

My lovely guide and friend Andrea

Munich

Munich, Bavaria’s capital, is home to centuries-old buildings and numerous museums. The city is known for its annual Oktoberfest celebration and its beer halls, including the famed Hofbräuhaus, founded in 1589. In the Altstadt (Old Town), central Marienplatz square contains landmarks such as Neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (town hall), with a popular glockenspiel show that chimes and reenacts stories from the 16th Century.

In addition to which, Munich boasts the an impressive number of Christmas markets scattered around the city centre. The same array of food, drink and shopping as other markets but on a bigger scale. Impressive in all seasons I especially loved Munich at Christmas.

Munich Main Square

Sampling of Christmas Markets around the Main Square

Vienna

Next stop on my Advent tour was Vienna. A four hour train trip from Munich Vienna is no slouch either in the Christmas Market tradition. Having made a friend on a boat trip down the Mekong River I decided to visit, see Vienna and rekindle the friendship. So glad I did as Vienna was resplendent in all it’s Christmas glory.

Busy shopping street in Vienna

The not so blue Danube and one of the River Boats

In between visits with my friends I took the Hop on Hop Off Bus Tour of Vienna which has grown outwardly since I visited in the 80’s. There is so much to see and do in Vienna and it is truly a city for all seasons, but a winter visit does mean fewer tourists and more breathing room than what I remember.

Dinners out and visits to Christmas Markets kept me and my friends fed and entertained as Gluwein in hand, we sipped our way through the stalls.

Environmentally friendly, you pay a deposit for the non-disposable mugs and if you return them you get your euros back but if you wish to keep the mug as a souvenir that is fine.

My last day in Vienna, it snowed and that was an added bonus. Great white fluffy flakes falling on the city completed the Christmas spirit and I left glad that I had gone and hopeful to return to both Austria and Germany.

New Mexico – A Quick Trip to Santa Fe

Santa Fe is well worth the visit. It has literally miles of museums and galleries.

Surprisingly quick trip from Nanaimo BC to New Mexico. Spent most of my travel time in airports and the least amount of time in the air. It’s only about 3 hours to Denver Colorado from Vancouver and an hour more to Albuquerque.

My first stop on the way to Santa Fe was Placitas, a rural town about 40 minutes north of Albuquerque. I stayed on an acreage surrounded by hills and mountains, dotted with juniper and aspen trees. The background is mainly brown rocky terrain and the dust is kicked up by the winds, but there is a certain charm to this desert landscape. Certainly artists and artisans have capitalized on the unsung beauty of the place and the history and culture of the peoples who live here.

Placitas is just outside of the city of Bernalillo and is part way between Albuquerque and Santa Fe. After a tour around Placitas with a friend, we headed into the Sandia mountains for some hiking to a cave that is accessible from a spiral staircase. Way above the valley, it was a good viewpoint to see New Mexico’s terrain. It is spring time so the temperature is reasonable and the trees are in bloom

The view from the Sandia Man Cave the haze is from fires in northern New Mexico

I took the train from Placitas to Santa Fe. The Road Runner as the train is known, is great and runs from Albuquerque to Santa Fe and it cost me a grand total of one US dollar. The train runs through ranch country, passing through Indigenous Pueblos and small settlements. The rural areas of New Mexico look a little poor in places with run down looking homes and collections of old broken down vehicles. This is in stark contrast to the city of Santa Fe,

An hour on the train and an easy walk to the hotel San Ensendor Motel, I stashed my bags and had an afternoon to wander. Santa Fe is definitely a tourist destination. It was very busy and as I discovered, home to many events, including this car show in the main square.

Shiny old cars and trucks really bring out the crowds

Santa Fe itself is well worth the visit. It has literally miles of museums and galleries, a world class opera (which sadly was not in season) and ancient traditions that continue to flourish. Everywhere you turn there is an impressive array of paintings, sculpture, pottery and photography and artisanal crafts. Easily walkable the streets of Sante Fe are full of life, bright with colour, music and good food ranging from Asian to local cuisine.

A fun place to visit for a few days, wandering the streets is exactly what the old city seems to be laid out for.

The spiral staircase in the Loretta Chapel

In addition to it’s artsy nature, Santa Fe has a rich history and is supposed to be the oldest capital city in the United States. The central Plaza and Catholic Churches, including the Loretta Chapel and its famous spiral staircase, are reminders of it’s days as a Spanish Colony established in 1610. Also well visited is the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi.

The number of museums and public galleries is staggering. Three days in Santa Fe are not sufficient. In order to see them all you would need several more days. Visiting the museums reveals the pre-colonial peoples and their history and the blend of cultures that resulted post contact with the Spanish. In Santa Fe you will find the Georgia O’Keefe Museum, New Mexico Museum of Art, Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, Museum of International Folk Art, Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian and Museum of New Mexico of Contemporary Native Arts and many others.

The week flew by and after the wedding of my friends, I returned to Albuquerque and flew home to Canada. Luckily the covid travel restrictions of the past few years have started to relax and made the trip much easier and more relaxed.

Bonus Months in the Yucatán

Wandering in the time of Covid!

So many plans so many cancellations and permutations. How do I count thee???

It seems that many of my plans to go somewhere, (South America, San Miguel de Allende and Oaxaca City for example) meet up with someone, and do something new and different just haven’t been possible, reasonable, or safe, at least in part due to COVID. A surprise? Not really after two plus years of pandemic practice I think we’re all better prepared to handle dash of uncertainty with a smidgeon of chaos.

I’d like to say that I’ve held a sunny que sera sera disposition throughout it all but I’d be lying. I am a planner and not being free to plan, enact and relish travel has caused a few frayed edges. Having said that I want to clarify that in spite of it all I am more than happy to follow public health safety measures and have the greatest regard for those who are keeping us safe.

At any rate this is a travel blog and I digress but a point I’d like to make is that if you expect to leave COVID behind when you travel during the pandemic that is just not the case. Adaptability, flexibility and rebounding with plan B remain the hallmarks of travel and are only intensified during the time of COVID!

So here I am, enacting plan B with spending two and a half months in the Yucatan, a place I know and love, remembering to count my blessings.

Spanglish – Leaning into Spanish

I have been fortunate enough to have had several very good Spanish teachers over the years. I studied at the University of Havana and had a great tutor named Ernesto. In Progreso I’ve studied under Luis Angel Cervantes at ”Speak Up Progreso” and have even had Luis and two of his local english language students, visit me in Canada. I’ve taken a few weeks of lessons in Nicaragua and in Puerto Escondido and even at home in Nanaimo. I am most grateful for all of these teachers and for my wonderful, thoughtful and patient Spanish speaking friends who forbear (Sandi, Ale, Rangel, Nora, Caty) while I butcher the language. With the minimal amount of Spanish I have, I feel comfortable enough to get around and survive quite nicely on my own in most parts of Mexico. Additionally, I feel that it is my responsibility as a guest in Mexico to make the effort and since there are so many different options on-line and face-to-face, there is no excuse not to invest some time.

Luis Angel’s Language School

“Puebloing”…when a noun becomes a verb!

Things to Do are endless in the Yucatan and I have written about many of them in earlier posts, beaches, cenotes, mangroves, bird watching, Maya Ruins and the city of Merida all offer great days out when you want to tear yourself away from your pool at Kurt’s place.

After many years of renting cars and driving the backroads of the Yucatan to visit various sites I began to appreciate the Pueblos you see along the way. With a rental car and maybe some companions you can do something I call “Pueblo-ing.” Much like “garage-salting” it is a made up word which can be defined as “driving the backroads of the Yucatan specifically to visit the towns, all of which have their own special characteristics”. Each Pueblo has a main square, a comisario and a church (I call that the main event) but from there they are all unique.