London

London at Christmas…..a great time to visit.

For me, there is no place like a big city before Christmas kicks off, and London is no slouch when it comes to lighting up for the festive season. Everywhere you turn there are trees, streets, buildings and anything else that doesn’t move, festooned with bright lights, making even the usual things to do all the more enjoyable.

Luckily, I spent the first few nights in Kensington at the Holiday Inn. I say luckily because this was a complimentary upgrade from Hotels.com as my original hotel (not nearly as swank), was overbooked. A lovely predicament….my room was big by London standards, indeed I could have swung a cat by the tail in a complete circle without touching a wall. It even had a comfortable queen size bed and was in a great location. Shops, restaurants, the underground and great wandering, all right out side my door. I’m oddly happy that it gets dark in pre-Christmas London, because the holiday lights are fantastic.

Staying in Kensington I was close to Hyde Park so I took in the Queen Victoria exhibits celebrating the 200th anniversary of her birth in Kensington Palace. There were exhibits of her toys including a huge dollhouse and puppet theatre. Of course it sounds lovely to have it all and live in a palace but at what cost to personal freedom. Her history as a grownup was covered in the the crown exhibition including jewels (pretty ornate) and her story as a woman (apparently she opposed the franchise for women), mother (lots of children), wife (adored Albert by all accounts) and monarch (long did she reign).

Using both the internet and TKTS ticket both in Leicester Square (best place to get discounted same day tickets), I was able to see a number of productions. In a small theatre just off Leicester Square I saw Miss Kiddy and the Cads, the ultimate in vintage sophistication but with a modern twist giving a jazz beat to contemporary hit tunes. The audience included a couple of avid fans that never miss a Miss Kiddy show, one of whom came miles to see her. Lots of fun.

In contrast, the next night I ventured out to the Royal Albert Hall for the BT Christmas Concert featuring the Royal Symphony Orchestra with the BT choir and the London Community Gospel choir which rocked the house. People were on their feet singing, dancing and clapping, “taken to church” by the great vocals.

Seeing Hamilton in the Victoria Palace Theatre, was a highlight. Had great seats 4 rows from the stage so could see the details of the action. A real homage to the long forgotten roll of Blacks in gaining independence from England and in the writing of the US constitution.

A new musical called & Juliet was playing at the Shaftesbury and I got to witness William Shakespeare and his wife Anne Hathaway attempting to sort out their flagging marriage by cowriting a very different ending to the Romeo and Juliet. Lots of fun and quirky twists and best of all the music was chosen from contemporary hits sung to complement the story line which caused lots of laughter in the audience. Picture Juliet (not dead) singing I’m On Fire. And to cap off a perfect evening, just wandering my way through the West End, China Town and surrounding streets to and from the theatre was pleasure in itself.

Prior to heading to St. Martin’s in the Field, I was given a personal tour of the palatial Foreign Office, built to impress, by a young friend who works there. A lovely young woman, Liz and I even had a peek at No. 10 Downing as we exited the Foreign Office before heading to dine in the Crypt of St. Marin’s. St. Martin’s is another personal favourite thing to do, the acoustics are fantastic and the world class Academy of St. Martin’s performed Vivaldi’s “Winter” and were joined by a children’s choir for Christmas Carols. As at Royal Albert Hall the audience was invited to sing-along at least part of the time. London audiences love this participation element and you’d never know they had just experienced a terrorist attack on London bridge or that the UK was on the brink of a national election that might see them exit the EU. (We all know the results as I edit)

Close to St. Martin’s is Covent Garden with the Royal Opera House, Christmas markets and restaurants and where opera singers are the buskers. Cold but relatively clear, it was a good night to wander the streets all the way from Covent Garden, through Trafalgar Square, Up Regent Street and along to Oxford Circus.

Last accommodation was a tube ride away from Kensington on the Piccadilly Line to Finsbury Park where I met up with friends Dawn & Craig in a rented air BnB. Not the fanciest digs but a basic two bedroom flat with a kitchen was fine as we spent most of our time out and about. A trip to the Christmas Market on the Southbank, Harrods and Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park were great fun.

No trip to London is complete without visiting the zebra cross-walk where the Beatles famously strode their way to the Abbey Road Recording Studio. Close by is the Regent Canal and Little Venice where you can take a longboat to Camden Locks and the market and shops that were home to punk rockers but are now mainly touristy. Packed with Christmas shoppers it was cheek to jowl on the tube back to the flat.

Saying goodbye to Dawn and Craig (they left for Scotland) and I headed out to a hotel close to Heathrow for a couple of nights before I fly off to Bangkok. Another London chapter concludes!

Brighton, Amsterdam, Cotswold’s & London

Soho in London

A long and the tedious flight from Bangkok to London ended with a bus ride to Brighton and a taxi ride to Heathers in Hove. Finally, at long last I arrived at Heather’s lovely flat in time to fall into bed and sleep off at least some of the jet lag. The windy wet weather in Brighton wasn’t very inspiring for walks along the sea wall, but finally there was a break on Saturday and off we went to do a little wandering. The Brighton sea wall is a beautiful place to walk, and the vastness of the English Channel never ceases to awe, and the bones of the old burned pier still stick up out of the water. Along the way the old structures charm; the change rooms, the restaurants etc., but suddenly the eye is drawn upward by a giant thing that looks like a donut on a stick but is in fact a ride that will take you skyward to survey Brighton and the English Channel. Brighton high street bustles on a Saturday and we finished our shopping quickly to get back outside into the sea air. Lucky for me there was a birthday celebration for a friend of Heather’s which to my delight meant a Sunday pub lunch.

Since Heather was working during the week I decided to make a quick trip to Amsterdam. If you fly with a lost cost carrier like Easy Jet, don’t care where you sit and pack a small carry on it is a cheap trip and since I booked on Expedia I added a hotel for a reasonable price. I had not been to Amsterdam since the eighties and I really wanted to see the museums again. My hotel was just a few tram stops from the museum zone. As I was pressed for time I did little else and managed to squeeze in the Reijks Museum, the Van Gogh and the Moco which was featuring an exhibition by Banksy among others.

I only made one trip into the heart of Amsterdam and the rain was pouring down necessitating several hot coffees on my wander and saw some of the more famous sights at least from the outside.

I arrived back in Brighton in time to leave for a weekend in the Cotswolds where a group of us had rented a lovely Cotswold Cottage close to Stroud.

On Saturday, Heather and I enjoyed a long walk to Stroud where we met up with our friends at the Stroud market which dates back 100’s of years. The market had arts, crafts and food booths for blocks with some beautiful items from local artisans. We finished off with a visit to a Brewery on the way back to our cottage and once there we prepared a lovely meal of lamb and veg bought at the market.

One of the party was returning to Milton Keynes and I was able to catch a ride to the train. Milton Keynes is interesting as it is one of the few modern day planned cities in England. The city was built in the middle of three small villages with long histories. A commercial & corporate centre, it is modern and spacious. I caught the train from there back to London Euston and the tube to the flat I rented close to the Tate Museum. A great little place, I had a view of the Thames, Vauxhall Bridge, M5 and the Tate.

Heather came to stay with me on the weekend and we had dinner out and visited a wine bar in a cellar that I had never been to before. Heather knows all the best places. Of course everyone is a nervous about the Covid virus that seemed to have originated in a wet market in China but people are still going about their business. My flight home is tomorrow and I look forward to getting home just in time for spring.