beach holidays – Wander With Stella

Phuket Island

Phuket, the bigger Thai Island with a little bit of everything for everyone. Surprising for its beauty, food, beaches and friendly Thai people.

Phuket Island will be the final stop on my journey through Thailand, before I head to Malaysia. The ferry from Koh Lanta to Phuket Island was just long enough, and on the way there was blue sky, fishing trawlers and the well known island of Koh PiPi which I will have to leave for another time.

Old Town Phuket

Of course there is the Island of Phuket, the City of Phuket and “Old Town” Phuket, and it is here that I spent my first four nights on Phuket Island. Lovely walking area, my hotel was not one of the heritage hotels, like the one below, but it was a block from the Old Town as it is known, it was very nice and it had a decent size pool.

Old Town Decked Out for Chinese New Year

Old Town Phuket – Nominated To Be A World Heritage Site

Restaurants Galore Welcoming the Four Corners of the World

Once again I used the Map My City Ap for its walking tour of the old town and it took me the better part of a day to follow their routes. The tour took me past several sites that represent the history and the culture of Phuket that dates back to the 1st C AD. An important port in the trade route between China and Malaysia, it’s early history meant an influx of Chinese. The Golden Dragon is a symbol that is given offerings and prayers in exchange for protection of Phuket and its people.

In spite of it being Old Phuket there are many reminders of a modern art scene as you stroll the streets and turn corners to find the unexpected.

Thanon Dibuk Road is a bustling street of cafes and shops catering to tourist and local alike. A good area to sample Thai food in one of the many cafes.

Perhaps the most outstanding feature of Thanon Dibuk Road is an off shoot called Soi Rommanee Lane a narrow passage of Sino-Portuguese shophouses which were at one time brothels and gambling houses. Ironically this former street of sin, leads to the Wat Mongolian Nimit built in 1880. Mongolian Nimit Wat is a an especially sacred place for gathering and making offerings to the Buddha. Inside the Pagoda style Wat are intricate colourful art works and a giant stupa surrounded by other small stupas and of course a statue of Buddha.

Sino-Portuguese architecture is not unique to Phuket, Southern India and Sri Lanka also have architecture that reflect the melding of European and Asian cultures. These colourful, practical buildings certainly remain as evidence of the Portuguese, Malay and Chinese who came to trade in the 19th Century and earlier. Eventually trade involved the mining and exporting of tin which really meant an economic boom for Phuket. Great care has been taken to restore these buildings to make them as authentic as possible. Most are now shops, bars and restaurants and full of tourists.

Old Alley Ways Between and Under Buildings

Chinese history is very prominent in Old Town Phuket as waves of settlement led to the construction Chinese Schools and Family Shrines that honoured their ancestors.

Shrine of Serene Light to Chinese Ancestors

Surin, Kamala, Pukhet & Karon Beaches

Of course the Island of Phuket is known as a beach holiday destination and offers the choice of several well-known beaches, many of which were sadly destroyed in the 2004 Tsunami in which many people lost their lives.

Surin Beach

I had the chance to explore several of the beaches along the west coast of Phuket Island. I definitely started at one of the top tier beaches, Surin, where the hotels are quite pricy so a short stay was in order.

Kamala Beach

If I had to pick a beach to stay at for an extended period of time it would be Kamala Beach, a little less expensive than Surin and a little less crowded and cluttered than Paton Beach.

Patong Beach

I actually spent more time in a Patong Beach hotel, which wouldn’t have been my first choice but definitely more affordable. I really can’t complain though I was at the far northern end of the beach and my hotel had a balcony with a lovely view of the ocean and the sunsets. It had a cute little pool and the bus that runs between the various beaches stopped right outside my door.

The beach chair renters called me Mama and if I missed a day they wanted to know why. They were really sweet and started to give me discounts.

Sand Under Brilliant White Lights Gives a Nice Green Glow

Patong Hotel Pool – Across a Busy Road to the Beach

Restaurant on the Rocks – Far End of Patong Beach

Karon Beach

I had the good fortune of meeting a Thai woman named Nok and as soon as we started to chat we realized we were practically twins. We enjoy the same hobbies, shared many opinions and even like to travel alone. She worked for a large corporation at one time and was sent all over on business so we even shared a love of travel. She very kindly took a day off work to show me around and one of the places we went was to Karon Beach. We had a picnic there and she had brought along friend chicken and sticky rice. She sat and crocheted under a palm tree while I swam in the surf which was a little wild for me. Knocked me off my feet a couple of times, making it very hard to get out of the water.

One thing I missed on all of the beaches was a variety of folks from different parts of the of the world. All of these beaches are packed with Russians who tend to be an unfriendly bunch that speak little English. It’s said that there are over 100,000 Russians in Thailand at any given time and many wealthy families send their children here to sit out the war against Ukraine. They are given 6 month visas whereas most tourists get 3 months and even have to extend that one after 60 days. Of course the Russians pay more for their visas.

Since there were so many Russians about, I became quite curious about the Russian people and I even googled, “why are Russians so unfriendly”. The answer was interesting in that it’s said to be a cultural phenomena not to waste time and energy on what could be viewed as falsely friendly exchanges. A waste of time, but I also read that they are warm and friendly with those that they know. I was told an old Russian saying “enjoy today, it will only get worse.” Which may explain their somewhat dark moods. Like all people, there are a mix of good and bad but the collective exterior Russian persona is decidedly cold.

In my observation the second largest group are the French and then a smattering of other European groups who tend to be more friendly and speak English for the most part quite well. Don’t get me wrong I don’t expect people to speak English everywhere I go but a little friendly conversation goes a long way when you’re a solo traveller. One sure thing is that Russia and Europe are the bulk of the beach holidayers on Phuket. I met the odd Canadian but surprisingly there are very few travellers from the U.S.A.

Patong and Surrounding Areas

Banga Street & Shopping Zone

Patong, the sin city of Thailand, or one of them anyway, was not nearly as repugnant as I thought it might be. Maybe because I only wandered about in the party zone earlier in the evenings.

Bars & Clubs Along the Famous Banga Street

Most People Seemed Like Tourists not “Customers”

One thing I saw was the photo above. It was little creepy to be honest and to music the “real live” girl in the middle danced about and the two “not so real and not so alive” girls on each end followed her steps. Clever but creepy.

Big Buddha

Once again my friend Nok came and collected me to take me to see the Big Buddha as it is known. Going with a local I learned all kinds of things about the Buddha that I might otherwise have missed.

For one thing, Big Buddha was a commercial venture created for tourism and not a holy site with deep history. It was opened some years ago but due to poor engineering it was not quite completed when the government stepped in and shut it down. I was lucky that on March 3rd I was there for the reopening that followed a two year hiatus. Apparently the engineers failed to determine the impact of the weight of Buddha and during a heavy rainstorm the settling of the monument caused a land slide killing several people living on the slopes below. Supposedly the faults are rectified and the site was deemed safe to reopen. The views from the Big Buddha are amazing.

The monument to Buddha is concrete covered with marble tile. As of yet there is nothing inside the open space beneath the Buddha but that may come.

I was surprised by how much I enjoyed Phuket Island but meeting my Thai friend Nok had a lot to do with that. Between picnics on beaches, shopping trips, massages, tours of Phuket and gifts of crocheted items I appreciated the time she took to spend with me and to answer my many questions. I have extended an invitation for her to visit me in Canada and one day I hope we meet again.

And now off to Langkawi Island via Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia.

Krabi Thailand & Koh Lanta

Krabi….very special province in the South of Thailand….the nearest thing to a 10 for geographical beauty. A gateway to the Island paradise of Koh Lanta.

I’m going to digress here a little bit and tell you about an encounter at the Bangkok airport as I was waiting for my flight to Krabi. I was chatting with a fellow and when I told him I was from Canada, he recounted that he had met our Prime Minister, Mark Carney in his chocolate shop in West Hampstead where Carney lived while he was the Head of the Bank of England. He said that he was a down to earth very pleasant man, curious about peoples jobs, very likeable and would buy white chocolate for his wife, it being her favourite. He said other lovely things about Mark Carney and how lucky we were to have him! It made me feel very proud to be a Canadian.

Krabi Province

Goldilocks Luck

Krabi is a province in Southern Thailand but it is also the name of the provincial capital. Ao Nang Beach is a smaller village about 14 kms from Krabi and Ao Nam Mao Beach is an even smaller village between Krabi and Ao Nang. None of this I fully appreciated when I booked myself into Diamond Beach Resort in Ao Nam Mao. So with a little Goldilocks luck, I stumbled upon something “just right”.

Krabi Province – Krabi Town, Ao Nam Mao, Railay & Ao Nang

Krabi, like Papa Bear, is too big and disheveled for my liking and Ao Nang like Mama Bear has her good points and the beach is lovely and comfortable….but the Ao Nam Mao Beach is like Baby Bear and it is “just right”. In a snug little cove in a small village, my hotel faces out to the Andaman Sea and in the far distance is the island of Koh PiPi.

My Cabin Exterior – Veranda Made for Sitting Out

The Village itself boasts the usual 7-11, food markets, massage parlours and restaurants along the main strip but walking past the main strip and down along the beach are several beachfront hotels with night life, restaurants and nice beachfronts. Much less busy than either Krabi City or Ao Nang.

Closest Swimming Beach to Diamond Resort – 10 minute walk

I did make day trips to each of Krabi City and Ao Nang Beach and was rewarded for my efforts but I did so enjoy my quiet days on Ao Nam Mao beside a lovely pool and staying in a wonderful little Thai style cabin. The staff were friendly and seemed genuinely happy to see you and the room included breakfast which although repetitive was convenient and went until 10:00 am. The Diamond Beach Resort I would recommend even though the beach itself was tidal and mud bottomed, there was a sandy beach just up from the resort.

Saying Farewell to the Breakfast Ladies at Diamond Resort

Ao Nang

My day in Ao Nang was nice, lots of shops, restaurants, souvenirs and tour operators. Everyone seemed relaxed and happy to be crowded together there and the white sandy beach was lovely. It was hard to find a shaded spot but I managed to squeeze in between two groups under a palm and enjoy a few swims. A late dinner at an Indian Restaurant and I made my way back Ao Nam as I came, in a Grab, Asias equivalent to Uber only much cheaper. The drivers here are welcoming but most speak very little English.

Krabi City

I went to Krabi City in the evening for two reasons, one was to visit the night market and the other was to dine at a floating restaurant on the Krabi River. I enjoyed both the market and my dinner but the city itself was not too enthralling.

Railay Beach

Another day trip was to Railay Beach, which I was surprised to see was covered in resorts, shops, restaurants, tour guides, activities etc.. For some reason I thought it was just a day beach destination. It was a lovely trip on a long tail boat which I took from the pier close to my hotel.

Rock Formations Jut Right Out of the Ocean

I spent the day wandering the shops, sunning and swimming and came across my first fellow travellers whose language was English. So many Europeans here, I wish I spoke French or German but I did meet two women from Argentina and so we were able to chat for a while in Spanish. One of the women was a police officer in Buenos Aires.

Koh Lanta

Koh Lanta is a beautiful Island south of Krabi City, accessible by boat or by bridge. I opted for a passenger ferry that left from Ao Nang and landed in Koh Lanta an hour and a half or so later. It was a lovely sunny crossing and although getting on and off the passenger ferries is akin to herding cats, and you’re one of the cats. Bodies and bags are flung about until all and sundry are safely on a pier where the hustle and bustle of Tuk-tuk touts and drivers reel you in for a fast trip out of there to your hotel.

Leaving Krabi

In my case the Lanta Resort which shared a similar name and designation to an Aparthotel some miles past the real Lanta Resort. Oddly it even came up on hotels.com map incorrectly. I was dropped in the wrong place but some lovely ladies in an office helped out, got things sorted and I was on my way back to the proper place.

The main road that runs parallel to the western beaches is one long line of commerce: restaurants, grocery shops, ATM’s, tour companies, bars, massage parlours, moto rentals, tin roofs, and mangy dogs wandering in and out of the ramshackle buildings and the traffic. This initial approach to paradise can be off putting but once you are off the main road and down the avenues to your hotel your view of the place mellows dramatically.

I stayed on what is called Long Beach, which it is. A long strip of white sand beach and aquamarine water lapping the shore in gentle waves. Rarely an inch of land along the beach lies fallow. Most resorts back on to the beach with restaurants, beach loungers, massage huts, cafes and even mini-marts lest you forgot your sun cream.

Multiple tours and activities are available on Koh Lanta including snorkeling trips to smaller island nearby. I opted for a boat tour of the Mangroves which included lunch at a look-out and time to wander the old village of Koh Lanta.

All in all a great stay on Koh Lanta, maybe just not long enough! And now it’s on to Phuket Island to discover the what treasures await me there.

Balkans Part 4 – Self Catered Driving Tour

Self-Driving tour of Croatia with a dip into Bosnia & Herzegovina, a great way to have hotels and car organized for you with the freedom to wander off script between destinations. Seeing what you want to see without joining a tour group. Easy driving and good roads for the most part.

Croatia and Bosnia & Herzegovina

We opted to do a self-catered driving tour arranged by Tour Radar that booked all hotels and of course the car for us. They were very helpful and responsive to texts and emails through their app as we navigated around Croatia and Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Day 1 – Around Dubrovnik

When our driving tour actually commenced we left the Old City and moved to the new city of Dubrovnik. We picked up our car and headed to our first hotel, the Ivka. It was much nicer than we had anticipated and we actually had a suite with sitting room and all the mod-coms. Not your typical tiny euro hotel. Since we had already spent several days in Dubrovnik we used our first day with the car to venture north along the coast. It was a good idea as it gave us an sense of how the roads and the traffic behaved.

Driving north along the coast highway we were gobsmacked by the beauty of the scenery. We stopped frequently to take photos and visited small towns where we would park up and wander about, going where our noses took us. Although it was late October there were some very warm days which meant we had a few swims in the Adriatic.

Day 2 & 3 – Stone & Biograd

Leaving the Ivka hotel and its trendy university neighbourhood filled with locals enjoying pubs and restaurants, we headed north to Biograd. Of course with many stops to ooh and ahh at the scenery and invevitably we strayed off the beaten path a few times and ended up following our noses to Ston.

Ston turned about to be a wonderful side trip. Ston is an ancient town that boasts a Great Wall that in my mind measures up favourably against the Great Wall of China. Originally it was 7000 meters long and had three fortresses and six bastions. Now due to a variety of historical events such as an earthquake and various wars and incursions, it is much smaller but still impressive.

Returning to the main highway we motored on to Biograd that was at the end of a long day of driving, but the toll roads were excellent and had speed limits of 130 kph which helped speed things along. Biograd is meant to be a gateway to some national parks but for us it was a great two night resort stay. The hotel was lovely, right on the water and had the best indoor pool. Since it was late in the season we had the pool to ourselves. It was easy to spend a day wandering around Biograd, a fishing port and resort destination, there were several boat rental agencies offerings from small runabouts to luxurious yachts.

Day 5 – Split

Heading back South we spent a day exploring the Old City of Split. Like Dubrovnik it is a tourist Mecca complete with cruise ships and tour buses. A beautiful city with the same layers of history as the rest of Croatia, Split has some unique architectural features that distinguish it as a clear winner in the old city category.

Diocletian’s Palace is one of the biggest and most complete Roman sites. The Peristyle or square is at the heart of the palace and you can sit on marble steps that surround the crowded square to do some serious people watching.

The square leads to the Vestibule where traditional Dalmatian singing is performed for crowds enjoying the acoustics of the dome.

Traditional Dalmatian singers

Vestibule – Open Dome Acoustically Magic

The amazing things about these very old structures is that they still stand today, made of nearly indestructible materials they stand as they were. That is if they weren’t a victim of events like war or earthquake. (You certainly couldn’t say that about modern building practices.

For a fee in addition to a fee to visit the Cathedral you can climb to the top of the bell tower, up steep and slightly scary stairs with sharp corners and uneven steps. But the views are well worth the climb,

Ukrainian Tour Group of Injured Soldiers

A grim reminder of the war in Ukrainian was a tour group of Ukrainian veterans and their families inside the Old City. Many of the veterans are amputees and it was heartening to see them having some R&R.

Our hotel was not actually in Split itself but just outside in a place called Podstrana. A long narrow community that hugs the coastline and has lovely hotels and beaches. With sunsets like this we didn’t miss staying in the heart of Split and the drive along the seaside was beautiful.

Podstrana Beach – Evidence of Summer Fun, Parked Up For Now

Day 6 – Mostar – Bosnia & Herzegovina

The road to Mostar was another wonderful upward climb with spectacular scenery and viewpoints. And what a warm and welcoming country, maybe not as polished as Croatia but certainly charming, beautiful and interesting nevertheless.

Only a brief overnight foray, but long enough to see Mostar it was perhaps the most enlightening part of the trip in terms of the dissolution of the former Yugoslavia and the strife that arose as a result.

Mostar is another ancient city and one that strongly reflects the different cultural and religious groups that made up this area. Muslims, Christians, Orthodox and I suppose some “others” live among the well preserved ancient buildings and the still war ravaged structures that stand as a witness to the carnage that occurred during the 4 year siege of Mostar.

Many bombed out buildings and structures have been rebuilt like the old bridge that arches over the Neretva river. This most famous of bridges was first built between 1557 and 1566 during the time of Suleiman the Magnificent. The bridge was attacked an fell to the river in 1993 but has been carefully reconstructed and is now a UNESCO world heritage site.

Mosques, baths and a bazaar all built during the reign of the Turks make for a rewarding wander along the upper banks of the river and provide great views back to the famous bridge.

Mosques, Riverside Cafes & Ancient Turkish Bazaar

Day 7 & 8 End of the Line and Back to Dubrovnik

Down we went back to the coast with scenery that is the making of any successful road trip.

We drove on deciding to stop in Slano where the opportunity to have a swim and a walk presented itself.

Returning again to the Hotel Ivka in Dubrovnik we felt the need to see how olives and olive oil are produced and the desk clerk helped us set up a visit to a local farm to see and hear about the history of olive oil production.

So once again we headed out of Dubrovnik on our final day and ventured to the village of Orasac where a friendly gentlemen invited us into his shed where we saw a demonstration of how olive oil was produced before mass production took over.

Neighbours got together and picked olives from groves that were ready, the olives were ground down into a paste inside a stone mortar using horse power. The paste was then pressed in coconut fibre bags and the oil squeezed out. The remains were used for animal feed and compost for gardening. At the end of the day a communal dinner with farm fresh food and local wines made for a day of work and fun.

We were able to walk about the gardens and were given an opportunity to purchase olive oil made there and to taste and of course buy a rose brandy that was delicious.

Still a few hours before we headed to our next destination we visited another charming seaside town Trsteno. A final opportunity to swim in this fairy tale town was a great way to finish the day before the tour part was a wrap and we were once again civilians on our way to Cavtat

The Soccer Ball Pine Cone Tree (Not Really)

Balkans Part 3 – Dubrovnik Croatia

Old City Dubrovnik, crowded but lovely and charming…a collection of history, beautiful architecture, tour groups and proof of every day living in an ancient place.

Taking the bus from Kotor in Montenegro to Dubrovnik in Croatia seems to be the only option if you don’t have a car. It’s a beautiful trip, cheap, but not necessarily punctual, but eventually it gets you there and the border crossing is easy. (By not punctual I mean a 2.5 hour delay in leaving Kotor Bus Station with no information of reason or eta.)

In Dubrovnik, city traffic is bustling, there are loads of cruise ships and bus loads of tourists, all descending on Dubrovnik even this late in the season. In addition, regular flights from all over and ferry boats from other countries arrive constantly making for a very touristy place. Getting around is easy on public transportation and uber is efficient and much cheaper than taxis.

The reason so many people start here is that Dubrovnik is a stunning city — full of history, coastal beauty, and culture. There are so many things to do, depending on your interests and how long you’re staying. It also serves as a gateway to the rest of Croatia with great roadways and ease of driving.

We arrived a few days before our booked driving tour and stayed right in the thrum of things in the Old City behind the ancient walls. Such a wonderful example of how a place can absorb and reflect culture over a thousand years or so. This UNESCO heritage site deserves its designation just for the City Walls.

Walking the City Walls is apparently a must-do in Dubrovnik! The full circuit takes about 1.5–2 hours, offering incredible views over the old town, terracotta roofs, and the Adriatic Sea.

But, I chose to spend my time wandering the Old Town (Stari Grad). Strolling the marble streets of this UNESCO World Heritage site you will come upon the Stradun (main street), leading to the Rector’s Palace, Sponza Palace, a Franciscan Monastery (with Europe’s oldest pharmacy). Not to be left out, the Dubrovnik Cathedral & Treasury all Beautiful Baroque architecture. You can also get a different perspective with a short climb outside the city walls, offering panoramic views and fewer crowds.

Stradum (Main Street) – Franciscan Church & Monastery

Food and drink, claiming local heritage is everywhere in the old city. One place that came highly recommended was Pipi’s and there’s a photo that follows that will enlighten you as to the origin of the name. Eating out was expensive, so to cut costs, we had breakfast in our room and shared dishes that would have been too much food for one.

Cafe’s, Pubs & Restaurant Abound – Fewer Tourists at Night

Pipi’s – Restaurant with Acclaimed Views

Part of the fun of wandering the Old City is visiting the trinket, souvenir and candy shops. During the daytime the streets and shops are so packed with tourists that if you’re a solo traveler you will welcome the night time when the Old City streets empty to some degree and wandering about becomes much more enjoyable.

Game of Thrones

Dubrovnik was King’s Landing in the series that I’m sure most of you have knowledge of. Visit filming sites like Pile Gate, Jesuit Staircase (Cersei’s “walk of shame”), Fort Lovrijenac, and taking a dedicated tour of settings is something many folks enjoy about the Old City.

In spite of its touristy function, the Old City is home to some brave souls who abide not only the crowds but the long treks up to their homes.

Stairway to Residences – Very Steep & Long

Enjoying the back lanes and the artistic touches of the merchants and residents was much more relaxing than navigating the crowds at the established tourist sites. So many quirky and delightful scenarios if you stand still a minute and let your eye wander.

The Western Balkans Part 2

Four days in Kotor, Montenegro….not long enough but so beautiful.

Montenegro

Crossing the border on the bus from Albania was relatively easy and fast given that everyone had to get off the bus and line up at the customs booth.

As soon as you enter Montenegro you are swept away by the majesty of the landscape. If you took a broom and swept up all the beautiful bits of the Western Balkans, making a tidy pile of mountains, oceans and scenic villages, you would have Montenegro. Smaller than the other Balkan countries it is not to be outdone because of its size.

Lots of Beauty Packed Into a Small Country

Small though it is, there wasn’t enough time to do everything on my list. I visited the capital, Podgorica long enough to change buses and then set up in Kotor for four days.

Kotor is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it is a stunning example of a medieval town surrounded by fjord-like mountains. Staying in an air BnB just outside of the old town gave us easy access to the walled city and the quieter residential areas where normal life goes on. Kotor is also the gateway to several other places of interest nearby including Budva, a beach town with an ancient look, historic Cetinje the capital of the mountain region and Durmitor National Park where folks go to hike, raft and ski. Sadly we only got to one, Perast and an ancient Venetian port.

Four Days in Kotor

Day one of four was spent visiting the Old Town, the medieval fort is quite interesting and the layers of history complex and intriguing.

The town is a medieval maze of churches, cafe-lined squares and Venetian palaces. If you were to rummage about in the treasure chest that is Kotor you would come up with one cathedral, five churches and many Venetian piazzas and of course a castle. The whole treasure chest is held together with a wall that didn’t want to quit and so snaked its way up the mountain. If you’d like you can climb it. Be my guest.

There are several museums including a town museum, a maritime museum but if you’re looking for something funky be sure and take in the Cat museum. Not to be missed in my books.

One of Thousands of Cat Illustrations in the Kotor Cat Museum

There is a down-side to Kotor and that is its popularity. Cruise ships and bus tours arrive with without regard to the lone travellers and they flood the old town with clutches of cruisers all crushed behind the flag bearing guide that tours them about in whatever language best suits them.

Besides being famous for the Old Town, Kotor is a beach town and all that that presents in the way of water sports and activities. One of our highlights was a boat tour around the Bay of Kotor that took in man made caves that were used to hide Yugoslavian submarines. Huge and cavernous there are three or four of them along a shore and apparently they are all connected by underground tunnels.

We also circumnavigated an old prison, now a five star hotel in the middle of the bay. Apparently it is thousands of euros per night. Maybe next time.

We also visited and went ashore on the famous islet of Our Lady of the Rocks. Legend has it that somewhere back in the 15th century two fisherman brothers put in on the island and found a statue of the Virgin Mary. Taking it home they awoke to find it gone but upon returning to the island they discovered it had returned to where they found it. And so a miracle was declared a church was built and they all lived happily ever after. Nearby there is another island with and old convent, St. George, but it is not open to the public.

On the way back the captain of our tour boat offered me a chance to take the helm and I couldn’t say no. It was a good tour and a beautiful day, one of the only ones we had in Kotor. It rained heartily a good deal of the time and there was a sick day given a cold likely resulting from fluctuating temperatures.

As mentioned earlier we had time only to visit Perast an ancient Venetian Port that boasts 16 churches and 17 grand palazzi that date back to the 17th century. We arrived during daylight but stayed long enough to enjoy the sunset, have a lovely dinner and wander the streets to see the old buildings prettily lit for the evening.

And so I left Montenegro without having accomplished much of what I’d hoped to, between the weather and a sick day, time and moving about were limited. But Montenegro is definitely on my “hope to return one day list.”

Wanderings in The Western Balkans

Albania a must go destination before it’s fully appreciated and discovered!

Part One – Albania

The Western Balkan are so named as they share the western slopes of the Balkan Mountain Range and include: Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, North Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia and Kosovo. Although my wanderings only took me to Albania, Montenegro, Croatia and a brief visit to Bosnia & Herzegovina, the other Western Balkans countries are said to share the same beautiful landscapes and rich cultural backgrounds. With the exception of Albania and the addition of Slovenia these were the countries that made up the former Yugoslavia.

The Albanian Riviera

When planing to visit Albania from the UK, the cheapest flights were from Gatwick Airport to Corfu in Greece. From Corfu there is an inexpensive ferry to Albania. It is a short crossing of just over an hour to the city of Sarande, the centre of the Albanian “Riviera”.

The Albanian “riviera” is rapidly becoming known for its beautiful beaches and has become an alternative to other more crowded and expensive European beach destinations. As a result it attracts beach party enthusiasts and the many beautiful beaches that extend from Vlore in the North to Ksamil in the South are said to be a beach lovers paradise, and with the exception of Ksamil which we soon found out, can be quite affordable.

Sarande the Gateway to the Albanian Riviera

Having read that the beaches got nicer south of Sarande we headed for Ksamil. The hotel and beach scene there left a lot to be desired. The Lonely Planet guide says that it twice as expensive as the other Albanian Riviera spots.

Ksamil is an interesting place and even though it was end of season the place was still relatively crowded but we managed a soak in the sun and a swim in the sea during our overnight stay.

Enjoying Agri-tourism in Albania

After a night in Ksamil, we took a local bus back to Sarande and caught an intercity bus to Durre, a busy coastal port town that deserved more time than we could give it. We were in Durre long enough to pick up a rental car.

There are definitely some things that I would recommend doing differently in Albania. One would be to have more that three or four days, the distances are longer than expected given that buses are the only mode of inter-city travel. The schedules you find on-line don’t always match up with reality and although the buses are inexpensive they are intermittent and sometimes slow going.

Once we realized the limitations of bus travel in Albania, we quickly regrouped and decided to focus on a growing sector of Albanian tourism, that of Agritourism, which given its remote aspect, justified the rental car.

There are many options to choose from but most of the farms offer accommodation, farm to table cuisines, local wines and beautiful scenery.

We loved our two nights at the “Hani I Leks” Torshavn Lezhe farm. Gorgeous setting with amazing sunsets, cozy cabin and farm to table meals. Dinner the first night was a pre-set menu with appetizers that never quit coming: three cheeses, olives, bread, marinated vegetables, an entire family sized bowl of tossed green salad, grapes, yogurt dips etc, followed by the main course of lamb, slow roasted fall off the bone! No room for the desert after all of that.

Breakfasts at the farm were just as elaborate as the dinners. Starting with deep fried bannock-like fritters drizzled with honey, followed by the main course of tomatoes, cucumbers, eggs, bread, sweet buns, and a rolled crepe filled with Nutella. All this accompanied by yogurt and a sweet white porridge. Then just when you can’t eat another bite, comes breakfast desert, flans and grapes. It seems impossible to starve in Albania!

Having the car to explore the area was really a good idea. We’ve been finding that the average price for a taxi or a car/driver is close to 40 CAD and that’s for short distances, making the renting of a car a much cheaper alternative, and gave us much more freedom to get out into the countryside.

Thanksgiving’s Coming

Being up in the mountains meant it was cooler in the evenings and the first night there was an impressive thunder storm which made our cozy cabin more welcoming. The AGRO-TURIZEM thing is really the way to go if you want to experience the countryside and overall the roads aren’t too bad. The second night was a sunset delight, moon rising and star watching with a bottle of Albanian red on a patio suspended over the valley.

Shengjin a Seaside Town

We spent our exploration day cruising through small towns wending our way down to the beach town of Shengjin on the ocean side of Lethe. Our kind of place. If I went back to Albania and wanted beach time I would head here. Lovely clear water, more locals (fewer party people) and regular prices. Easy to rent a chaise and umbrella and have a good swim.

The Lezhe area has several AGRO-TURIZEM places and we visited one close by our own for a late lunch. It had gotten high ratings which as we discovered were well deserved. The Mrizi i Zanave farm is a busy place filled with areas of interests: flower gardens, children’s play areas, livestock and a market store full of farm made treats. There is no menu, as you are served only what is fresh and prepared in the kitchen. A welcome drink of rose water is followed by at least five or six plates of appetizers that crossed our table before the main of baby goat arrived. Albanian house wines are delicious and for this meal we tried a white. The appetizers were really varied between grilled, marinated and fresh vegetables, accompanied by three types of cheeses and a type of very tasty prosciutto.

The place was quite large and being a farm had vineyards, wheat crops and the animals including goats that nibbled away at a corn crib about twenty feet heigh. We passed several corn fields that had clearly “finished” for the year so we missed corn season but it seems that much of it is used for animal feed.

Mountains, valleys, the Adriatic Sea and beautiful skies are the hallmarks of Albania. Being out of the cities and on the winding country roads, passing small villages, crossing narrow bridges over meandering streams and rivers makes for a very pretty passing. Country settings give you a better sense of life for average Albanians who are striving to gain pace with the rest of Europe.

Albanian History

Always when I wander I wonder about the original peoples of a region and the history that followed. Clearly Albania evolved through many time periods each one influencing language, architecture, art, politics, economics and cultural beliefs.

One of the most recent regimes occurred between 1945 to 1992. It was an oppressive, Stalinist regime led by Enver Hoxha, marked by “extreme isolationism, pervasive surveillance, and economic neglect.”Hoxha and his party controlled all aspects of life, executing thousands and imprisoning tens of thousands, while shifting alliances from the Soviet Union to China before completely isolating itself. The regime ultimately collapsed amid economic crisis in 1990, leading to the establishment of a democratic state that is now working to join the European Union. One of the lasting reminders of the regime is thousands of cement bunkers built across the country with the goal of having one for every man.

Albania is now gaining ground economically which some hope will end in entry to the European Union. The LEK not the Euro is the currency and be warned that it is not easily exchanged to other currencies once you leave the country.

Four brief days in Albania was just a teaser. There are so many historic and interesting sites that we had to pass by as we made our way by bus to Montenegro. I’ve seen enough though to peak my interest and will hope to return one day with several more days and a full-time car to go deeper on this interesting country.

Old Town Phuket

Surin, Kamala, Pukhet & Karon Beaches

Surin Beach

Kamala Beach

Patong Beach

Karon Beach

Patong and Surrounding Areas

Banga Street & Shopping Zone

Big Buddha

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Krabi Province

Koh Lanta

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Game of Thrones

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Montenegro

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The Albanian Riviera

Enjoying Agri-tourism in Albania

Shengjin a Seaside Town

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