dining – Wander With Stella

The Western Balkans Part 2

Four days in Kotor, Montenegro….not long enough but so beautiful.

Montenegro

Crossing the border on the bus from Albania was relatively easy and fast given that everyone had to get off the bus and line up at the customs booth.

As soon as you enter Montenegro you are swept away by the majesty of the landscape. If you took a broom and swept up all the beautiful bits of the Western Balkans, making a tidy pile of mountains, oceans and scenic villages, you would have Montenegro. Smaller than the other Balkan countries it is not to be outdone because of its size.

Lots of Beauty Packed Into a Small Country

Small though it is, there wasn’t enough time to do everything on my list. I visited the capital, Podgorica long enough to change buses and then set up in Kotor for four days.

Kotor is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it is a stunning example of a medieval town surrounded by fjord-like mountains. Staying in an air BnB just outside of the old town gave us easy access to the walled city and the quieter residential areas where normal life goes on. Kotor is also the gateway to several other places of interest nearby including Budva, a beach town with an ancient look, historic Cetinje the capital of the mountain region and Durmitor National Park where folks go to hike, raft and ski. Sadly we only got to one, Perast and an ancient Venetian port.

Four Days in Kotor

Day one of four was spent visiting the Old Town, the medieval fort is quite interesting and the layers of history complex and intriguing.

The town is a medieval maze of churches, cafe-lined squares and Venetian palaces. If you were to rummage about in the treasure chest that is Kotor you would come up with one cathedral, five churches and many Venetian piazzas and of course a castle. The whole treasure chest is held together with a wall that didn’t want to quit and so snaked its way up the mountain. If you’d like you can climb it. Be my guest.

There are several museums including a town museum, a maritime museum but if you’re looking for something funky be sure and take in the Cat museum. Not to be missed in my books.

One of Thousands of Cat Illustrations in the Kotor Cat Museum

There is a down-side to Kotor and that is its popularity. Cruise ships and bus tours arrive with without regard to the lone travellers and they flood the old town with clutches of cruisers all crushed behind the flag bearing guide that tours them about in whatever language best suits them.

Besides being famous for the Old Town, Kotor is a beach town and all that that presents in the way of water sports and activities. One of our highlights was a boat tour around the Bay of Kotor that took in man made caves that were used to hide Yugoslavian submarines. Huge and cavernous there are three or four of them along a shore and apparently they are all connected by underground tunnels.

We also circumnavigated an old prison, now a five star hotel in the middle of the bay. Apparently it is thousands of euros per night. Maybe next time.

We also visited and went ashore on the famous islet of Our Lady of the Rocks. Legend has it that somewhere back in the 15th century two fisherman brothers put in on the island and found a statue of the Virgin Mary. Taking it home they awoke to find it gone but upon returning to the island they discovered it had returned to where they found it. And so a miracle was declared a church was built and they all lived happily ever after. Nearby there is another island with and old convent, St. George, but it is not open to the public.

On the way back the captain of our tour boat offered me a chance to take the helm and I couldn’t say no. It was a good tour and a beautiful day, one of the only ones we had in Kotor. It rained heartily a good deal of the time and there was a sick day given a cold likely resulting from fluctuating temperatures.

As mentioned earlier we had time only to visit Perast an ancient Venetian Port that boasts 16 churches and 17 grand palazzi that date back to the 17th century. We arrived during daylight but stayed long enough to enjoy the sunset, have a lovely dinner and wander the streets to see the old buildings prettily lit for the evening.

And so I left Montenegro without having accomplished much of what I’d hoped to, between the weather and a sick day, time and moving about were limited. But Montenegro is definitely on my “hope to return one day list.”

Wanderings in The Western Balkans

Albania a must go destination before it’s fully appreciated and discovered!

Part One – Albania

The Western Balkan are so named as they share the western slopes of the Balkan Mountain Range and include: Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, North Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia and Kosovo. Although my wanderings only took me to Albania, Montenegro, Croatia and a brief visit to Bosnia & Herzegovina, the other Western Balkans countries are said to share the same beautiful landscapes and rich cultural backgrounds. With the exception of Albania and the addition of Slovenia these were the countries that made up the former Yugoslavia.

The Albanian Riviera

When planing to visit Albania from the UK, the cheapest flights were from Gatwick Airport to Corfu in Greece. From Corfu there is an inexpensive ferry to Albania. It is a short crossing of just over an hour to the city of Sarande, the centre of the Albanian “Riviera”.

The Albanian “riviera” is rapidly becoming known for its beautiful beaches and has become an alternative to other more crowded and expensive European beach destinations. As a result it attracts beach party enthusiasts and the many beautiful beaches that extend from Vlore in the North to Ksamil in the South are said to be a beach lovers paradise, and with the exception of Ksamil which we soon found out, can be quite affordable.

Sarande the Gateway to the Albanian Riviera

Having read that the beaches got nicer south of Sarande we headed for Ksamil. The hotel and beach scene there left a lot to be desired. The Lonely Planet guide says that it twice as expensive as the other Albanian Riviera spots.

Ksamil is an interesting place and even though it was end of season the place was still relatively crowded but we managed a soak in the sun and a swim in the sea during our overnight stay.

Enjoying Agri-tourism in Albania

After a night in Ksamil, we took a local bus back to Sarande and caught an intercity bus to Durre, a busy coastal port town that deserved more time than we could give it. We were in Durre long enough to pick up a rental car.

There are definitely some things that I would recommend doing differently in Albania. One would be to have more that three or four days, the distances are longer than expected given that buses are the only mode of inter-city travel. The schedules you find on-line don’t always match up with reality and although the buses are inexpensive they are intermittent and sometimes slow going.

Once we realized the limitations of bus travel in Albania, we quickly regrouped and decided to focus on a growing sector of Albanian tourism, that of Agritourism, which given its remote aspect, justified the rental car.

There are many options to choose from but most of the farms offer accommodation, farm to table cuisines, local wines and beautiful scenery.

We loved our two nights at the “Hani I Leks” Torshavn Lezhe farm. Gorgeous setting with amazing sunsets, cozy cabin and farm to table meals. Dinner the first night was a pre-set menu with appetizers that never quit coming: three cheeses, olives, bread, marinated vegetables, an entire family sized bowl of tossed green salad, grapes, yogurt dips etc, followed by the main course of lamb, slow roasted fall off the bone! No room for the desert after all of that.

Breakfasts at the farm were just as elaborate as the dinners. Starting with deep fried bannock-like fritters drizzled with honey, followed by the main course of tomatoes, cucumbers, eggs, bread, sweet buns, and a rolled crepe filled with Nutella. All this accompanied by yogurt and a sweet white porridge. Then just when you can’t eat another bite, comes breakfast desert, flans and grapes. It seems impossible to starve in Albania!

Having the car to explore the area was really a good idea. We’ve been finding that the average price for a taxi or a car/driver is close to 40 CAD and that’s for short distances, making the renting of a car a much cheaper alternative, and gave us much more freedom to get out into the countryside.

Thanksgiving’s Coming

Being up in the mountains meant it was cooler in the evenings and the first night there was an impressive thunder storm which made our cozy cabin more welcoming. The AGRO-TURIZEM thing is really the way to go if you want to experience the countryside and overall the roads aren’t too bad. The second night was a sunset delight, moon rising and star watching with a bottle of Albanian red on a patio suspended over the valley.

Shengjin a Seaside Town

We spent our exploration day cruising through small towns wending our way down to the beach town of Shengjin on the ocean side of Lethe. Our kind of place. If I went back to Albania and wanted beach time I would head here. Lovely clear water, more locals (fewer party people) and regular prices. Easy to rent a chaise and umbrella and have a good swim.

The Lezhe area has several AGRO-TURIZEM places and we visited one close by our own for a late lunch. It had gotten high ratings which as we discovered were well deserved. The Mrizi i Zanave farm is a busy place filled with areas of interests: flower gardens, children’s play areas, livestock and a market store full of farm made treats. There is no menu, as you are served only what is fresh and prepared in the kitchen. A welcome drink of rose water is followed by at least five or six plates of appetizers that crossed our table before the main of baby goat arrived. Albanian house wines are delicious and for this meal we tried a white. The appetizers were really varied between grilled, marinated and fresh vegetables, accompanied by three types of cheeses and a type of very tasty prosciutto.

The place was quite large and being a farm had vineyards, wheat crops and the animals including goats that nibbled away at a corn crib about twenty feet heigh. We passed several corn fields that had clearly “finished” for the year so we missed corn season but it seems that much of it is used for animal feed.

Mountains, valleys, the Adriatic Sea and beautiful skies are the hallmarks of Albania. Being out of the cities and on the winding country roads, passing small villages, crossing narrow bridges over meandering streams and rivers makes for a very pretty passing. Country settings give you a better sense of life for average Albanians who are striving to gain pace with the rest of Europe.

Albanian History

Always when I wander I wonder about the original peoples of a region and the history that followed. Clearly Albania evolved through many time periods each one influencing language, architecture, art, politics, economics and cultural beliefs.

One of the most recent regimes occurred between 1945 to 1992. It was an oppressive, Stalinist regime led by Enver Hoxha, marked by “extreme isolationism, pervasive surveillance, and economic neglect.”Hoxha and his party controlled all aspects of life, executing thousands and imprisoning tens of thousands, while shifting alliances from the Soviet Union to China before completely isolating itself. The regime ultimately collapsed amid economic crisis in 1990, leading to the establishment of a democratic state that is now working to join the European Union. One of the lasting reminders of the regime is thousands of cement bunkers built across the country with the goal of having one for every man.

Albania is now gaining ground economically which some hope will end in entry to the European Union. The LEK not the Euro is the currency and be warned that it is not easily exchanged to other currencies once you leave the country.

Four brief days in Albania was just a teaser. There are so many historic and interesting sites that we had to pass by as we made our way by bus to Montenegro. I’ve seen enough though to peak my interest and will hope to return one day with several more days and a full-time car to go deeper on this interesting country.

Frida Spotting of Course – I Rarely Don’t See Her Wherever I Go

BELIZE IT…A Central American Countries Slogan

Belize will soon be a fond memory of a country of happy, friendly people…..

Getting from Bacalar Mexico to Belize involved a 12 plus hour day of vans and local buses. Adrenalina tours – Guatemala, does hotel pick-ups in Bacalar and one van took us as far as the Belize Border where we cleared customs and boarded another van on the Belize side that took us to Belmopan the capital of Belize, but not before we changed vans again in Belize City.

Stopping in Belize City was somewhat of a surprise as we thought our route skirted the city and went directly to Belmopan. The bus depot shares space with the San Pedro Water Taxi dock where strangely, we were treated to a Chinese New Years Dragon Dance and fire cracker display. Loud and smokey we took refuge behind any available nose covering while simultaneously using our fingers as ear protection against the fireworks.

In Belmopan, the capital, it was a several hour wait for a local bus that would take us to Seine Bight our final destination. With the first instruction being “get off at the Jaguar Lanes” the driver and his helper seemed to know exactly where we were headed. The bus loaded with locals was comfortable and part way across the Hummingbird Highway to the coast a woman boarded selling Cinnamon bread and of course a purchase was made. Good thing as it was breakfast the next morning. Passing along the highway you are able to see the Maya mountain area of green fields, plantations and country homes. Beautiful scenery.

By the time the bus reached the “Jaguar Lanes” it was dark and we followed our next instruction which was walk to the junction turn left and keep coming. Even in the dark our noses didn’t fail us and there, just ahead “The Lazy Crab”.

Two prefabricated cabins along with the owners larger home, hover around a pool on a freshly planted garden which one day will provide some much needed shade. Palms and tropical flowering plants are planted in a sand soil which is raked regularly by the gardener.

Our unit “The Sea Horse” is small but comfortable and the front porch gives us another room for outdoor living. The prefabs are made by the local Mennonites and one day two of them came by with a drone to make a promotional video to attract other potential buyers. In this post-covid world it took all three of us to cover the cost of a month in Belize. What a difference from pre-covid days.

One Bedroom, One Bath and Day Bed (Mine)

The Belizean dollar declares itself permanently tied to the American dollar by half, using “pegging” as a means of stabilizing currency. American dollars come as change or you are welcome to pay with them.

Where Are We?

We are on a spit of land that runs north to south along the Caribbean coast of Belize and it is riddled with channels and lagoons on its backside and beautiful sand beaches on its front. Major developments mainly north of Seine Bight are springing up and the wealthy who can afford to are building monstrously big houses in stark contrast to the homes of the locals. Lots of foreign built and owned properties are for sale everywhere you look. Is it speculation, buyers remorse or need or want to repatriate?

Our hosts were helpful in providing information regarding distances, restaurants, beaches and groceries. So we set about discovering our neighbourhood. We are some distance from Placencia which was somewhat of a surprise. The buses and vans are hard to nail down as schedules are allusive and designated stops non-existent but after a few days we worked out how to get into Placencia and back but chose to do most of our shopping here at Maya Beach or further on down the road in Seine Bight.

A cab to Placencia and back costs as much as $60. USD so finding local transport is essential. The Isthmus narrows and widens as it wends its way south to Placencia and is crisscrossed by canals and lagoons, sometimes you can see water on both sides of the isthmus.

Although we have ventured into Placencia a few times and we have taken two tours we have spent most of our time at Maya Beach. It has become our ‘hood’. We have a pub, restaurant, pool hall and bowling alley “all in one” at the end of our lane. Our favourite beach which we have dubbed “first beach” after Stanley Park’s numbered beaches is a ten minute walk and even one drink will buy you a full day of beach, chaise long, pool and palm trees. Their menu is small but the food is good and the shrimp salad is repeat worthy.

Palms Overhead Shade at the Ceiba Beach Resort

Just a little further along the beach are second and third beach, otherwise known as the Green Parrot and Mangos. Similar to the Ceiba Resort, you can use the beach and chairs but not necessarily the pool. If you come to Belize for the beach and you can afford it Maya Beach is a great area and in spite of a large expat community, we’ve been able to meet many of the locals at Jaguar Lanes and other places. Belizeans are very friendly and it’s not unusual to be greeted warmly and even welcomed to the country as I was by an older gentleman in the Belmopan bus station.

In a short span of time it is easy to encounter someone from one of the three main Belizean groups of people. The Creole are decedants of African slaves and Europeans and they speak their own unique and local variation of English. Mestizo is the name given to people with Maya and Spanish ancestry and they generally speak Spanish. The Maya are a small group who claim direct decendancy and speak Maya. English is the official language of Belize as a former British colony, but I read that 64% Belizeans speak all the languages.

Seine Bight – Closest Bigger Shopping Stop

Since we were staying a month, groceries and home-cooking was warranted and the next biggest shopping opportunities were in Seine Bight. Of course getting there was a bit of a challenge but at least a taxi ride back when you’re laden with bags is affordable. The town itself is interesting and appears to be a Creole settlement.

Which Tour to Pick….so much to do!

Diving, sailing, snorkeling, fishing, caving, Maya ruins, wildlife and hiking is a start to what you can consider while in Belize.

Snorkeling on the Great Belizean Barrier Reef

Fortunately, we stumbled across a small tour office on our way to Maya Beach one day and met the tour guide Evers. He operates small tours, which are best, and we booked to go snorkeling with him out on the Great Belize Coral Reef. The second largest next to the Australian Great Barrier Reef, it is heaven for divers and snorkelers alike.

The tour price included transport to Placencia where we launched off to visit the Silk Caye. It was quite a long boat trip but very enjoyable, windy but sunny and the colour of the water was spectacular. Ever was knowledgeable and was both our tour and snorkelling guide, pointing out various underwater species and making sure we were all huddled safely together like the fish we were looking at.

Silk Caye boasts more than 35 species of fish including whale sharks, barracudas, snappers, shrimp and many more. There is a huge variety of coral. All different sizes and shapes it is well worth the efforts to save this endangered reef, now declared a World Heritage Sight. My underwater camera bag failed me and none of my photos give snorkeling here there due.

Lots of Conch Shells Laying on the Sea Floor

There were only five of us which made for lots of time for discussion and questions. The coral reef around Silk Caye was impressive, although earth tones mainly, the variety of coral was amazing and Ever had brought along a laminated sheet listing all the various kinds. Plenty of fish of brilliant colours and the odd lobster too. We also had lunch on Silk Caye which is a national marine reserve and then we were off to visit turtles, manta rays, sharks and various fish further out on the reef.

Homeward bound we stopped at Ray Caye, a private resort island that allows non-guests to eat, drink, use their pool and even zip down their water slide at the end of a double decker pier. Lots of fun and a good way to end the day before heading back to Placencia.

Cave Tubing

Tour Two was a cave-tubing adventure north of Maya Beach so we got to see a whole new area. Cave Bransh or Nohoch Che’en is one of the top 10 things to do in Belize and it is was a lot of fun but there were hoards of people, but Ever kept us all together in our small group of four and even offered us a look at Hopkins a town on the way back to the Isthmus.

Hopkins Another Beach Town

Hopkins, on the northern part of the Isthmus is really cool and is another potential place to stay if you’re beaching it but especially good for easy access to fishing and the Great Belizean Reef.

Placencia

Placencia is a delightful hodgepodge of beachfront restaurants bars, buildings on stilts and a central boardwalk that runs the length of the town. If you’re after shopping and looking for souvenirs it is a great place to wander and chat with the locals. The Maya have a firm grip on the souvenir market, selling beaded goods, hats, baskets and woven goods. Not only are they sold in the shops in Placencia you can also buy them from the lovely Maya women who walk the beaches plying their wares in the least aggressive or offensive way possible. I have purchased some small baskets and some great local hot sauces. I really like the carved wooden bowls and figurines, shiny and smooth to the touch.

An interesting art gallery revealed another ethnic group that calls Belize home. The city of Dangriga on the north end of the Isthmus is home to the Garifuna, a cultural and ethnic group, descendants of shipwrecked slaves and native Caribs. The Garifuna have adopted the Carib language but kept their African musical and religious traditions reflected in the art in this gallery.

Signage is ramshackle and beachy and as a perfect compliment, buildings are brightly coloured, many raised up on stilts. There are also larger well tended colonial looking houses with beach front property right in the heart of town.

Along the boardwalk are various restaurants that provide beach side seating, pools and of course food. It’s such a great idea to allow access to the beach and pools in exchange for consuming lunch and/or drinks. I’ve been in other countries where you pay for the use of the property on top of the restaurant bill.

Homeward Bound

The month of February is done and as all good things must end, I am wending my way home to Vancouver Island. First a lovely over the water flight from Placencia to Belize City for an overnight stay and now waiting to board flight to Denver to connect to flight for Vancouver.

Belize will soon be a fond memory of a country of happy, friendly people, who at least in the tourism sector, are working hard to improve their lives and to capitalize on the money pouring into their country with foreigners looking for a little piece of paradise. I have loved how the various peoples of Belize blend and mix together and learn each other’s languages. In spite of poverty, income disparities and being an emerging and developing nation, I have witnessed their pride in their country and fully applaud their desire to make Belize a country to be admired and acknowledged as a liveable and respected destination.

Budapest for the Christmas Markets

As I was going to be in England and a friend mentioned Budapest for the Christmas Markets, I could hardly say no. I had never been to Hungary and it had long been on my list of places to visit. Just over a two hour flight from Heathrow we arrived late in the day and went by taxi to our air BnB in District V, the central area of Budapest.

As an introduction to the city we used the Hop on Hop off Bus which offered a perfect opportunity to have an overall view of the city, giving us ideas of what we wanted to make a point of getting back to for a longer look.

Written up as the most Beautiful Restaurant in the World but too long a line up!

Our BnB location was within walk distance of the St Stephen’s Basilica Christmas Market which in the end was our favourite of the markets. Seemed a little less crowded than some others, the food was wonderful and there was a light show set to the Nutcracker Suite beamed onto the front of the Basilica. Named after Stephen, the first King of Hungary, it is the largest church in Hungary and home to one of King Stephen’s mummified hands.

Love the sellers at the a Christmas Markets

The stalls were full of Hungarian Christmas goodies and crafts and sitting outdoors at picnic style benches and tables was not the least unpleasant in spite of the chill in the air.

Everything from candy to honey, home decor and the famous melt in your mouth chimney cakes made fresh at every market

The Danube River divides the Pest and Buda sides of Budapest and several bridges span the river, dotted with cruise boats and especially pretty at night. On the Pest side which is where we stayed are some of the sights we visited including the impressive Parliament Buildings, the Grand Market Hall, the Jewish Quarter surrounding the Dohány Street Synagogue and the museum dedicated to the memory of Holocaust victims.

One of many squares lit up for Christmas

The Jewish museum is well worth the visit, although it is gut wrenching to hear some of the stories and view the photos from Budapest during WW11, it is a necessary reminder, especially timely today. Visitors from all over and from all religions appear to be drawn to the Synagoue and Museum and certainly the interior of the synagogue is very impressive. The streets around the synagogue are great to wander after a visit and give you an idea of the density of Jewish population in that area at one time.

The National Museum of Hungary is housed in a stately palace. It is a vivid account to the lengthy and turbulent history of Hungary from the earliest of times to the present day and while there we took in a special exhibit called Brides of Hungary, a tribute to women in different time periods and the dresses that reflected the style of various decades. With feminist leanings it went beyond fashion and provided glimpse into the lives of women over time.

Bride’s Exhibit

The Grand Market is just that, huge, multi-layered and full of Hungarian art, craft, food, clothing, accessories and of course at this time of year Christmas gifts. Well worth a wander and not to be missed, the neighbourhood around the market is great for a wander as well.

On the Buda side of the Danube we visited Buda castle by taking the beautiful wooden funicular up the side of the hill to the castle itself. At the top we had a great view of the city on both sides of the river and were able to wander back to our hotel across the Chain Bridge, so names for the chains it hangs from.

Also on the Buda side of the river we visited the Gellert Thermal bath, one of many that make Budapest a draw for their healing properties. Built in the Art Nouveau style between 1912 and 1918, it has several hot baths each labeled with their particular temperature, a massive numbers of lockers, and spa services including massage. A bit of a maze and challenging to navigate it was a very relaxing way to spend a few hours.

The food in Budapest deserves special recognition and we were able to sample several notably Hungarian dishes and drinks including. As you can imagine Goulash or Gulyas was on most restaurant menus and served at the Christmas markets as well. A popular dish it is a hearty and warm stew filled with beef, paprika, onions and potatoes and sometimes served with spetzel like noodles. Delicious and warming especially outside at night.

Chicken paprikas (Csirke Paprikas) is astonishingly red because of the amount of sweet paprika mixed with tomatoes, garlic and sweet peppers in. Sour cream is added and delicious chewy dumplings make the dish very filling. A must try in Budapest in.

Of course the signature dish of Hungary is Goulash and nothing beats a warm bowl at an outdoor market.

We also indulged in Chimney Cakes which we saw cooked over barbecue coals at one market and in a special rotisserie like oven at another market. A doughnut like batter is wrapped around a wooden form and rotated over heat until done, sprinkled with sugar while it cooks gives a cartelized effect and when removed from the wooden form this confection stand erect like a chimney. Quite delicious and definitely shareable.

Meat Pancakes (Hortobagyi Palacsinta) are thin pancakes filled with savoury chicken or beef minced into small pieces. Once filled the pancakes are rolled into burrito like shapes and baked and then covered with a paprika sauce and of course a dollop of sour cream. Mmmmm

Stuffed Cabbage Leaves (Toltott Kaposzta) the Hungarian cabbage roll is made from cooked, pickled cabbage and filled with minced pork, paprika (of course) and rice. When I ordered this dish at a Christmas market it came with sausage and grilled vegetables and went down well with mulled wine.

A very popular dish with the Hungarians was a deep-fried flat bread (Langos), crispy on the outside while soft on the inside, it is sprinkled with cheese and topped off with sour cream. Looked delicious but one can only eat so much so I didn’t have the room to try it.

I hope to visit Hungary again when I have more time and I’m able to see other parts of the country. It has a quietness about it that you don’t find in other European Capitals. People seem less hurried and definitely friendlier, especially the people who work with tourists like myself. Until I return Budapest, keep your magic alive.

London

London at Christmas…..a great time to visit.

For me, there is no place like a big city before Christmas kicks off, and London is no slouch when it comes to lighting up for the festive season. Everywhere you turn there are trees, streets, buildings and anything else that doesn’t move, festooned with bright lights, making even the usual things to do all the more enjoyable.

Sights and Sounds of London with Christmas Flair

Luckily, I spent the first few nights in Kensington at the Holiday Inn. I say luckily because this was a complimentary upgrade from Hotels.com as my original hotel (not nearly as swank), was overbooked. A lovely predicament….my room was big by London standards, indeed I could have swung a cat by the tail in a complete circle without touching a wall. It even had a comfortable queen size bed and was in a great location. Shops, restaurants, the underground and great wandering, all right out side my door. I’m oddly happy that it gets dark in pre-Christmas London, because the holiday lights are fantastic.

Staying in Kensington I was close to Hyde Park so I took in the Queen Victoria exhibits celebrating the 200th anniversary of her birth in Kensington Palace. There were exhibits of her toys including a huge dollhouse and puppet theatre. Of course it sounds lovely to have it all and live in a palace but at what cost to personal freedom. Her history as a grownup was covered in the the crown exhibition including jewels (pretty ornate) and her story as a woman (apparently she opposed the franchise for women), mother (lots of children), wife (adored Albert by all accounts) and monarch (long did she reign).

Using both the internet and TKTS ticket both in Leicester Square (best place to get discounted same day tickets), I was able to see a number of productions. In a small theatre just off Leicester Square I saw Miss Kiddy and the Cads, the ultimate in vintage sophistication but with a modern twist giving a jazz beat to contemporary hit tunes. The audience included a couple of avid fans that never miss a Miss Kiddy show, one of whom came miles to see her. Lots of fun.

In contrast, the next night I ventured out to the Royal Albert Hall for the BT Christmas Concert featuring the Royal Symphony Orchestra with the BT choir and the London Community Gospel choir which rocked the house. People were on their feet singing, dancing and clapping, “taken to church” by the great vocals.

Seeing Hamilton in the Victoria Palace Theatre, was a highlight. Had great seats 4 rows from the stage so could see the details of the action. A real homage to the long forgotten roll of Blacks in gaining independence from England and in the writing of the US constitution.

A new musical called & Juliet was playing at the Shaftesbury and I got to witness William Shakespeare and his wife Anne Hathaway attempting to sort out their flagging marriage by cowriting a very different ending to the Romeo and Juliet. Lots of fun and quirky twists and best of all the music was chosen from contemporary hits sung to complement the story line which caused lots of laughter in the audience. Picture Juliet (not dead) singing I’m On Fire. And to cap off a perfect evening, just wandering my way through the West End, China Town and surrounding streets to and from the theatre was pleasure in itself.

Prior to heading to St. Martin’s in the Field, I was given a personal tour of the palatial Foreign Office, built to impress, by a young friend who works there. A lovely young woman, Liz and I even had a peek at No. 10 Downing as we exited the Foreign Office before heading to dine in the Crypt of St. Marin’s. St. Martin’s is another personal favourite thing to do, the acoustics are fantastic and the world class Academy of St. Martin’s performed Vivaldi’s “Winter” and were joined by a children’s choir for Christmas Carols. As at Royal Albert Hall the audience was invited to sing-along at least part of the time. London audiences love this participation element and you’d never know they had just experienced a terrorist attack on London bridge or that the UK was on the brink of a national election that might see them exit the EU. (We all know the results as I edit)

Close to St. Martin’s is Covent Garden with the Royal Opera House, Christmas markets and restaurants and where opera singers are the buskers. Cold but relatively clear, it was a good night to wander the streets all the way from Covent Garden, through Trafalgar Square, Up Regent Street and along to Oxford Circus.

Last accommodation was a tube ride away from Kensington on the Piccadilly Line to Finsbury Park where I met up with friends Dawn & Craig in a rented air BnB. Not the fanciest digs but a basic two bedroom flat with a kitchen was fine as we spent most of our time out and about. A trip to the Christmas Market on the Southbank, Harrods and Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park were great fun.

No trip to London is complete without visiting the zebra cross-walk where the Beatles famously strode their way to the Abbey Road Recording Studio. Close by is the Regent Canal and Little Venice where you can take a longboat to Camden Locks and the market and shops that were home to punk rockers but are now mainly touristy. Packed with Christmas shoppers it was cheek to jowl on the tube back to the flat.

Saying goodbye to Dawn and Craig (they left for Scotland) and I headed out to a hotel close to Heathrow for a couple of nights before I fly off to Bangkok. Another London chapter concludes!

Montenegro

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The Albanian Riviera

Enjoying Agri-tourism in Albania

Shengjin a Seaside Town

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Where Are We?

Seine Bight – Closest Bigger Shopping Stop

Which Tour to Pick….so much to do!

Placencia

Homeward Bound

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Share this: WanderwithStella

Share this: WanderwithStella