Sri Lanka Part Two

Safari adventure in Yala National Park

Yala National Park Safari & Tissa Lake

Unawatuna to Tissawara

Another car and driver hired through our hotel in Unawatuna, we headed out to stay on Tissa Lake situated nearby Yala National Park. We were greatly surprised by our lovely hotel and were so happy with the view from our balcony and the fact that we had booked three nights.

First order of business was to check out the pool with its view over Tissa Lake. Finding it quite satisfactory we went about the business of booking a full day Safari in Yala Park.

Our Safari started at 5:00 am and we were up and ready when our driver & spotter showed up in their well used truck, the back of which was converted into three rows of seats stolen from old cars and welded securely onto the bed of the truck. A roof to keep out the sun and a hand picked stick to brace up the window at the front and away we went.

Driver With 37 Years Experience
Took Awhile But Finally the Right Stick

Yala Safaris are the most popular in Sri Lanka and produce a traffic jam of jeeps of various size and quality. If you want to go with other folks it is slightly cheaper but we were happy to pay a bit more and just be the two of us.

Sunrise Traffic Jam in Yala
Yala Entrance
Daybreak Away From the Traffic
Abundant Bird Life

Peacocks by the bucketload and lots of small brilliantly coloured birds lots of them migratory and all of them difficult to photograph.

Sleepy Stork

Throughout the course of the day we say both black faced and red faced Macaque monkeys and judging by the number of babies the population is quite healthy.

Brand New Baby
Red Faced Macaque
Black Face Macaques

There are said to be sloths in the park but like the leopard they alluded us. But we did spot plenty of mongoose and a chameleon, both of which were highlights.

Chameleon
Mongoose the Cobras Enemy

Hard to see and harder to identity we had snakes pointed out but didn’t really see them. Yala snakes include the cobra, rat, viper and python to name a few. Apparently cobras favor the tall reddy brown nests of the termite as a locale for home base. But even armed with that information I can’t say I actually saw one. Crocodile were present but other than a few lazing on muddy banks in the far in the distance they would appear as long dark bumpy lines in the water. Naturally there are various types of lizards skittling about, crossing roads and climbing trees.

Crocodile Log
Lizard

Wild boars were fairly frequent and of course we saw and enjoyed the water buffalo especially their comical raft like behaviour in the water. We saw some babies in the herds and were told that they are accustomed to the jeeps but it would be very dangerous if we were to step down out of the jeep. (Which isn’t allowed anyway) We also saw several herds of deer of various types including spotted and barking.

Wild Boar
Water Buffalo
They Love the Water
Barking & Spotted Deer

Of course my favourite for last….the elephants. There are 250 elephants in Yala and only 10 have tusks, so very rare and given the slaughter in other parts of the world, very smart. We saw babies with their mothers and aunties feeding from the tree tops and the occasional solo male. Only the females herd together with the babies led by a matriarch. The males will leave the herd when they are eight years old to live alone.

Lone Male Elephant
Mother and Baby
Bath Time
A Slow Wander Into The Deep

We had two breaks in the day, we stopped for breakfast on a sandy beach used by local fishermen who have built huts and some were busy repairing their nets inside and out of the sun. We stuck our toes in the Indian ocean and returned to find our breakfast spread out on a blanket under the trees.

Driver and Spotter Prepared Meals
Fisher Huts
Indian Ocean

Our second break for lunch was two hours because this is when the animals quit moving about and so must we. We picnicked beside a river and before long we were joined a band of red faced macac. So entertaining to seem them scrapping and cavorting about, leaping and climbing as fast as well…monkeys. Some of them looked a little worse for wear and being the red face macaque they can be a little tricky and have been known to attach and scratch and bite people. Surprisingly some of the guides across the river were feeding the monkeys although there are signs asking you not to, but it was entertaining to watch.

A Casual Pose
Curried Chicken and Fried Rice

We exited the park along with the sun happy with our day and our driver and guide having come to the conclusion they were the real deal on authentic local guides. As much as possible they managed to keep us away from the clusters of other jeeps although it did mean some rough rides on some tracks less frequented.

Bumpy Roads
Elephant Rock in the Far Distance

Tissamaharama

The Ulo Villa hotel was perched right on the edge of Lake Tissa and from our deck we were constantly entertained by the water buffalo and birds of all sorts.

Called Water Buffalo for a Reason

In addition we were parked right beside a local bathing spot on the lake and as soon as school let out swarms of kids came to swim and play and jump off a railing into the lake. At least until their mothers hailed them into shallower waters and gave their heads a good lather of shampoo and plastic buckets of rinsing. Dirty laundry was pounded and rolled on flat rocks and wrung out by the mothers in their long sarongs. After safari’s were done for the day the men drove their trucks into lake to give them a much needed wash down having collected a goodly share of dirt and mud in Yala.

Swim, Bath and Scrub

Our three days in Tissamaharama came to an end and we had to say goodbye bye to our talented chef and our great views.

Dal, chicken curry, beet salad, papadams, fried rice, curried green beans and curried fish

Thekkady

The performer that started the show, rolled, raised, lowered, shuffled, circled and otherwise manipulated only his eyes such that your eyes hurt just watching…

The drive from Munnar to Thekkady takes about three hours and continues to be as awe inspiring as the drive from Kochi to Munnar. The picture below gives a good idea of the Shola Forest predominant in the Ghats.

On the Road Again…to Thekkady
Botanical Garden but No More Flowers…I Promise

Thekkady is quite distinctive from Munnar, has more of a National Park Vibe than does Munnar which for its part is really just a jumble of a town that straddles the highway for the purpose of commerce. The area around Munnar is what makes it a destination whereas Thekkady itself has some actual charm. The big draw for me was Periyar National Park, famous for its flora and fauna. It is also a Tiger Reserve and a great way to see the Park is on a boat cruise. We got extremely lucky by all accounts as we cruised Periyar Lake seeing bison, elephants and deer, all relatively rare sights given that it was a midday sailing.

Inside the Park…No Cars Buses Only

After paying a bus fare that got me into the park and up close to the lake I purchased a ticket for the boat cruise and while I waited I had some fun people watching and some monkey antics as well. On the cruise I came to regret my decision to be lazy and leave my Nikon with telephoto lens at home. My iPhone just doesn’t cut the distances and my animal shots would have been much more satisfying.

These ladies happily agreed to have their photo taken
Seeing this and not to be outdone these ladies volunteered to be photographed. I love it!
I did alert the owner and he shooed the little fellow off…
Waiting to Board
Periyar National Park Lake
Deer and Stork
Bison
Wow just wow! Everyone on the boat was excited.
Two tiny babies and two older ones..

Cruise over and bussed back to the entrance, I met up with Srihari who took me to my Hotel. Really nice rooms and pool and I had a few hours to relax before the evening activities of a Kalaripayat Martial Arts performance followed by a performance of Kutiyattam the traditional dance of Kerala.

The arena where the martial arts demonstration happened was packed and by an enthusiastic audience of all ages. I sat beside an elderly woman who didn’t hold back when demonstrating her approval, clapping and yelling when something exciting happened. It was really fun. A combination of Kerlalan traditional martial arts and weapons, with extreme yoga poses and acrobatics it was quite entertaining and I was glad I went and equally glad that I avoided the audience participation part as seen below, although I did suggest that the avid older lady fan beside me volunteer which elicited giggles and chuckles.

Increasing number of backs to hurtle over and finish with an aerial tumble.
Weapons demo
T-shirt contest winners by far
The grand finale
Tumbling, spinning holding live fire

Immediately following the Martial Arts event I walked to the nearby theatre to see Kutiyattam, India’s oldest living theatrical art form, possibly 2000 years old. Starting out in temples as a story telling form of worship it advanced in the 20th century to stage and theatres. The meaning of the word Kutiyattam is ‘acting and dancing together’. The dance is performed in a specific manner and a lot of rules must be followed. The dance can only be presented by men of Chakiar caste and the music is played by men of the Nambiear caste. All of this was explained to the audience before the performance began. A very deliberate slow moving performance which relies heavily on extreme eye movements.

The performer that started the show, rolled, raised, lowered, shuffled, circled and otherwise manipulated only his eyes such that your eyes hurt just watching. In this first part only the eyes moved everything else was stony still. After the eye tumbling and with controlled breathing, fine facial movements and hand gestures, the story unfolds. Eventually other actors join the stage and the story becomes more dynamic. The music consisted of a drum, conch shell, cymbals and flute. A bit surreal the performance definitely gave the flavour of otherworldly beings as it was intended to do.

Amazing Dress

Back to my hotel and a good nights rest in a rather swanky hotel whose name escapes me. Tomorrow we leave the mountains and rolling hills of the Western Ghats and return to the Malabar Coast to the city of Alapuzza, south of Kochi.