food – Page 2 – Wander With Stella

Balkans Part 3 – Dubrovnik Croatia

Old City Dubrovnik, crowded but lovely and charming…a collection of history, beautiful architecture, tour groups and proof of every day living in an ancient place.

Taking the bus from Kotor in Montenegro to Dubrovnik in Croatia seems to be the only option if you don’t have a car. It’s a beautiful trip, cheap, but not necessarily punctual, but eventually it gets you there and the border crossing is easy. (By not punctual I mean a 2.5 hour delay in leaving Kotor Bus Station with no information of reason or eta.)

In Dubrovnik, city traffic is bustling, there are loads of cruise ships and bus loads of tourists, all descending on Dubrovnik even this late in the season. In addition, regular flights from all over and ferry boats from other countries arrive constantly making for a very touristy place. Getting around is easy on public transportation and uber is efficient and much cheaper than taxis.

The reason so many people start here is that Dubrovnik is a stunning city — full of history, coastal beauty, and culture. There are so many things to do, depending on your interests and how long you’re staying. It also serves as a gateway to the rest of Croatia with great roadways and ease of driving.

We arrived a few days before our booked driving tour and stayed right in the thrum of things in the Old City behind the ancient walls. Such a wonderful example of how a place can absorb and reflect culture over a thousand years or so. This UNESCO heritage site deserves its designation just for the City Walls.

Walking the City Walls is apparently a must-do in Dubrovnik! The full circuit takes about 1.5–2 hours, offering incredible views over the old town, terracotta roofs, and the Adriatic Sea.

But, I chose to spend my time wandering the Old Town (Stari Grad). Strolling the marble streets of this UNESCO World Heritage site you will come upon the Stradun (main street), leading to the Rector’s Palace, Sponza Palace, a Franciscan Monastery (with Europe’s oldest pharmacy). Not to be left out, the Dubrovnik Cathedral & Treasury all Beautiful Baroque architecture. You can also get a different perspective with a short climb outside the city walls, offering panoramic views and fewer crowds.

Stradum (Main Street) – Franciscan Church & Monastery

Food and drink, claiming local heritage is everywhere in the old city. One place that came highly recommended was Pipi’s and there’s a photo that follows that will enlighten you as to the origin of the name. Eating out was expensive, so to cut costs, we had breakfast in our room and shared dishes that would have been too much food for one.

Cafe’s, Pubs & Restaurant Abound – Fewer Tourists at Night

Pipi’s – Restaurant with Acclaimed Views

Part of the fun of wandering the Old City is visiting the trinket, souvenir and candy shops. During the daytime the streets and shops are so packed with tourists that if you’re a solo traveler you will welcome the night time when the Old City streets empty to some degree and wandering about becomes much more enjoyable.

Game of Thrones

Dubrovnik was King’s Landing in the series that I’m sure most of you have knowledge of. Visit filming sites like Pile Gate, Jesuit Staircase (Cersei’s “walk of shame”), Fort Lovrijenac, and taking a dedicated tour of settings is something many folks enjoy about the Old City.

In spite of its touristy function, the Old City is home to some brave souls who abide not only the crowds but the long treks up to their homes.

Stairway to Residences – Very Steep & Long

Enjoying the back lanes and the artistic touches of the merchants and residents was much more relaxing than navigating the crowds at the established tourist sites. So many quirky and delightful scenarios if you stand still a minute and let your eye wander.

The Western Balkans Part 2

Four days in Kotor, Montenegro….not long enough but so beautiful.

Montenegro

Crossing the border on the bus from Albania was relatively easy and fast given that everyone had to get off the bus and line up at the customs booth.

As soon as you enter Montenegro you are swept away by the majesty of the landscape. If you took a broom and swept up all the beautiful bits of the Western Balkans, making a tidy pile of mountains, oceans and scenic villages, you would have Montenegro. Smaller than the other Balkan countries it is not to be outdone because of its size.

Lots of Beauty Packed Into a Small Country

Small though it is, there wasn’t enough time to do everything on my list. I visited the capital, Podgorica long enough to change buses and then set up in Kotor for four days.

Kotor is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it is a stunning example of a medieval town surrounded by fjord-like mountains. Staying in an air BnB just outside of the old town gave us easy access to the walled city and the quieter residential areas where normal life goes on. Kotor is also the gateway to several other places of interest nearby including Budva, a beach town with an ancient look, historic Cetinje the capital of the mountain region and Durmitor National Park where folks go to hike, raft and ski. Sadly we only got to one, Perast and an ancient Venetian port.

Four Days in Kotor

Day one of four was spent visiting the Old Town, the medieval fort is quite interesting and the layers of history complex and intriguing.

The town is a medieval maze of churches, cafe-lined squares and Venetian palaces. If you were to rummage about in the treasure chest that is Kotor you would come up with one cathedral, five churches and many Venetian piazzas and of course a castle. The whole treasure chest is held together with a wall that didn’t want to quit and so snaked its way up the mountain. If you’d like you can climb it. Be my guest.

There are several museums including a town museum, a maritime museum but if you’re looking for something funky be sure and take in the Cat museum. Not to be missed in my books.

One of Thousands of Cat Illustrations in the Kotor Cat Museum

There is a down-side to Kotor and that is its popularity. Cruise ships and bus tours arrive with without regard to the lone travellers and they flood the old town with clutches of cruisers all crushed behind the flag bearing guide that tours them about in whatever language best suits them.

Besides being famous for the Old Town, Kotor is a beach town and all that that presents in the way of water sports and activities. One of our highlights was a boat tour around the Bay of Kotor that took in man made caves that were used to hide Yugoslavian submarines. Huge and cavernous there are three or four of them along a shore and apparently they are all connected by underground tunnels.

We also circumnavigated an old prison, now a five star hotel in the middle of the bay. Apparently it is thousands of euros per night. Maybe next time.

We also visited and went ashore on the famous islet of Our Lady of the Rocks. Legend has it that somewhere back in the 15th century two fisherman brothers put in on the island and found a statue of the Virgin Mary. Taking it home they awoke to find it gone but upon returning to the island they discovered it had returned to where they found it. And so a miracle was declared a church was built and they all lived happily ever after. Nearby there is another island with and old convent, St. George, but it is not open to the public.

On the way back the captain of our tour boat offered me a chance to take the helm and I couldn’t say no. It was a good tour and a beautiful day, one of the only ones we had in Kotor. It rained heartily a good deal of the time and there was a sick day given a cold likely resulting from fluctuating temperatures.

As mentioned earlier we had time only to visit Perast an ancient Venetian Port that boasts 16 churches and 17 grand palazzi that date back to the 17th century. We arrived during daylight but stayed long enough to enjoy the sunset, have a lovely dinner and wander the streets to see the old buildings prettily lit for the evening.

And so I left Montenegro without having accomplished much of what I’d hoped to, between the weather and a sick day, time and moving about were limited. But Montenegro is definitely on my “hope to return one day list.”

Wanderings in The Western Balkans

Albania a must go destination before it’s fully appreciated and discovered!

Part One – Albania

The Western Balkan are so named as they share the western slopes of the Balkan Mountain Range and include: Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, North Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia and Kosovo. Although my wanderings only took me to Albania, Montenegro, Croatia and a brief visit to Bosnia & Herzegovina, the other Western Balkans countries are said to share the same beautiful landscapes and rich cultural backgrounds. With the exception of Albania and the addition of Slovenia these were the countries that made up the former Yugoslavia.

The Albanian Riviera

When planing to visit Albania from the UK, the cheapest flights were from Gatwick Airport to Corfu in Greece. From Corfu there is an inexpensive ferry to Albania. It is a short crossing of just over an hour to the city of Sarande, the centre of the Albanian “Riviera”.

The Albanian “riviera” is rapidly becoming known for its beautiful beaches and has become an alternative to other more crowded and expensive European beach destinations. As a result it attracts beach party enthusiasts and the many beautiful beaches that extend from Vlore in the North to Ksamil in the South are said to be a beach lovers paradise, and with the exception of Ksamil which we soon found out, can be quite affordable.

Sarande the Gateway to the Albanian Riviera

Having read that the beaches got nicer south of Sarande we headed for Ksamil. The hotel and beach scene there left a lot to be desired. The Lonely Planet guide says that it twice as expensive as the other Albanian Riviera spots.

Ksamil is an interesting place and even though it was end of season the place was still relatively crowded but we managed a soak in the sun and a swim in the sea during our overnight stay.

Enjoying Agri-tourism in Albania

After a night in Ksamil, we took a local bus back to Sarande and caught an intercity bus to Durre, a busy coastal port town that deserved more time than we could give it. We were in Durre long enough to pick up a rental car.

There are definitely some things that I would recommend doing differently in Albania. One would be to have more that three or four days, the distances are longer than expected given that buses are the only mode of inter-city travel. The schedules you find on-line don’t always match up with reality and although the buses are inexpensive they are intermittent and sometimes slow going.

Once we realized the limitations of bus travel in Albania, we quickly regrouped and decided to focus on a growing sector of Albanian tourism, that of Agritourism, which given its remote aspect, justified the rental car.

There are many options to choose from but most of the farms offer accommodation, farm to table cuisines, local wines and beautiful scenery.

We loved our two nights at the “Hani I Leks” Torshavn Lezhe farm. Gorgeous setting with amazing sunsets, cozy cabin and farm to table meals. Dinner the first night was a pre-set menu with appetizers that never quit coming: three cheeses, olives, bread, marinated vegetables, an entire family sized bowl of tossed green salad, grapes, yogurt dips etc, followed by the main course of lamb, slow roasted fall off the bone! No room for the desert after all of that.

Breakfasts at the farm were just as elaborate as the dinners. Starting with deep fried bannock-like fritters drizzled with honey, followed by the main course of tomatoes, cucumbers, eggs, bread, sweet buns, and a rolled crepe filled with Nutella. All this accompanied by yogurt and a sweet white porridge. Then just when you can’t eat another bite, comes breakfast desert, flans and grapes. It seems impossible to starve in Albania!

Having the car to explore the area was really a good idea. We’ve been finding that the average price for a taxi or a car/driver is close to 40 CAD and that’s for short distances, making the renting of a car a much cheaper alternative, and gave us much more freedom to get out into the countryside.

Thanksgiving’s Coming

Being up in the mountains meant it was cooler in the evenings and the first night there was an impressive thunder storm which made our cozy cabin more welcoming. The AGRO-TURIZEM thing is really the way to go if you want to experience the countryside and overall the roads aren’t too bad. The second night was a sunset delight, moon rising and star watching with a bottle of Albanian red on a patio suspended over the valley.

Shengjin a Seaside Town

We spent our exploration day cruising through small towns wending our way down to the beach town of Shengjin on the ocean side of Lethe. Our kind of place. If I went back to Albania and wanted beach time I would head here. Lovely clear water, more locals (fewer party people) and regular prices. Easy to rent a chaise and umbrella and have a good swim.

The Lezhe area has several AGRO-TURIZEM places and we visited one close by our own for a late lunch. It had gotten high ratings which as we discovered were well deserved. The Mrizi i Zanave farm is a busy place filled with areas of interests: flower gardens, children’s play areas, livestock and a market store full of farm made treats. There is no menu, as you are served only what is fresh and prepared in the kitchen. A welcome drink of rose water is followed by at least five or six plates of appetizers that crossed our table before the main of baby goat arrived. Albanian house wines are delicious and for this meal we tried a white. The appetizers were really varied between grilled, marinated and fresh vegetables, accompanied by three types of cheeses and a type of very tasty prosciutto.

The place was quite large and being a farm had vineyards, wheat crops and the animals including goats that nibbled away at a corn crib about twenty feet heigh. We passed several corn fields that had clearly “finished” for the year so we missed corn season but it seems that much of it is used for animal feed.

Mountains, valleys, the Adriatic Sea and beautiful skies are the hallmarks of Albania. Being out of the cities and on the winding country roads, passing small villages, crossing narrow bridges over meandering streams and rivers makes for a very pretty passing. Country settings give you a better sense of life for average Albanians who are striving to gain pace with the rest of Europe.

Albanian History

Always when I wander I wonder about the original peoples of a region and the history that followed. Clearly Albania evolved through many time periods each one influencing language, architecture, art, politics, economics and cultural beliefs.

One of the most recent regimes occurred between 1945 to 1992. It was an oppressive, Stalinist regime led by Enver Hoxha, marked by “extreme isolationism, pervasive surveillance, and economic neglect.”Hoxha and his party controlled all aspects of life, executing thousands and imprisoning tens of thousands, while shifting alliances from the Soviet Union to China before completely isolating itself. The regime ultimately collapsed amid economic crisis in 1990, leading to the establishment of a democratic state that is now working to join the European Union. One of the lasting reminders of the regime is thousands of cement bunkers built across the country with the goal of having one for every man.

Albania is now gaining ground economically which some hope will end in entry to the European Union. The LEK not the Euro is the currency and be warned that it is not easily exchanged to other currencies once you leave the country.

Four brief days in Albania was just a teaser. There are so many historic and interesting sites that we had to pass by as we made our way by bus to Montenegro. I’ve seen enough though to peak my interest and will hope to return one day with several more days and a full-time car to go deeper on this interesting country.

Frida Spotting of Course – I Rarely Don’t See Her Wherever I Go

BELIZE IT…A Central American Countries Slogan

Belize will soon be a fond memory of a country of happy, friendly people…..

Getting from Bacalar Mexico to Belize involved a 12 plus hour day of vans and local buses. Adrenalina tours – Guatemala, does hotel pick-ups in Bacalar and one van took us as far as the Belize Border where we cleared customs and boarded another van on the Belize side that took us to Belmopan the capital of Belize, but not before we changed vans again in Belize City.

Stopping in Belize City was somewhat of a surprise as we thought our route skirted the city and went directly to Belmopan. The bus depot shares space with the San Pedro Water Taxi dock where strangely, we were treated to a Chinese New Years Dragon Dance and fire cracker display. Loud and smokey we took refuge behind any available nose covering while simultaneously using our fingers as ear protection against the fireworks.

In Belmopan, the capital, it was a several hour wait for a local bus that would take us to Seine Bight our final destination. With the first instruction being “get off at the Jaguar Lanes” the driver and his helper seemed to know exactly where we were headed. The bus loaded with locals was comfortable and part way across the Hummingbird Highway to the coast a woman boarded selling Cinnamon bread and of course a purchase was made. Good thing as it was breakfast the next morning. Passing along the highway you are able to see the Maya mountain area of green fields, plantations and country homes. Beautiful scenery.

By the time the bus reached the “Jaguar Lanes” it was dark and we followed our next instruction which was walk to the junction turn left and keep coming. Even in the dark our noses didn’t fail us and there, just ahead “The Lazy Crab”.

Two prefabricated cabins along with the owners larger home, hover around a pool on a freshly planted garden which one day will provide some much needed shade. Palms and tropical flowering plants are planted in a sand soil which is raked regularly by the gardener.

Our unit “The Sea Horse” is small but comfortable and the front porch gives us another room for outdoor living. The prefabs are made by the local Mennonites and one day two of them came by with a drone to make a promotional video to attract other potential buyers. In this post-covid world it took all three of us to cover the cost of a month in Belize. What a difference from pre-covid days.

One Bedroom, One Bath and Day Bed (Mine)

The Belizean dollar declares itself permanently tied to the American dollar by half, using “pegging” as a means of stabilizing currency. American dollars come as change or you are welcome to pay with them.

Where Are We?

We are on a spit of land that runs north to south along the Caribbean coast of Belize and it is riddled with channels and lagoons on its backside and beautiful sand beaches on its front. Major developments mainly north of Seine Bight are springing up and the wealthy who can afford to are building monstrously big houses in stark contrast to the homes of the locals. Lots of foreign built and owned properties are for sale everywhere you look. Is it speculation, buyers remorse or need or want to repatriate?

Our hosts were helpful in providing information regarding distances, restaurants, beaches and groceries. So we set about discovering our neighbourhood. We are some distance from Placencia which was somewhat of a surprise. The buses and vans are hard to nail down as schedules are allusive and designated stops non-existent but after a few days we worked out how to get into Placencia and back but chose to do most of our shopping here at Maya Beach or further on down the road in Seine Bight.

A cab to Placencia and back costs as much as $60. USD so finding local transport is essential. The Isthmus narrows and widens as it wends its way south to Placencia and is crisscrossed by canals and lagoons, sometimes you can see water on both sides of the isthmus.

Although we have ventured into Placencia a few times and we have taken two tours we have spent most of our time at Maya Beach. It has become our ‘hood’. We have a pub, restaurant, pool hall and bowling alley “all in one” at the end of our lane. Our favourite beach which we have dubbed “first beach” after Stanley Park’s numbered beaches is a ten minute walk and even one drink will buy you a full day of beach, chaise long, pool and palm trees. Their menu is small but the food is good and the shrimp salad is repeat worthy.

Palms Overhead Shade at the Ceiba Beach Resort

Just a little further along the beach are second and third beach, otherwise known as the Green Parrot and Mangos. Similar to the Ceiba Resort, you can use the beach and chairs but not necessarily the pool. If you come to Belize for the beach and you can afford it Maya Beach is a great area and in spite of a large expat community, we’ve been able to meet many of the locals at Jaguar Lanes and other places. Belizeans are very friendly and it’s not unusual to be greeted warmly and even welcomed to the country as I was by an older gentleman in the Belmopan bus station.

In a short span of time it is easy to encounter someone from one of the three main Belizean groups of people. The Creole are decedants of African slaves and Europeans and they speak their own unique and local variation of English. Mestizo is the name given to people with Maya and Spanish ancestry and they generally speak Spanish. The Maya are a small group who claim direct decendancy and speak Maya. English is the official language of Belize as a former British colony, but I read that 64% Belizeans speak all the languages.

Seine Bight – Closest Bigger Shopping Stop

Since we were staying a month, groceries and home-cooking was warranted and the next biggest shopping opportunities were in Seine Bight. Of course getting there was a bit of a challenge but at least a taxi ride back when you’re laden with bags is affordable. The town itself is interesting and appears to be a Creole settlement.

Which Tour to Pick….so much to do!

Diving, sailing, snorkeling, fishing, caving, Maya ruins, wildlife and hiking is a start to what you can consider while in Belize.

Snorkeling on the Great Belizean Barrier Reef

Fortunately, we stumbled across a small tour office on our way to Maya Beach one day and met the tour guide Evers. He operates small tours, which are best, and we booked to go snorkeling with him out on the Great Belize Coral Reef. The second largest next to the Australian Great Barrier Reef, it is heaven for divers and snorkelers alike.

The tour price included transport to Placencia where we launched off to visit the Silk Caye. It was quite a long boat trip but very enjoyable, windy but sunny and the colour of the water was spectacular. Ever was knowledgeable and was both our tour and snorkelling guide, pointing out various underwater species and making sure we were all huddled safely together like the fish we were looking at.

Silk Caye boasts more than 35 species of fish including whale sharks, barracudas, snappers, shrimp and many more. There is a huge variety of coral. All different sizes and shapes it is well worth the efforts to save this endangered reef, now declared a World Heritage Sight. My underwater camera bag failed me and none of my photos give snorkeling here there due.

Lots of Conch Shells Laying on the Sea Floor

There were only five of us which made for lots of time for discussion and questions. The coral reef around Silk Caye was impressive, although earth tones mainly, the variety of coral was amazing and Ever had brought along a laminated sheet listing all the various kinds. Plenty of fish of brilliant colours and the odd lobster too. We also had lunch on Silk Caye which is a national marine reserve and then we were off to visit turtles, manta rays, sharks and various fish further out on the reef.

Homeward bound we stopped at Ray Caye, a private resort island that allows non-guests to eat, drink, use their pool and even zip down their water slide at the end of a double decker pier. Lots of fun and a good way to end the day before heading back to Placencia.

Cave Tubing

Tour Two was a cave-tubing adventure north of Maya Beach so we got to see a whole new area. Cave Bransh or Nohoch Che’en is one of the top 10 things to do in Belize and it is was a lot of fun but there were hoards of people, but Ever kept us all together in our small group of four and even offered us a look at Hopkins a town on the way back to the Isthmus.

Hopkins Another Beach Town

Hopkins, on the northern part of the Isthmus is really cool and is another potential place to stay if you’re beaching it but especially good for easy access to fishing and the Great Belizean Reef.

Placencia

Placencia is a delightful hodgepodge of beachfront restaurants bars, buildings on stilts and a central boardwalk that runs the length of the town. If you’re after shopping and looking for souvenirs it is a great place to wander and chat with the locals. The Maya have a firm grip on the souvenir market, selling beaded goods, hats, baskets and woven goods. Not only are they sold in the shops in Placencia you can also buy them from the lovely Maya women who walk the beaches plying their wares in the least aggressive or offensive way possible. I have purchased some small baskets and some great local hot sauces. I really like the carved wooden bowls and figurines, shiny and smooth to the touch.

An interesting art gallery revealed another ethnic group that calls Belize home. The city of Dangriga on the north end of the Isthmus is home to the Garifuna, a cultural and ethnic group, descendants of shipwrecked slaves and native Caribs. The Garifuna have adopted the Carib language but kept their African musical and religious traditions reflected in the art in this gallery.

Signage is ramshackle and beachy and as a perfect compliment, buildings are brightly coloured, many raised up on stilts. There are also larger well tended colonial looking houses with beach front property right in the heart of town.

Along the boardwalk are various restaurants that provide beach side seating, pools and of course food. It’s such a great idea to allow access to the beach and pools in exchange for consuming lunch and/or drinks. I’ve been in other countries where you pay for the use of the property on top of the restaurant bill.

Homeward Bound

The month of February is done and as all good things must end, I am wending my way home to Vancouver Island. First a lovely over the water flight from Placencia to Belize City for an overnight stay and now waiting to board flight to Denver to connect to flight for Vancouver.

Belize will soon be a fond memory of a country of happy, friendly people, who at least in the tourism sector, are working hard to improve their lives and to capitalize on the money pouring into their country with foreigners looking for a little piece of paradise. I have loved how the various peoples of Belize blend and mix together and learn each other’s languages. In spite of poverty, income disparities and being an emerging and developing nation, I have witnessed their pride in their country and fully applaud their desire to make Belize a country to be admired and acknowledged as a liveable and respected destination.

Changes in Merida and Progreso

Change, the only constant

When you fall in love with a country you have to be prepared to remind yourself that change is the only constant. Especially when your visits, once frequent, have become less so with longer time gaps in between. You are bound to notice some differences and allow yourself to pine a bit for simpler times. Beneath modernization and development can lie the remnants of culture but hopefully Mexico is able to maintain its unique charm as is the case so far in the Yucatán.

Getting There

Not one to take a direct route I had to spend at least a small amount of time in the Yucatan Mexico before heading to Belize for the month of February.

Having been many times there is a real pull for me to return to some of my favourite places in the Yucatan especially Merida and Progreso. I have blogged a fair amount about the Yucatán so will limit myself to some of the changes and highlights for the time I spent there.

New to Me – The Maya Train

Since I first heard about the new Maya Train I’ve wanted to give it a go. You can pre-book your train tickets on the Maya Tren web-site, but while still in Canada, it took a few tries throughout a couple of weeks before I was successful. The web-site indicated that the train left from the Cancun Airport station and the convenience was so inviting that it peaked my enthusiasm to the point that I booked a first class ticket to Mérida, $81.00 CAD.

The new and not quite finished Maya Train stations are monolithic, tons of poured concrete and stylish architecture but situated for the most part in construction zones so they have an eerie quality of not being anchored as of yet. The stations although huge are quiet, deserted and house little in the way of conveniences. What was there was closed for the day. So don’t arrive hungry, thirsty or in need of cash until things are really up and running.

I’m sad to say that the train does not really leave from the Cancun Airport but is located at the farthest end of the airport and I was given to understand that the only way to the station was by taxi. In retrospect I think that if I’d spent more time asking I would have a found a bus or a shuttle to the train station. However, an official at the airport told me that a taxi was the only way to get to the station on time and that the last train left at 6:00 pm which gave me cause to panic as I had a ticket for the 7:20 train. Rookie mistake, I opted for the taxi. The price was exorbitant for a fifteen minute trip and I arrived at the station just before 6:00 pm, discovering of course that my train was indeed leaving at 7:20 as printed on the ticket.

The train departed on time and a short time before departure a fairly good sized crowd had gathered, we were all lined up and a friendly young policeman had us place our bags in a row in front of us and his sniffer dog made it’s way down the line of cases. After that we were allowed into the actual station and then waited for the all clear to ride the escalator down to track level.

The first class train car, all sparkly and new, has two seats on one side and a single on the other so if you are travelling alone you can sit by yourself. Not an issue as I think there were at most about a dozen passengers in the car.

Just over four hours to Merida, we arrived at the station which is way outside of central Merida. The Merida-Teya station again is stunningly big and new and shiney clean and although it is far from town there is a tram (bus) that takes you to another new “station” about forty minutes away in Merida called La Plancha for only 45 pesos.

From there a small shuttle bus takes you to the Center of Merida to a park that thankfully was within walk distance of my hotel. Getting there late at night meant that there weren’t any taxis at La Plancha so I was grateful for the shuttle and the help of a young train worker to get me on it and explain to the driver where I wanted to go, especially since I was yet to acquire a phone card or cash.

New to Me – Trendy Avenida 47.

If you’re going to stay in a hotel in Merida I highly recommend staying somewhere on or just off the Paseo de Montejo as close to the centre of town as possible. The hotel I chose was “The Chariot” right on the Paseo and I was really happy with my stay there. Inexpensive and close to everything I wanted to see and do I discovered a whole new area that has opened up to book stores, antique shops, restaurants, pubs, galleries etc and the art instalments in several of the restaurants are great in themselves.

Now heralded as the “Corredor de Gastronomico” Avenida 47 is busy, fun, great for food and art lovers and leads directly to La Plancha.

International Cuisine, Fusion & Traditional – Delicious

And right around the corner from Avenida 47 is one of the oldest restaurants on the Paseo de Montejo. A favourite spot for the locals and tourists it serves up food in the decor of a fifties diner.

The La Plancha

Wow what an endeavour to modernize and upscale what was once a rundown old train depot. Again sleek, gigantic and people friendly, La Plancha includes kiddy parks, outdoor exercise stations, an amphitheatre, gardens and fountains and covers city blocks of land. Old train cars have been recommissioned and turned into Cafes and Bistros and there is a huge food court with seating for hundreds of people. Very empty the day we went but eventually when this new trendy area and the Maya Train is complete I’m sure it will become a welcome attraction for Meridians. Hopefully one day the train will actually land here!

Progreso

Dear little old Progreso just keeps progressing. Over the years, the Malecon went from a busy traffic street to pedestrian only, there is a now a Starbucks and many of the old mansions have been renovated and turned into expensive dining spots with ocean views. A ramshackle old hotel that I used to pass daily is now the nicely renovated and expensive Scapatta Hotel which is where I stayed in the cheapest room. Quite satisfactory, until a bat took up residence outside my door causing quite a pile of excrement on a nightly/daily basis. Luckily for me the hotel clerk was as offended by the bats behaviour as I was and upgraded me without cost to a much nicer room. I would stay at the Scapatta again but prepare myself for much higher prices than in my pre-covid meanderings. It’s just the way of the world at the moment, what used to be very affordable is no longer the case.

A New to Me Cenote

Of course a trip to the Yucatán must include a visit to a cenote. Every Cenote has its own distinct characteristics and amenities. Some very natural and informal and others organized and regulated. The Hacienda Mucuyche fits in the latter category. It is lovely, not cheap and you need to reserve online to guarantee a spot. You are assigned a guide who first shows you the remains of the old hacienda clearly resplendent in its day. What was thought to be only a well eventually revealed itself to be a series of Cenote joined by underground passages. The guide takes his limited number of people in life jackets into the first cavernous cenote and you eventually swim along an above ground channel only to enter a second dark and cavernous cenote that has a number of interesting limestone formations including numerous stalactites. After your swim there is a restaurant on-site where you can enjoy a meal in your pretty surroundings. See the link below if you’d like to visit.

https://www.cenoteshaciendamucuyche.com/

Certainly if you’re interested in a more expansive view of hacienda life that also includes a swim in a cenote visit the Hacienda Sotuta de Peon.

https://www.haciendaviva.com/en/contacto-sotuta-de-peon-yucatan

Also New to Me – Bacalar

Bacalar is within striking distance of Belize so a chance to visit an area that I’d heard good things about and to spend a few days on a fresh water system (sweet water) of lakes and lagoons presented itself. Sadly, the rainy and cooler temperatures of the Yucatan followed me to Bacalar, and between the rain and one day of feeling ill meant that I was unable to take full advantage of the fun things in Bacalar. Riding a bike out to a beach club one day included sheltering from a deluge for several hours before it was safe to ride back to my hotel.

Bacalar is a nice place however and tourism seems to be the main industry. A pretty town square surrounded by bars and restaurants and a growing number of fusion style restaurants along with the beautiful blue lagoon attracts a lot of tourists, International and Mexican.

A November American Sojourn – American Thanksgiving: Arkansas, Texas and New Mexico.

Southern US friends, food and sights!

Headed to Shreveport….Louisiana That Is….

Leaving Nanaimo between storms is the smart thing. I dodged the high winds and bucketing rain of the last few days and the predicted Cyclone Bomb of tomorrow. Once known as rain and wind we now have Atmospheric Rivers and Cyclone Bombs. My first time on the HULLO high speed passenger boat from my hometown Nanaimo to downtown Vancouver and we are sailing along at a great speed. Evidence of the recent storms is all around the boat in the form of floating dead heads, a marine hazard of the worst sort. But the HULLO is dodging around them at a great clip and we will be in downtown Vancouver in no time.

I am in Vancouver, positioning myself for a next day flight to the USA to visit a friend who has moved from Nanaimo to Arkansas. Even though I land in Louisiana my destination is Lake Erling in Arkansas where my friend and her husband have a “fish camp”. When I first heard the term I pictured them engaged in a commercial enterprise that catered to sports fishermen, but in fact it is what all homes on a lake are called, like we would say “cabin.”

Lake Country South West Corner Arkansas

If you’re headed to the SW corner of Arkansas the best airport to fly into is Shreveport which is in the NW corner of Louisiana. It is small and easily accessible for the friends, who if you’re lucky enough will drive the 1.5 hours to fetch you.

Arriving in the dark there wasn’t much to see but waking in the morning gave the picture of why my friends live where they live. Nestled in a pine forest down a private but shared road they look westward over Lake Erling. Their private dock affords them the luxury of fishing and wildlife viewing when they are not out on their boat catching catfish and other local fish species. Spotting the occasional crocodile in the water, eagles soaring overhead, herons squawking in early flight and red skied sunsets are daily events for the folks who call the lake-side fish camps home. Some camps are occupied by full-time residents while others are used on weekends or holidays.

Since we were tucked up into the corner of Arkansas it meant that we could easily visit the neighbouring corners of Louisiana and Texas. Our first day was spent crossing these state lines into Louisiana and then Texas to visit a tourist town called Jefferson. Full of antique shops, quaint stores and southern food restaurants we wandered the streets, visiting stores and eventually heading to a barbecue restaurant for smoked brisket sandwiches, hot water corn bread and sweet sauced beans. Not a veg or a leaf of lettuce in sight, but as a nod to nutrition we were able to mix our “sweet cold tea” with non-sweet to cut down on the sugar intake. Very authentic barbecue, and as proof, just outside the restaurant was the stack of wood used to fire up the smokers. The decor was definitely southern and American with flags and memorabilia on every wall. Styrofoam cups, plastic straws and a roll of paper towel for napkins along with plastic cutlery and paper plates all headed for the bin after we ate.

Trying southern food is a real experience but I would not want to be a vegetarian that’s for sure.

Chicken Fried Steak, White Gravy, Fries, Beans and Garlic Toast…chicken friend steak being beef battered like chicken and deep friend…no actual chickens died in the preparation of this meal.

Visiting the shops along the Main Street was fun to see the Christmas Season starting up with decorations and gift ideas amongst the usual collection of antiques, clothing and gift stores. Such a huge array of stock in every store and I even spotted the Red Ryder BB Gun made famous in The Christmas Story movie.

Red Ryder.. You’ll shoot your eye out…..

Having little or knowledge of Arkansas before traveling there I was surprised at the number of lakes, small towns and rural life style that pervaded, at least in this corner of Arkansas.

Next Up – Road Trip Clear Across Texas to New Mexico with a night in Amarillo. Long drive for sure and very grateful to my friends who were willing participants. The highway was fraught with truck traffic and really not much to see, pretty flat and prairie like when you could see around the semi-trucks.

New Mexico

But arriving in New Mexico the terrain changed to mountains and we were able to stop at a Puebla not far out of Santa Fe. The Puebla situated in the Pecos National Park housed the remains of a once thriving community that was located on the Santa Fe Trail a famous trade route between indigenous communities. Preservation work is ongoing and the park has a really great museum that outlines the history of the people that called the Pueblo home before contact.

Santa Fe & Albuquerque

After my Arkansas friends left to return home I was fortunate to revisit my friend Loni-Jo Dunham in Placitas, just south of Santa Fe and my friends the Reeves in Albuquerque. Beautiful landscapes, arty communities and American thanksgiving along with the on-set of Christmas filled the air.

Game of Thrones

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Montenegro

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The Albanian Riviera

Enjoying Agri-tourism in Albania

Shengjin a Seaside Town

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Where Are We?

Seine Bight – Closest Bigger Shopping Stop

Which Tour to Pick….so much to do!

Placencia

Homeward Bound

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Getting There

New to Me – The Maya Train

New to Me – Trendy Avenida 47.

The La Plancha

Progreso

A New to Me Cenote

Also New to Me – Bacalar

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Lake Country South West Corner Arkansas

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