Night Market – Wander With Stella

Phuket Island

Phuket, the bigger Thai Island with a little bit of everything for everyone. Surprising for its beauty, food, beaches and friendly Thai people.

Phuket Island will be the final stop on my journey through Thailand, before I head to Malaysia. The ferry from Koh Lanta to Phuket Island was just long enough, and on the way there was blue sky, fishing trawlers and the well known island of Koh PiPi which I will have to leave for another time.

Old Town Phuket

Of course there is the Island of Phuket, the City of Phuket and “Old Town” Phuket, and it is here that I spent my first four nights on Phuket Island. Lovely walking area, my hotel was not one of the heritage hotels, like the one below, but it was a block from the Old Town as it is known, it was very nice and it had a decent size pool.

Old Town Decked Out for Chinese New Year

Old Town Phuket – Nominated To Be A World Heritage Site

Restaurants Galore Welcoming the Four Corners of the World

Once again I used the Map My City Ap for its walking tour of the old town and it took me the better part of a day to follow their routes. The tour took me past several sites that represent the history and the culture of Phuket that dates back to the 1st C AD. An important port in the trade route between China and Malaysia, it’s early history meant an influx of Chinese. The Golden Dragon is a symbol that is given offerings and prayers in exchange for protection of Phuket and its people.

In spite of it being Old Phuket there are many reminders of a modern art scene as you stroll the streets and turn corners to find the unexpected.

Thanon Dibuk Road is a bustling street of cafes and shops catering to tourist and local alike. A good area to sample Thai food in one of the many cafes.

Perhaps the most outstanding feature of Thanon Dibuk Road is an off shoot called Soi Rommanee Lane a narrow passage of Sino-Portuguese shophouses which were at one time brothels and gambling houses. Ironically this former street of sin, leads to the Wat Mongolian Nimit built in 1880. Mongolian Nimit Wat is a an especially sacred place for gathering and making offerings to the Buddha. Inside the Pagoda style Wat are intricate colourful art works and a giant stupa surrounded by other small stupas and of course a statue of Buddha.

Sino-Portuguese architecture is not unique to Phuket, Southern India and Sri Lanka also have architecture that reflect the melding of European and Asian cultures. These colourful, practical buildings certainly remain as evidence of the Portuguese, Malay and Chinese who came to trade in the 19th Century and earlier. Eventually trade involved the mining and exporting of tin which really meant an economic boom for Phuket. Great care has been taken to restore these buildings to make them as authentic as possible. Most are now shops, bars and restaurants and full of tourists.

Old Alley Ways Between and Under Buildings

Chinese history is very prominent in Old Town Phuket as waves of settlement led to the construction Chinese Schools and Family Shrines that honoured their ancestors.

Shrine of Serene Light to Chinese Ancestors

Surin, Kamala, Pukhet & Karon Beaches

Of course the Island of Phuket is known as a beach holiday destination and offers the choice of several well-known beaches, many of which were sadly destroyed in the 2004 Tsunami in which many people lost their lives.

Surin Beach

I had the chance to explore several of the beaches along the west coast of Phuket Island. I definitely started at one of the top tier beaches, Surin, where the hotels are quite pricy so a short stay was in order.

Kamala Beach

If I had to pick a beach to stay at for an extended period of time it would be Kamala Beach, a little less expensive than Surin and a little less crowded and cluttered than Paton Beach.

Patong Beach

I actually spent more time in a Patong Beach hotel, which wouldn’t have been my first choice but definitely more affordable. I really can’t complain though I was at the far northern end of the beach and my hotel had a balcony with a lovely view of the ocean and the sunsets. It had a cute little pool and the bus that runs between the various beaches stopped right outside my door.

The beach chair renters called me Mama and if I missed a day they wanted to know why. They were really sweet and started to give me discounts.

Sand Under Brilliant White Lights Gives a Nice Green Glow

Patong Hotel Pool – Across a Busy Road to the Beach

Restaurant on the Rocks – Far End of Patong Beach

Karon Beach

I had the good fortune of meeting a Thai woman named Nok and as soon as we started to chat we realized we were practically twins. We enjoy the same hobbies, shared many opinions and even like to travel alone. She worked for a large corporation at one time and was sent all over on business so we even shared a love of travel. She very kindly took a day off work to show me around and one of the places we went was to Karon Beach. We had a picnic there and she had brought along friend chicken and sticky rice. She sat and crocheted under a palm tree while I swam in the surf which was a little wild for me. Knocked me off my feet a couple of times, making it very hard to get out of the water.

One thing I missed on all of the beaches was a variety of folks from different parts of the of the world. All of these beaches are packed with Russians who tend to be an unfriendly bunch that speak little English. It’s said that there are over 100,000 Russians in Thailand at any given time and many wealthy families send their children here to sit out the war against Ukraine. They are given 6 month visas whereas most tourists get 3 months and even have to extend that one after 60 days. Of course the Russians pay more for their visas.

Since there were so many Russians about, I became quite curious about the Russian people and I even googled, “why are Russians so unfriendly”. The answer was interesting in that it’s said to be a cultural phenomena not to waste time and energy on what could be viewed as falsely friendly exchanges. A waste of time, but I also read that they are warm and friendly with those that they know. I was told an old Russian saying “enjoy today, it will only get worse.” Which may explain their somewhat dark moods. Like all people, there are a mix of good and bad but the collective exterior Russian persona is decidedly cold.

In my observation the second largest group are the French and then a smattering of other European groups who tend to be more friendly and speak English for the most part quite well. Don’t get me wrong I don’t expect people to speak English everywhere I go but a little friendly conversation goes a long way when you’re a solo traveller. One sure thing is that Russia and Europe are the bulk of the beach holidayers on Phuket. I met the odd Canadian but surprisingly there are very few travellers from the U.S.A.

Patong and Surrounding Areas

Banga Street & Shopping Zone

Patong, the sin city of Thailand, or one of them anyway, was not nearly as repugnant as I thought it might be. Maybe because I only wandered about in the party zone earlier in the evenings.

Bars & Clubs Along the Famous Banga Street

Most People Seemed Like Tourists not “Customers”

One thing I saw was the photo above. It was little creepy to be honest and to music the “real live” girl in the middle danced about and the two “not so real and not so alive” girls on each end followed her steps. Clever but creepy.

Big Buddha

Once again my friend Nok came and collected me to take me to see the Big Buddha as it is known. Going with a local I learned all kinds of things about the Buddha that I might otherwise have missed.

For one thing, Big Buddha was a commercial venture created for tourism and not a holy site with deep history. It was opened some years ago but due to poor engineering it was not quite completed when the government stepped in and shut it down. I was lucky that on March 3rd I was there for the reopening that followed a two year hiatus. Apparently the engineers failed to determine the impact of the weight of Buddha and during a heavy rainstorm the settling of the monument caused a land slide killing several people living on the slopes below. Supposedly the faults are rectified and the site was deemed safe to reopen. The views from the Big Buddha are amazing.

The monument to Buddha is concrete covered with marble tile. As of yet there is nothing inside the open space beneath the Buddha but that may come.

I was surprised by how much I enjoyed Phuket Island but meeting my Thai friend Nok had a lot to do with that. Between picnics on beaches, shopping trips, massages, tours of Phuket and gifts of crocheted items I appreciated the time she took to spend with me and to answer my many questions. I have extended an invitation for her to visit me in Canada and one day I hope we meet again.

And now off to Langkawi Island via Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia.

Krabi Thailand & Koh Lanta

Krabi….very special province in the South of Thailand….the nearest thing to a 10 for geographical beauty. A gateway to the Island paradise of Koh Lanta.

I’m going to digress here a little bit and tell you about an encounter at the Bangkok airport as I was waiting for my flight to Krabi. I was chatting with a fellow and when I told him I was from Canada, he recounted that he had met our Prime Minister, Mark Carney in his chocolate shop in West Hampstead where Carney lived while he was the Head of the Bank of England. He said that he was a down to earth very pleasant man, curious about peoples jobs, very likeable and would buy white chocolate for his wife, it being her favourite. He said other lovely things about Mark Carney and how lucky we were to have him! It made me feel very proud to be a Canadian.

Krabi Province

Goldilocks Luck

Krabi is a province in Southern Thailand but it is also the name of the provincial capital. Ao Nang Beach is a smaller village about 14 kms from Krabi and Ao Nam Mao Beach is an even smaller village between Krabi and Ao Nang. None of this I fully appreciated when I booked myself into Diamond Beach Resort in Ao Nam Mao. So with a little Goldilocks luck, I stumbled upon something “just right”.

Krabi Province – Krabi Town, Ao Nam Mao, Railay & Ao Nang

Krabi, like Papa Bear, is too big and disheveled for my liking and Ao Nang like Mama Bear has her good points and the beach is lovely and comfortable….but the Ao Nam Mao Beach is like Baby Bear and it is “just right”. In a snug little cove in a small village, my hotel faces out to the Andaman Sea and in the far distance is the island of Koh PiPi.

My Cabin Exterior – Veranda Made for Sitting Out

The Village itself boasts the usual 7-11, food markets, massage parlours and restaurants along the main strip but walking past the main strip and down along the beach are several beachfront hotels with night life, restaurants and nice beachfronts. Much less busy than either Krabi City or Ao Nang.

Closest Swimming Beach to Diamond Resort – 10 minute walk

I did make day trips to each of Krabi City and Ao Nang Beach and was rewarded for my efforts but I did so enjoy my quiet days on Ao Nam Mao beside a lovely pool and staying in a wonderful little Thai style cabin. The staff were friendly and seemed genuinely happy to see you and the room included breakfast which although repetitive was convenient and went until 10:00 am. The Diamond Beach Resort I would recommend even though the beach itself was tidal and mud bottomed, there was a sandy beach just up from the resort.

Saying Farewell to the Breakfast Ladies at Diamond Resort

Ao Nang

My day in Ao Nang was nice, lots of shops, restaurants, souvenirs and tour operators. Everyone seemed relaxed and happy to be crowded together there and the white sandy beach was lovely. It was hard to find a shaded spot but I managed to squeeze in between two groups under a palm and enjoy a few swims. A late dinner at an Indian Restaurant and I made my way back Ao Nam as I came, in a Grab, Asias equivalent to Uber only much cheaper. The drivers here are welcoming but most speak very little English.

Krabi City

I went to Krabi City in the evening for two reasons, one was to visit the night market and the other was to dine at a floating restaurant on the Krabi River. I enjoyed both the market and my dinner but the city itself was not too enthralling.

Railay Beach

Another day trip was to Railay Beach, which I was surprised to see was covered in resorts, shops, restaurants, tour guides, activities etc.. For some reason I thought it was just a day beach destination. It was a lovely trip on a long tail boat which I took from the pier close to my hotel.

Rock Formations Jut Right Out of the Ocean

I spent the day wandering the shops, sunning and swimming and came across my first fellow travellers whose language was English. So many Europeans here, I wish I spoke French or German but I did meet two women from Argentina and so we were able to chat for a while in Spanish. One of the women was a police officer in Buenos Aires.

Koh Lanta

Koh Lanta is a beautiful Island south of Krabi City, accessible by boat or by bridge. I opted for a passenger ferry that left from Ao Nang and landed in Koh Lanta an hour and a half or so later. It was a lovely sunny crossing and although getting on and off the passenger ferries is akin to herding cats, and you’re one of the cats. Bodies and bags are flung about until all and sundry are safely on a pier where the hustle and bustle of Tuk-tuk touts and drivers reel you in for a fast trip out of there to your hotel.

Leaving Krabi

In my case the Lanta Resort which shared a similar name and designation to an Aparthotel some miles past the real Lanta Resort. Oddly it even came up on hotels.com map incorrectly. I was dropped in the wrong place but some lovely ladies in an office helped out, got things sorted and I was on my way back to the proper place.

The main road that runs parallel to the western beaches is one long line of commerce: restaurants, grocery shops, ATM’s, tour companies, bars, massage parlours, moto rentals, tin roofs, and mangy dogs wandering in and out of the ramshackle buildings and the traffic. This initial approach to paradise can be off putting but once you are off the main road and down the avenues to your hotel your view of the place mellows dramatically.

I stayed on what is called Long Beach, which it is. A long strip of white sand beach and aquamarine water lapping the shore in gentle waves. Rarely an inch of land along the beach lies fallow. Most resorts back on to the beach with restaurants, beach loungers, massage huts, cafes and even mini-marts lest you forgot your sun cream.

Multiple tours and activities are available on Koh Lanta including snorkeling trips to smaller island nearby. I opted for a boat tour of the Mangroves which included lunch at a look-out and time to wander the old village of Koh Lanta.

All in all a great stay on Koh Lanta, maybe just not long enough! And now it’s on to Phuket Island to discover the what treasures await me there.

Bangkok 2026

Solo travel in Bangkok with so much to do!

I first came to Bangkok in the ‘80’s and let me start by saying….it is not the same place. Sure, maybe tucked, squeezed, forgotten, pushed under bridges, down back lanes and clinging to river channels, the old Bangkok survives under the long shadows of glassy eyed skyscrapers that in no way bear resemblance to my memories of the first visit.

Changed as it is, I loved it all…..the remnants of days gone by and even the enthusiastic embracing of commercialism. One thing that is not gone for sure is the wonderful warmth, friendliness and hospitality of the Thai people. And, of course Thai cuisine, from 5 star Michelin restaurants to steamy food carts serving street food, Bangkok has it all.

New Bangkok Skyline Dwarfs the Old Style Street Scenes

A Place of Quiet & Gratitude Among the Hustle & Bustle

I was just lucky when I booked a room at the Oakwood Hotel and Residences in the Sathorn district. Situated a short walk from “everything”, I was able to take trains, ride the river boats, walk to shops, eat and drink and sleep comfortably in a decent hotel.

Close to my hotel was a street food market, a moderate shopping mall and a 7-11. On the streets around the hotel you could buy baisered corn on the cob, fresh fruit and other snack type food most of which were a mystery to me.

Since my stay was short and I had very clear memories of the Royal Palace, the Royal yachts, and several of the Wats I chose to spend my time visiting places that would be new to me.

Culture and Malls Go Together?

The sky trains in Bangkok are easy to navigate and ticket booths and machines are both easy to understand.

Buying a 20 Baht ticket, I headed off to see the Bangkok Art & Cultural Centre which turned out to be connected by a pedestrian causeway to a jumbo mall.

Bangkok Art & Culture Centre

Entrance is free at the Art & Cultural Centre and ironically included exhibitions by youth and “kids” themed on pitfalls of commercialism.

Real Live Interaction…Not On-Line as Depicted by A Young Artist Who Enjoys Sharing Food with Friends

Homes Squeezed In Regardless of the Urban Landscape

The interior of the building is reminiscent of the Guggenheim in NYC and exhibits are coiled around a centre atrium with arts shops tucked in back corners.

The final exhibit on the top coil was an homage to the suffering of the people of Myanmar under the current regime.

Chart Shows Number and Cause of Deaths in the Current Conflict

Mega Mall – MBK

Ironically, you step out the door of the Cultural Centre and you come face to face with the sprawl of urban commercialization being questioned in the youth exhibit.

The MBK Mall as it is called, is crowded, busy, noisy….housing small business, brand names, entertainment, services, restaurants all cheek to jowl over at least 6 floors. Each floor a rabbit warren of stalls. I think these are the same street merchants that I saw in the 80’s but they’ve been moved inside with AC?

I headed to the 6th floor to the electronics bazaar to buy a charger cord to replace one left on the plane. Booth after booth, hundreds of sellers, “brand names” (maybe) , definite knock-offs, and after-market items spread across what must be an acre or more of retail space.

Cord in hand I rode the escalators back down to the ground floor and outside to the National Stadium sky train station. Mission accomplished.

Another Kind of Mall Featuring Thai Culture

I was lucky enough that I was able to meet up with some friends of friends and we went to the most spectacular restaurant for dinner. The restaurant was on the top floor of the Iconsiam Mall, which is on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. The front of the mall is terraced with outdoor patios and restaurants with gorgeous city and river views.

The Chao Phraya Busy with Dinner Cruise Boats

Front and Top Floor Restaurants Where We Dined

Grandiosely titled “Iconsiam” the mall is definitely meeting its aspiration of Icon status. Unlike the MBK mall it is a temple of brand names. No knock offs here folks. Every level is gathered around marble floored atriums and riding the steep escalator to great heights means you look down over the miniature people below (not for someone with a fear of heights).

Indoor Floating Market Featuring Regions of Thailand

The bottom floor of the Iconsiam mall is designed to resemble a floating market and is divided into the cardinal regions of Thailand with shops and restaurants given over to the traditions, food and wares of each region. It’s a great place to eat inexpensively, all while giving a sense of the Regions of Thailand.

Chao Phraya River – Best Way to Get Around

Traffic is so thick and ponderous in Bangkok it’s inevitable that you find yourself commuting on the Chao Phraya River. A long snake of a thing that passes through the city on its way to Gulf of Thailand, it beats snarled traffic hands down.

On the River, there is a tourist “hop on hop off” boat and for 150 THB it allows you to stop at many of the main tourist sights. A lovely way to feel somewhat of a breeze off the water in a hot and humid city. As I said, I gave the usual sights a miss but headed for China Town, the Iconsiam pier where I had some unfinished shopping business and the Asiatique.

The Asiatique

The Asiatique is a cluster of shops and buildings representative of Thai architecture from 1907-1947. The buildings have been renovated while staying true to their original design. The stop gives you a good idea of what life style and foreign trade were like along the river during colonial times. Thailand proudly resisted colonization, but was surrounded by nations that succumbed. There’s also a 60 m high Ferris wheel and although I didn’t have time to ride it, it supposedly has great views.

China Town

A labyrinth of narrow lanes and a jumble of shops and restaurants, Bangkok’s China Town was a fun wander and surprisingly I stumbled upon one of the best iced coffees just when I needed a chair with AC. Apparently bean roasting has become a thing.

I also had Thai food in a Chinese Restaurant that had so much AC I asked to have a fan turned off. Good food though. Bangkok’s China Town is said to be one for the oldest and biggest in the world where generations of Chinese merchants and their families continue to make it their home.

Cityscapes from the Chao Phraya

The Tourist Boat is a must do in Bangkok as far as I’m concerned, you can visit famous Buddhist temples like Wat Yannawa built 242 years ago, you can see the giant golden Buddha reclining in the Wat Pho and everyone must see the gemstone adorned Grand Palace and the Wat Phra Kaew which houses the Emerald Buddha the symbol of Thailand.

Throughout the day I travelled the length of the tourist boat route and was lucky enough to be on board and have a seat (rather crowded) in time for the sunset.

And so ends my time in Bangkok, so glad I came, although four days was enough to accomplish getting over jet lag and seeing what changes 40 some odd years had brought to the city. And now I will fly to the province of Krabi in the south of Thailand.

Phu Quoc Island a Tropical Paradise

Phu Quoc is a tropical island in the Gulf of Thailand. It belongs to Vietnam but lies closer to Cambodia. It is easily reached on a short 50 minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City, over the mighty Mekong Delta and is well worth a visit.

After two plus months of traveling throughout SE Asia, Phu Quoc was a welcome beach vacation destination. Admittedly there are many touristy things to do on Phu Quoc but if you’re me and your somewhat tired of shifting about, sitting still on a white sandy beach under some palm trees for a week or more is a welcome respite.

There are several different areas to stay on Phu Quoc and we booked way back in October in an area quite far from the main town of Duong Dong. First impressions along the highway and the side roads may not be favorable, there is a lot of garbage and the ubiquitous unruly collection of traffic, businesses and residences that I have come to associate with SE Asia.

But once you are off the beaten track and you have arrived at your accommodation, then hopefully you will find what we did at the Camellia Hotel & Spa, (spa because you can arrange to have a massage there). We had booked this hotel well in advance and by Vietnamese standards we paid a high price, 63.00 CAD per night, if we’d waited we would have paid much less, maybe even half.

The rooms were big, well appointed and the pool and free breakfast offset the distance to the beach, (about a 25 minute walk, although the hotel ad says 10). Sadly, the closest public beach was squeezed to a bare minimum by beach front hotels with private amenities so we opted to spend most of our day around the Camellia pool.

The area around the Camellia is very rural, as in….there were roosters, lots of roosters and we saw a new born calf, still wet and wobbly legged in the road right in front of our hotel. Nearby there were lots of restaurants and bars so we didn’t have far to go to eat and we found a variety of cuisines from French to western and of course local.

One evening we ventured into town by cab (pricey enough you wouldn’t want to do it everyday) had dinner and wandered through the night market. Lots of seafood of course, Phu Quoc being an Island.

Four nights passed quickly and it was time for my Canadian friends to head back to the chill of the Yukon, the poor things. I was to stay on for another nine nights and opted to shift to a “Retreat” Hotel closer to town. So glad I did, the An Nhien retreat lived up to it’s promised amenities with friendly helpful staff, healthy breakfast, massage, pool and beautiful tropical garden complete with a small stream full of fish and ornamental fountains. My room was a good size and done up like a cabana, very nice.

The hotel was a three minute walk to the beach and An Nhien shared a private beach with another hotel. Great place to the spend the days and the truth is I did little else. Swimming, reading, snoozing, contemplating and ruminating with very little movement from A to B. I didn’t even head back to town.

I met very few English speaking people on Phu Quoc, most other beach goers were from Russia. It is a close sun spot for them and plane loads arrive daily if not hourly.

I made a decision to return to England a week early when I heard that there was a Corona Virus quarantine in a small village in northern Vietnam. A week more in England seemed a good bargain given that the most fun you could expect to have in a quarantine situation would be to stay healthy. If I had only just started or was part way through my explorations I would have stayed on. But I am glad to have had the luxury of playing it safe and don’t feel that I have made too much of a concession. After all, I’m all tucked up at Heather’s in Brighton, drinking tea and watching Tellie and hoping that Vietnam is spared the spread of the virus.

Luang Prabang & Vientiane

All along the Mekong.

The other day, in Vientiane I saw a travel poster for Laos and the slogan read “Simply Laos”, which captures the natural beauty of the place perfectly. Not as sophisticated as Thailand it still has the charm of a country not yet overrun by tourism. The natural beauty of Lao is enchanting and the Mekong River, the lifeline of the country is where you can best feel the pulse of this unassuming country. Along the Mekong are several cities worth visiting. My first stop after the Slow Boat was Luang Prabang and then a short flight later I was in the capital, Vientiane.

Laos was colonized by the French and their influence is still seen in the cuisine, architecture and many Lao speak some French. There are many French tourists here as well. Once a royal kingdom, Lao was a French colony from 1893 to to the mid 1950’s, gaining full independence after a Japanese occupation in WWII. After Independence the country was divided with the US supporting of the Royal Lao Army and the USSR backing the Pathet Lao independence supporters who were aligned with the Vietnamese and the Khmer against the French. Laos has been left with the terrible legacy of having been bombed with 2,093,100 tones during the so called “secret war” by the Americans. There are museums that display the unexplored ordinance that littered the country and there are people who make a living making crafts from the metal as a way of using the terrible events to remind everyone of the horrors that resulted. In the end the communist backed faction won and in 1975 Laos People’s Democratic Republic was proclaimed. A social regime, they sent up to 50000 royalist to labour camps.

Laos was closed to the world until 1990 when it became possible to visit Laos and see the traditional, rural lifestyles that have changed little over this tumultuous history.

Luang Prabang

Whoever coined “Simply Lao” must have had Luang Prabang in mind. It is a quiet, unassuming city with a slow pace. The old city is host to lots of foreigners from all parts of the globe. The easiest way to get about is in a long-benched Tuk-Tuk which can dart in and our of traffic and around potholes with greater ease than a car. You can also rent bikes and scooters in Luang Prabang and this would likely be the safest of cities in which to do that. You can see the French influence throughout Luang Prabang in the architecture and you can certainly enjoy a croissant and cafe au lait at a vast number of little coffee bars and restaurants.

A lovely place to wander you can climb Phousi a hill in the center of town to visit the golden Buddhist stupa and from there get a good view of the surrounding area.

The signage below indicates the main sites to be seen in Luang Prabang and although certainly possible to see them all in one day, there is no rush and spreading them out over the course of a few days mixed with a few cafe au laits is a wanderers delight. The Do’s and Dont’s are a reminder to foreigners that our Lao hosts do not share our same customs and I thought it was a gentle and friendly reminder about some of the unacceptable behaviours. Could have used this on the boat with the Tourist Thugs I encountered.

Lunag Prabang boasts some fine food experiences and one in particular, stands out…. A Lao style barbecue at your table, you first load your tray from a long buffet filled with meats/seafood, followed by vegetables, herbs and spices. The sticky rice comes at the end as does the cashier who you pay before returning to your table to “cook” your selections. The individual charcoal braziers on each table are red hot and chunks of port fat are provided to grease the piping hot metal inverted colander on which you spread your food. So delicious and very popular, the place was packed. Other Lao dishes I tried were “Larp”, a minced meat salad and Tam Mak Hung, a very spicy salad made from shredded green papaya, garlic, chillies, lime juice and fish paste. Noodle soups are also very popular and eaten for breakfast. It is served with lettuce, mint, coriander leaves and bean sprouts on the side. The best deserts, in spite of the French influence are the fresh fruits; guava, lychee, rambutan, mangosteen and pomelo. Mmmm good as is or whipped into a smoothy.

The Royal Palace Museum is another place to visit but was closed while I was there, all except the grounds which were interesting in themselves.

An evening stroll along the Mekong reveals the place to be for an evening of Lao food and people watching. Tons of restaurants line the banks and invite passerby’s to tarry over drinks and dinner and while being mesmerized by the Mekong.

Such a safe place, Luang Prabang is nice even at night and the Main Street is transformed into a very busy and long night market full of crafts and souvenirs. There are some beautiful fabrics and so many other things to buy and so little suitcase space to carry them home.

There are many day trips you can do from Luang Prabang and I chose to visit the multi-level Kuang Si waterfalls. Before you make the trek up to the falls you pass through a bear sanctuary, which was completely unexpected. There were dozens of bears enclosed in large spaces where they are free to wander, play and live out their days. Signage tells that there are no longer safe wilds for the bears in Laos, mainly thanks to poachers and deforestation. The poachers captured and killed the bears particularly for use in Chinese medicines. So sad, they can never be released.

The Kuang Si falls are beautiful shades of blue and the pools of water that form at their feet are great for swimming. A little on the cold side but being a west coast Canadian, I quickly adapted and enjoyed the refreshing waters. A little disconcerting are those self same little fish found in pedicure tanks that eat your dry dead skin. If you keep your feet moving though they are kept at bay.

The trail that leads up and along the falls is through a beautiful tropical forest and definitely is enjoyable on its own. The plant, flower and tree species are well marked and you can read about the wild life prevalent in the area as well. And in English, thank you to our Lao hosts.

The bride above is not intentionally included with the flora and fauna but is there simply because she was there, along the trail, posed, and anyone with camera in hand would be hard put to resist the intrusion.

Vientiane – The Capitol of Laos

My regret about Luang Prabang is that I spent only two nights there, saving my last four Laos nights for Vientiane. I wish that I had reversed that decision and enjoyed more of “Simply Laos”. Even though I read and did some research I fear that I thought there was more to do in Vientiane and that it too would reflect the “simply Laos” sentiment. There are some famous Pagodas in Vientiane but I visited the ruins of one that have an historical connection to the Khmer from Cambodia and resemble those that I saw in Ankhor Wat. Wandering the streets I marvelled at the electrical installations and wondered how a problem could ever be solved in the event of having to unravel the trail of tangled wires.

There are French architectural influences including a street compared to the Champs Élysées and an arch commemorating Independence. In front of the Arch is a remarkable sculpture made from blue and white porcelain cylinders. Until you are up close it’s hard to see how that is possible. At the opposite end of the street to the Arch is the Presidential Palace and in between the Morning Market is a great place to wander and see what’s for sale. The Lunar New Year was about to happen and signs of the upcoming celebration were everywhere.

I made good use of my four days in Vientiane, catching up on laundry, correspondence and the last night I had dinner with some “Slow Boat” friends. We strolled along the riverfront, visited the a night market with plenty of things for sale and many food stalls. There were also a number of rides and games for the whole family. We had decided on a South Indian Restaurant listed as the number one choice in Trip Advisor. We were not disappointed at the Flavours & Spices.

Next stop Vietnam!

Chiang Mai Thailand

Chiang Mai the peaceful…a great place to regroup.

Joined Dawn and Craig, my travelling buddies at a air BnB condo in Chaingmai. The condo was the size of a postage stamp by Canadian standards we nonetheless had our own bedrooms and bathrooms. Nice building, with all the mod cons like a washing machine and with a roof top pool and lovely views of the city.

Chaing Mai is very big, our taxi driver told us it could take 5 hours to travel from the north end to the south end of the city. But the heart of Chaing Mai is the old walled city. A very large area, one can see ruins of the old wall and the moat is still there and makes for great strolling and people watching. You can enter the old city through some of the ancient gates, there are other entrances but not as romantic sounding.

Inside the labyrinth that is the old city you will be accosted by the sights and sounds that are born out of the proximity of homes, hotels, inns, restaurants, bars, outdoor markets, tuktuks, motos, cars, temples, Wats etc., all zipped up together by narrow lanes and wider arteries that are not necessarily the fastest routes. A great walking space it doesn’t really matter if you are lost or which direction you head you can always google map your way out, but in the meantime you will be rewarded with something interesting at every turn.

Inside the walls we shopped, dined, wandered, people watched, visited temples and watts and rested our tired feet while sipping fresh fruit smoothies. Friends from Canada have Thai friends that own a restaurant called the Blue Diamond. A wonderful place and Nee gets up at 4:00 am to bake for the deli section of the bakery. It looks, smells and tastes wonderful. I had met Nee and Eed, her husband, in Nanaimo last summer and they were so gracious and warm when I visited the Blue Diamond. If I was staying in Chiang Mai this would definitely become a regular place for me.

One day we hired a driver, Bon Bon, to take us to a few spots we wanted to visit outside of Chiang Mai. The first was the Kanjana Elephant Sanctuary (www.kajanaelephantsancuary.com) if you need to look it up. We chose this sanctuary because it is not a “riding” camp, which is now frowned upon and with good reason. The elephants at Kanjana are very used to people. There weren’t many, I think six, all female and all former “work” elephants with the exception of a two year old who was born in the sanctuary. After “suiting” us up in protective shirts and pants we were taken to prepare squash to feed the elephants, a little bribe to make them like us. Feeding them was quite an experience, for one thing you had to watch your toes, then you had to give them commands that indicated that they could take the food with their trunks or that you were going to insert the food right into their mouths so they would have to raise their trunks. The inside of an elephants mouth is an experience in itself. It is soft and made up of many lumpy large folds of tongue like flesh. They are sticky and damp and your hand comes out the same way.

They were so hungry and as the guide at the sanctuary said they like to poop, eat and bathe and it sounds like several of them deserve to do exactly that after hard lives in logging and farming. They have been replaced by machinery of course and were too much trouble and expense to keep as pets; that is why there are elephant camps all over Thailand, many with the best of intentions. None of the elephants will leave the sanctuary, they will spend the rest of their days there and one in particular with a broken leg was very sad and it was good to know she had a safe haven.

After feeding we walked with the elephants down to the river and gave them a good scrubbing with wire brushes. They loved it and rolled around in the water, between the people and the elephants spraying each other with water we were pretty wet by the end of bath time and we all walked back to the main camp. For $60 CAD it was well worth the experience and I like to think the elephants benefit.

After the elephant sanctuary we motored on to the “Sticky Falls” in Chet Si Fountain National Park. A beautiful forested park, with camp sites, hiking trails, picnic areas and of course the sticky falls, so named because you can actually walk up and down the falls without slipping (too much). The water was refreshing and not too cold and the falls were so steep in sections we had to use ropes to climb up or down.

Feeling clean and refreshed we headed to Baan Tong Luang, an eco-agricultural hill tribes village. Many of the people who live here are refugees from Myanmar. To quote the brochure “ Baan Tong Luang hill tribes community has been founded since 2003. To preserve the traditional way of life of the tribes and help families and tribes who work for the Maesa Elephant Camp. To remain in its original life, which cannot be found in the present day.”

There are eight ethnic tribes living together in this community. They live in traditional style building, each according to their cultural practice and the arts and crafts that are mainly handmade are sold in their section of the village. Each tribe has very different characteristics in their work but all of it is colourful and beautiful from baskets to tapestries. One group is the long necked people called the Karens. Only the women wear the neck bracelets that weigh enough to force their rib cages down, giving their necks an elongated appearance.

For me the idea of an “indigenous” center made for tourists to come and see the culture and history of these different groups could be problematic but my sense here was that the people were safe and supported, living a peaceful existence quite different from the lives they had to flee in times of war and turmoil. Interestingly these tribes originated in many different places; Tibet, Myanmar, China with many migrating to Thailand in the 1980’s.

Bon Bon our driver spoke pretty good English and he answered our millions of questions about Thai society, daily life, military service, being a monk, the cost of living, etc etc. He was probably happy when the last stop of the day came and he let us lose at the Phra Borommathai Doi Suthep Temple on the top of a mountain above Chiang Mai. With a gondola to take us to the top, thank God, as we had walked and climbed a lot since morning, we were impressed enough with the Temple itself but there were also outstanding views of Chiang Mai in The Valley below.

The markets in Chiang Mai deserve a mention of their own. On Sunday evening there is a street market that goes on for blocks and blocks, selling handicrafts, art, clothing, food and household goods to mention a few things. There is also the Chiang Mai night market a permanent set-up with terrific street food and again blocks and blocks of stalls selling everything imaginable. The markets themselves are a work of colourful vibrant art. The atmosphere is upbeat and people go the markets to shop, dine and enjoy live music and people watching.

Our last night we took a dinner cruise on the Ping Mae River which was somewhat of a disappointment. We were picked up at the condo and drove around until the van was full of cruisers. At the river we were shepherded down to the boat and given dinner which was mediocre and then set off on the cruise. Since it was night time it was dark and the only time you could really see anything was when we passed a brightly lit restaurant or bar. There were some very nice homes along the river and some upscale restaurants. Not sorry I did it but wouldn’t do it again.

So arrangements have been made, Dawn and Craig leave for Krabi and Koh Lanta in the south of Thailand in the morning and I take a van north through Chiangrai to Chiangkhong where I will overnight before crossing over the Friendship bridge into Lao.

Old Town Phuket

Surin, Kamala, Pukhet & Karon Beaches

Surin Beach

Kamala Beach

Patong Beach

Karon Beach

Patong and Surrounding Areas

Banga Street & Shopping Zone

Big Buddha

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Krabi Province

Koh Lanta

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Culture and Malls Go Together?

Another Kind of Mall Featuring Thai Culture

Chao Phraya River – Best Way to Get Around

The Asiatique

China Town

Cityscapes from the Chao Phraya

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