shopping – Page 2 – Wander With Stella

Sri Lanka – Part 5 Last Days in Kandy & Negumbo

Kandy is an interesting mix of old and new…

Kandy was a pleasant surprise. At first it looked like just another polluted city but having a few days there we were able to discover some hidden treasures well worth the effort.

We discovered that our hotel was a short walk to the main shopping district and we easily made our way there on foot. A busy place with a beehive of stalls selling everything you could imagine, the fruit and vegetable stalls blaze with enticing colour. Of course there was stall after stall of spices and teas mixed in with an abundance of trinkets and souvenirs. A fun place to be as long as you can tolerate the touts and the hard sell. The pushy salesmen we encountered were older men and we heard the same spiel from several of them with the classic “hello mam you remember me we met yesterday at the hotel.” I imagine they were fast tracking a personal connection to encourage your cooperation.

Time was short and so on day two we hired a Tuk Tuk for the whole day in order to accomplish our list of must sees. and were whisked about town to see the highlights of the city. Our first stop was the Bahirawakanda Buddhist Temple high on a hill above the city where we had a birds eye view of Kandy.

From the centre of Kandy our Tuk Tuk driver took us out into a suburb to visit a tea factory where after a tour we tasted a variety of teas and bought a few bags to take with us. We learned something here. We thought we were buying tea in a certain packaging for gifts but didn’t inspect the bag when we left the factory. Later we discovered that the tea was not in the gift bags we had selected so we went back the next day and had it rectified.

Next stop was the Royal Botanical Garden. (Sorry but if there’s a garden I must visit). A pleasant but very hot way to spend a few hours. Our driver told us that it was unseasonably hot and normally would have been quite a bit cooler. The gardens had a good collection of over 4000 species of plants including orchids, medicinal plants, palms, ferns and woody trees and shrubs.

Our next stop was the Golden Buddha Temple on the shores of Lake Kandy. A most Holy place it contains the relic of a tooth that was said to be removed from Buddhas funeral pyre. The tooth is kept locked away but on special occasions it is opened for public viewing and as it happens that very evening was such an occasion and the President of Sri Lanka was to be in attendance.

Gold Buddha Statue at the Temple of the Tooth Relic

Our final stop was a Cultural Centre for a performance traditional dance and music. The performers were very skilled and brightly costumed. The show highlighted the distinctive history and culture of the Sri Lankan people.

Kandy is an interesting place. As in all of Sri Lanka, Buddhists, Christians, Muslims and Hindus coexist in spite of the turbulent past that resulted in a protracted civil war. For the Buddhist majority, temples abound, but Muslim calls to prayer are broadcast throughout the day, colourful Hindu celebrations take place in the streets and Christian Church Bells ring.

Contrasted against the old style commercial centre, mushrooming out from ancient temples and other historic monuments, you can find trendy restaurants, art galleries and even a high end western style mall. The two restaurants below are examples of a growing middle class of well educated Sri Lankans who have the time and money to enjoy trendy eateries. Like in India, education is clearly highly valued and Sri Lanka has one of the highest levels of literacy in South Asia.

Leaving Kandy was a bit sad as it signalled the end of our circle tour of two weeks. Relying on our car hire specialist we made our way back to Negombo, where we began our Sri Lankan adventure. A night in a nice hotel on the beach with a lovely big pool never goes amiss. It gave us time to stare at the waves and watch the sunset behind the tall palms, contemplating the highlights of Sri Lanka before catching our flight back to Gatwick.

Last Tuk Tuk Ride Through Kandy

Sri Lanka – Part 4 Sigiriya – Cultural and Historical Heart of Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka history & Culture in the Central Highlands

Arriving in Sigiriya we were very disappointed in our home stay tree house at the Thick Forest. Having friends who recently stayed in a Tree House it did not measure up. It was a ramshackle mosquito haven, dirty and a little shaky. The mosquito sleeping nets had holes and were so old they smelled musty. To add insult to injury we paid more than the usual rate for this experience. The owner begged us not to write a bad review and brought out a book in which he has customers write “complaints” and “suggestions” It was full of unhappy customers but the last time we left a warranted bad review on a booking website we were harassed. Cutting our losses we checked out a day early and went to a lovely home stay with a pool for the same price per night and had a far better breakfast and dinner, it was spotless, had a great pool and the family was delightful. Don’t go to Thick Forest….stay at Sigiriya Peacock Homestay.

Climbing Sigiriya Rock Up To The Lion Fortress

Sigiriya is a town and and ancient city located close to the town. It is awesome, it is a once in a lifetime experience to be there and to climb the great rock. It is a historical and archaeological site that is dominated by a massive column of granite about 180 meters high. As a UNESCO world heritage site is very popular with both Sri Lankans and foreigners. Would you believe that one of the ancient kings built his palace on top of this rock and decorated its sides with colourful frescoes. It is a steep 1200 step climb to the top of the rock to see the remains of the palace, but it seemed like more in the intense heat of the day.

Entrance fees for foreigners are relatively high, about $35 USD, but not begrudged because the money goes to maintaining this marvellous place. You enter the Park and the first stop is a museum that details the long line of Kingdoms that existed here and the archaeological history of various digs that have taken place since the 1800’s. It is thought that Buddhist monks occupied the rock caves and shelters from as early as the 3rd Century BC. The grounds leading up to the Rock are beautiful and full of ponds and gardens and of course monkeys.

As you start the climb you see immediate evidence of the structures that existed at the foot of the rock. The first 900 or so steps are pretty steep and several stops help make the going easier. Taking your time is essential unless you are young and fit.

About half way up there is a gateway in the form of an enormous lion. Only the claws remain but imagine when the rest of the body and head were intact, it would have been impressive indeed. All this brick work covered with plaster and painted with frescoes is hard to imagine. The Lions paw is a rest stop for sure and there is filtered water for those who have run out. The views from this level are spectacular enough but only serve to fuel the desire to reach the top another 40 meters or so.

The last bit as seen below wasn’t too bad because people moved slowly up the steep steps and as you can see there was quite a crowd. There was no pushing or shoving and for the most part the crowd was Sri Lankan.

Reaching the top was epic for me. The 360 degree views were amazing and you could see that the King who had the palace built could easily survey his Kingdom for miles in every direction. Supplying the palace with the necessities of life was carried out by servants who climbed up and down the rock but the Royals who lived on top were carried up and down in a palanquin. Across from Sigiriya is another Rock, Pindurangala Rock and people with more time and energy will climb it as well.

I couldn’t tell you how long it took to climb Sigiriya, the trek up was so engrossing that I completely lost track of time. I felt on top of the world when I got there and on the way down there was plenty of time to enjoy the views and admire the frescoes that adorned the rock walls. You haven’t been to Sri Lanka until you’ve been to Sigiriya!

Buddhist Caves

After a good night’s rest our next outing was to visit the Rangiri Dambulla Cave Temple another Unesco World Heritage Site. A pilgrimage site for 22 centuries, it is the largest and most well-preserved cave-temple in Sri Lanka. The temple is a series of five caves built into the wall of the rock mountain. The Temple has been transformed over the centuries and each of the caves or sanctuary has its own purpose and design. Altogether there are 157 statues important to the life and practice of Buddhism. It’s quite a climb to get up to the caves but nothing like Sigiriya, but like Sigiriya the rock carved stairs are uneven and sometimes very steep.

Girithale and Polonnaruwa

Staying in Girithale at the Agbo Hotel gave us quick access to Polonnaruwa another ancient city site that has undergone extensive archaeological activity.

The Agbo Hotel was one of our favourite stays and our rooms had great views of a lake and the surrounding forest and hills. It also had a large band of monkeys that frequented the property and we were asked to keep our balcony doors closed in the morning and when we were out for the day. However we decided to take our morning tea on the balcony as there was no evidence of monkeys in the vicinity. Enjoying the peaceful view we were startled to realise that some of the red faced nasty mean type macaques (remember they were entertaining in previous blogs) had snuck up on us and one of them leapt up onto our table and attacked our sugar bowl before we could even move. Greedily shovelling the sugar into his mouth with both hands and in between defending his right to it by baring his sharp pointy teeth and hissing at us, completely ignoring our attempts to shoo him away. We were forced to retreat inside but every time we moved he lunged at us, but with some sideways sidling and a chair as a means of defence we both made it safely back inside slamming the sliding door behind us. The monkey then took over the table and made short work of the sugar and the milk with the milk jug being the collateral damage in his rampage.

Mean Monkey

Polonnaruwa

We hired a Tuk Tuk through our hotel and had another great ride through the jungle and the towns on the way to Polnnuarwa.

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Polonnaruwa is a a huge ruin dating back to the 11th Century and was the capital city until the 13th Century. The area of the city is huge and it was much easier to see the different sections by Tuk Tuk and one ticket is all you need to get into each section. With hundreds of ancient structures, tombs, temples, statues and stupas it is well worth a visit.

A prosperous city, well situated for trade and defence it was known as a garden-city and irrigation was used extensively in the ancient city. The city was eventually abandoned and overtaken by jungle after a series of civil wars and invasions.

The main event seems to be the Quadrangle as it is known, a huge collection of buildings in a small area, it is considered a holy site and proper dress (no bare knees or shoulders) is required for entry.

Cooking Lesson – A Definite Highlight

We loved our cooking lesson at Jaga Food Restaurant in Polonnaruwa. We Tuk Tukked it back to the restaurant with our now regular driver, Janaka Sudam. Our excellent teacher, Angelee, spoke English and her youngest two children were being sent to an English school so they had a pretty good grasp of what we were saying. It was a family affair with the two older sons and husband all in attendance. The second oldest son is studying Japanese and was doing his homework atone of the restaurant tables.

The clay pots that are used on the wood-fired ovens are seen all an over Sri Lanka. Roadside stands will have hundreds of pots of all sizes on display.

Our Cooker – Temperature Control with Positioning of Wood

Anjalee Wickramasinghe of Jaga Food Restaurant

Master Coconut Grinder- Only the Freshest Ingredients

Of course when all was said and done we sat down to twelve dishes, Anjalee added rice and custard with treacle for dessert and we implored our driver to join us to help out, there were so many dishes. Another one of my favourite things to do in Sri Lanaka. Thank you Anjalee and family, we so enjoyed our time with you.

Back to the Malabar Coast of Kerala

Brilliant Green Rice Paddies Peak Out Along the Shores

The Backwaters of Kerala – don’t miss this experience in India

Every guide book and every hotel pamphlet and tourism booth and Tuk Tuk driver will tell you the “Backwater” experience is a must in Kerala and I couldn’t agree more. What could be better than a day on the water in one of the converted Kettuvallom boats that were used to transport goods in the many waterways winding between islands and the mainland, There are several places to start your Backwater Cruise, but I chose Alleppey. (Allapuzza another one of its names) Lucky for me the skies were clear, it was hot, but at 7:00 pm the a/c comes on in your cabin about the time that the temperature drops to a comfortable 33 degrees Celsius.

My boat was lovely and had an upper and lower fore deck, with a dining area and the rest was individual state rooms. Mine had a double bed its own bathroom and windows out to the water on both sides. The other passengers were Indian families for the most part. There were only about 12 of us altogether.

For the most part people sat close to the fans suspended to the dining room ceiling as we cruised along enjoying the views and life along the banks of the waterways. I was sitting enjoying music that was playing on a set of very large speakers when the parents of some teenagers left, leaving their prodigy behind. Immediately the music and volume changed and I realised that the teens were blue-toothed to the speakers. I thought hmmmmm…. I then blue toothed to the speakers pressed play and before I knew it Pavarotti won the cage match of music styles and the teens exited the dining room. I didn’t actually intend to play some opera but it was in the queue so it just happened. Sorry teenagers!

These houseboats are remodelled versions of Kettuvalloms that were once used to carry large amounts of produce. With the changing times, they have now evolved into literal hotels on the water that are equipped with all facilities that one can find on land. The view of rural Kerala from the houseboats is spectacularly serene and pastoral in contrast to the mayhem of road tripping.

Multi-day, Overnight and Day-Trippers Pass in the Channels

Some Boats More Resplendent than Others (Day-Trippers)

Fish Market & Grocery Store – Life Along the Canals

After drifting along for several hours we stopped at a fish market and the boat’s cook was there to say that if you wanted seafood to go ahead and buy it and he would take it back to the boat and prepare it for dinner. I bought prawns and treated myself to a small Pepsi of all things. That’s what thirst will do to you in a hot country.

Brilliant Green Rice Paddies Peak Out Along the Shores

Canals Lined with Homes, Villages and Farms

A lazy day of floating along staying cool in the air stream of electric fans, we watched the sun set beneath the palm trees.

Sleeping on board was peaceful, quiet and the sky was star filled. So nice to rock to sleep looking out across the water at the lights of settlements. After breakfast we returned to Alleppey and disembarked where my fearless driver Srihari was waiting to take me further south to Varkala and Novalam the beach destinations situated outside of the capital of Kerala, Thrivarnum.

Varkala & Narvalam – Beach Towns

Having one night in Varkala seemed enough, as pretty as it was and how nice the beach was it seemed like too much of a backpackers destination, without enough Indian flavour for my liking. The handful of people that were on the beach were European.

Thirarnum & Narvala Beach

So I took a Tuk Tuk the next day to Thirarnum had a bit of a tour of the city and headed to Navvarlam where I indulged myself in a upmarket hotel situated right on the beach. The hotel had such an interesting turnover of Indian guests: wedding guests, Hindu Pilgrams, Valentines sweethearts and family groups from all parts of India. I took the half board food package, meaning I had a buffet breakfast and dinner and I must say both meals were quite delicious and I was able to sample a huge variety of dishes all with English name tags which was very helpful.

Although Indian English is a different dialect from my English, it is the common language for a country with over 700 languages according to a linguistic survey that I found on Mr. Goggle. For this reason I met a lot of people in Kerala who spoke English and their own language (Malayalam) but not Hindi as you might expect.

Leaving Trithurnam by Train

I had purchased a first class air conditioned train car to travel the three hour trip back to Kochi Airport to fly on to Sri Lanka the following day. The train car was fabulous I was taken to my seat by a porter who hoisted my luggage into the overhead racks, then the natty conductor in full conductor dress came by to greet me and welcome me, with a hand shake no less, to the train, then I was given a large bottle of water and a red rose and received a large tray of snacks, including pastries and chocolate. Quite the service and the seats were comfortable and the views inviting. I would highly recommend the train trip between Kochi and Trivurnam if you get the chance. A taxi to the President Airport Hotel from the train station and I am settled in for my overnight flight to Sri Lanka. So excited for this next part of my journey but a little sad to leave Kerala, God’s Own Country indeed.

Budapest for the Christmas Markets

As I was going to be in England and a friend mentioned Budapest for the Christmas Markets, I could hardly say no. I had never been to Hungary and it had long been on my list of places to visit. Just over a two hour flight from Heathrow we arrived late in the day and went by taxi to our air BnB in District V, the central area of Budapest.

As an introduction to the city we used the Hop on Hop off Bus which offered a perfect opportunity to have an overall view of the city, giving us ideas of what we wanted to make a point of getting back to for a longer look.

Written up as the most Beautiful Restaurant in the World but too long a line up!

Our BnB location was within walk distance of the St Stephen’s Basilica Christmas Market which in the end was our favourite of the markets. Seemed a little less crowded than some others, the food was wonderful and there was a light show set to the Nutcracker Suite beamed onto the front of the Basilica. Named after Stephen, the first King of Hungary, it is the largest church in Hungary and home to one of King Stephen’s mummified hands.

Love the sellers at the a Christmas Markets

The stalls were full of Hungarian Christmas goodies and crafts and sitting outdoors at picnic style benches and tables was not the least unpleasant in spite of the chill in the air.

Everything from candy to honey, home decor and the famous melt in your mouth chimney cakes made fresh at every market

The Danube River divides the Pest and Buda sides of Budapest and several bridges span the river, dotted with cruise boats and especially pretty at night. On the Pest side which is where we stayed are some of the sights we visited including the impressive Parliament Buildings, the Grand Market Hall, the Jewish Quarter surrounding the Dohány Street Synagogue and the museum dedicated to the memory of Holocaust victims.

One of many squares lit up for Christmas

The Jewish museum is well worth the visit, although it is gut wrenching to hear some of the stories and view the photos from Budapest during WW11, it is a necessary reminder, especially timely today. Visitors from all over and from all religions appear to be drawn to the Synagoue and Museum and certainly the interior of the synagogue is very impressive. The streets around the synagogue are great to wander after a visit and give you an idea of the density of Jewish population in that area at one time.

The National Museum of Hungary is housed in a stately palace. It is a vivid account to the lengthy and turbulent history of Hungary from the earliest of times to the present day and while there we took in a special exhibit called Brides of Hungary, a tribute to women in different time periods and the dresses that reflected the style of various decades. With feminist leanings it went beyond fashion and provided glimpse into the lives of women over time.

Bride’s Exhibit

The Grand Market is just that, huge, multi-layered and full of Hungarian art, craft, food, clothing, accessories and of course at this time of year Christmas gifts. Well worth a wander and not to be missed, the neighbourhood around the market is great for a wander as well.

On the Buda side of the Danube we visited Buda castle by taking the beautiful wooden funicular up the side of the hill to the castle itself. At the top we had a great view of the city on both sides of the river and were able to wander back to our hotel across the Chain Bridge, so names for the chains it hangs from.

Also on the Buda side of the river we visited the Gellert Thermal bath, one of many that make Budapest a draw for their healing properties. Built in the Art Nouveau style between 1912 and 1918, it has several hot baths each labeled with their particular temperature, a massive numbers of lockers, and spa services including massage. A bit of a maze and challenging to navigate it was a very relaxing way to spend a few hours.

The food in Budapest deserves special recognition and we were able to sample several notably Hungarian dishes and drinks including. As you can imagine Goulash or Gulyas was on most restaurant menus and served at the Christmas markets as well. A popular dish it is a hearty and warm stew filled with beef, paprika, onions and potatoes and sometimes served with spetzel like noodles. Delicious and warming especially outside at night.

Chicken paprikas (Csirke Paprikas) is astonishingly red because of the amount of sweet paprika mixed with tomatoes, garlic and sweet peppers in. Sour cream is added and delicious chewy dumplings make the dish very filling. A must try in Budapest in.

Of course the signature dish of Hungary is Goulash and nothing beats a warm bowl at an outdoor market.

We also indulged in Chimney Cakes which we saw cooked over barbecue coals at one market and in a special rotisserie like oven at another market. A doughnut like batter is wrapped around a wooden form and rotated over heat until done, sprinkled with sugar while it cooks gives a cartelized effect and when removed from the wooden form this confection stand erect like a chimney. Quite delicious and definitely shareable.

Meat Pancakes (Hortobagyi Palacsinta) are thin pancakes filled with savoury chicken or beef minced into small pieces. Once filled the pancakes are rolled into burrito like shapes and baked and then covered with a paprika sauce and of course a dollop of sour cream. Mmmmm

Stuffed Cabbage Leaves (Toltott Kaposzta) the Hungarian cabbage roll is made from cooked, pickled cabbage and filled with minced pork, paprika (of course) and rice. When I ordered this dish at a Christmas market it came with sausage and grilled vegetables and went down well with mulled wine.

A very popular dish with the Hungarians was a deep-fried flat bread (Langos), crispy on the outside while soft on the inside, it is sprinkled with cheese and topped off with sour cream. Looked delicious but one can only eat so much so I didn’t have the room to try it.

I hope to visit Hungary again when I have more time and I’m able to see other parts of the country. It has a quietness about it that you don’t find in other European Capitals. People seem less hurried and definitely friendlier, especially the people who work with tourists like myself. Until I return Budapest, keep your magic alive.

A Very English Christmas

A feast for the eyes and spirit…

When your nephew invites to his home in Westgate on Sea in Kent England for Christmas you would be a fool to say no. Although I had a fun week in Europe at the Christmas Markets my Very English Christmas was the purpose of my travels.

I arrived in at my nephews stone house on the shores of the North Sea in time to watch Christmas preparations unfold. My wonderful nephew and his family took great pains to make this a special Christmas, beginning with touring the local area visiting castles, villages, museums and cathedrals.

A Warn Welcome in a lovely home

Wild skies and lonely winter beaches along the Kent coast

Kent is know as the Garden of England and is famous for the White Cliffs of Dover, Canterbury Cathedral, Churchills home Chartwell & numerous castles, forts and manor houses.

Close to Westgate is Walmer Castle built during the reign of Henry the VIII as a coastal defense, the ownership of the castle has passed down through the centuries and is now a property managed by the English Heritage. It has eight acres of gardens which due to the stormy weather we only enjoyed from above in the dryness of the castle. One famous resident of the castle was the Duke of Wellington and his bed and boots are still there along with his story. Also close to Walmer Castle are Roman ruins where the forces of Rome launched their invasion of Celtic Britan.

We also drove along the coast to see Dover Castle which from the exterior is quite stunning in size, location and design but it was an extremely windy day and the castle itself was closed to safeguard would be tourists. We were however able to visit the underground tunnels original to the castle but used extensively during the Second World War. We weren’t allowed to take photos inside the tunnels but inside their own relics of WWII communications technology. Weather made photos impossible from outside so here is a photo from wikipedia of the Castle .

Dover Castle

Along the coast we visited a variety of places and walked through the towns and along the beaches and even in the winter there is a charm and beauty to Kent that comes from the magnificent skies, seaside towns and living history.

Coastal Towns of Kent, Ramsgate, Margate, Broadmear

One evening a group of us headed for Canterbury where we visited the Christmas Market and did some shopping in the historic centre before heading into the Cathedral for a Christmas service, the main attraction being the choral music, richly satisfying in this age old Cathedral with naturally fantastic acoustics.

My nephew, Christian and I spent three great days in London, renting an air bnb in Kensington we managed to buy same day tickets at discounted prices for the musical Tina and the play The Best of Enemies. Both were interesting to see but I think Covid has impacted the world of theatre greatly and these were two of the few things that I haven’t seen in various trips to London. Hopefully things will revive and there will be new playbills on the horizon.

My London traditions include “light seeing” along Regent and Oxford Streets, purchasing Christmas tea at Harrods, visiting Covent Gardens and spending some time in wine bars and pubs. I like to visit Trafalgar Square because both the National Gallery and Canada House are there and of course St. Martin’s in the Field, where if you’re lucky you can catch a Christmas Concert and have a bite to eat in the Catacombs below the church.

Christian and I said goodbye for a time while I headed off to meet friends in Oxford where we spent a weekend catching up, visiting (guess what) Christmas markets, pubs and seeing the various College buildings scattered around the University of Oxford.

After a fun time in Oxford I went back to Brighton with my friends and stayed for several nights. Long enough to walk the sea wall and watch the “sky show”above the English Channel. On the solstice Brighton celebrates the shortest day of the year with a pagan celebration known as Burning the Clocks. A parade of people with a variety of interesting lanterns made from rice paper and bamboo wend their way through the old narrow streets, ending at the beach where there is a giant bonfire to burn the lanterns and to add more light to the picture a boat is burned to acknowledge the coming of light as the days get longer.

Since the trains were on rotating strikes it was difficult to get from one place to another but a window op opportunity presented and I was able to take a train from Brighton back to Westgate on Sea just in time for Christmas. Eleven people were at the table and my hosts made the most wonderful dinner with of course Christmas pudding at the end.

To top it all off, for New Years, we drove clear across England from Kent to Polperro in Cornwall. This is a quaint stone house type fishing village with again a lengthy and rich history. Folks come to Polperro to celebrate New Years by wearing “fancy dress” or what we Canadians would call costumes. It was so much fun and in the post-covid world people were hungry to gather and celebrate with music, dance, food and drink and fireworks at midnight in the main square. I loved how people mingled with complete strangers, admiring each other’s costumes and sharing the joy of celebrating what hopefully will be a much better year in these interesting times.

I loved my English Christmas, I loved getting together with family, the variety of things I was able to see and do, the fun, witty, friendly people I always meet in the UK. Needless to say I will be back. Thanks to everyone who made my visit so stellar!

Advent in Germany & Austria

The Warmth of Christmas Markets

In the days running up to Christmas the world takes on a glow, people scurry about making their holiday preparations but perhaps one of the best traditions I’ve encountered are the German and Austrian Christmas markets. Outside in the cold sipping mulled wine (Gluwein) is surprisingly pleasant and warming. Town squares are festooned with rows of booths and throngs of locals gearing up for the Season. The booths invitingly lit and stuffed with various foods, sweets, games, toys, decorations etc.. You can never go hungry or thirsty at one of these markets as you squeeze between the crowds, navigating your way to the next booth for a Gluwein or a delicious German sausage!

I have travelled in Germany in the past but often to large cities and there one brushes up against the European International experience. On this trip to Germany I visited a friend and her family who live just outside of Munich. Utting is one of many small hamlets in this area known as the “Five Lakes” region. Utting is on the lake and if you look east and north to the end of the lake you can see the Alps. My friends family was warm and hospitable and shared food and traditions, including the lightening of the four candles on each Sunday leading up to Christmas Day. Great food and lots of laughs were shared.

A beautiful lake in Utting and in the summer there is a ferry to the other side and if you look down the lake you can see the Alps.

Nearby there are larger centers and during the days my friend and I drove to cities of Landsberg and Augsburg to see the sights and visit the Christmas Markets.

Landsberg

Landsberg is a smallish town on the beautiful Lech river and the settlement can be traced back more than 2000 years. There is a beautiful very old and ornate city hall with an information centre which has brochures in English if, like me, that’s what you are limited to.

The town square Christmas Market in Landsberg

A very tall tree.

Street Scenes as the afternoon wanes

Foot bridges and over the river and it’s branches that run right through the town.

City gates protected Landsberg in days gone by.

The River runs between the buildings and cascades at the widest point.

Landsberg Cathedral

Signs of what outdoor summer time is like in Landsberg

When the sunsets the Christmas Market comes alive

Delicious eats and warming drinks while you shop the stalls.

Augsburg

Next stop was the town of Augsburg, a city bigger than Landsberg and it too was in full Christmas Market swing. Founded under Roman rule Augsburg has roots that go back 2000 years making it one of Germany’s oldest cities. With a city centre boasting a grand shopping street, Maximillianstraus, and beautiful Baroque and Renaissance buildings fronting the main square where you will find the Christmas Market.

The rooftops of Augsburg

These giant homes, now apartments, offer a pastel palette to passers by.

The amazingly gilded government palace on the main square.

The market from above and down in the thick of things

Wide variety of foods and crafts make for interesting shopping experiences

My lovely guide and friend Andrea

Munich

Munich, Bavaria’s capital, is home to centuries-old buildings and numerous museums. The city is known for its annual Oktoberfest celebration and its beer halls, including the famed Hofbräuhaus, founded in 1589. In the Altstadt (Old Town), central Marienplatz square contains landmarks such as Neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (town hall), with a popular glockenspiel show that chimes and reenacts stories from the 16th Century.

In addition to which, Munich boasts the an impressive number of Christmas markets scattered around the city centre. The same array of food, drink and shopping as other markets but on a bigger scale. Impressive in all seasons I especially loved Munich at Christmas.

Munich Main Square

Sampling of Christmas Markets around the Main Square

Vienna

Next stop on my Advent tour was Vienna. A four hour train trip from Munich Vienna is no slouch either in the Christmas Market tradition. Having made a friend on a boat trip down the Mekong River I decided to visit, see Vienna and rekindle the friendship. So glad I did as Vienna was resplendent in all it’s Christmas glory.

Busy shopping street in Vienna

The not so blue Danube and one of the River Boats

In between visits with my friends I took the Hop on Hop Off Bus Tour of Vienna which has grown outwardly since I visited in the 80’s. There is so much to see and do in Vienna and it is truly a city for all seasons, but a winter visit does mean fewer tourists and more breathing room than what I remember.

Dinners out and visits to Christmas Markets kept me and my friends fed and entertained as Gluwein in hand, we sipped our way through the stalls.

Environmentally friendly, you pay a deposit for the non-disposable mugs and if you return them you get your euros back but if you wish to keep the mug as a souvenir that is fine.

My last day in Vienna, it snowed and that was an added bonus. Great white fluffy flakes falling on the city completed the Christmas spirit and I left glad that I had gone and hopeful to return to both Austria and Germany.

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Landsberg

Augsburg

Munich

Vienna

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