solo travel – Page 2 – Wander With Stella

Scotland

Scotland in the winter is no less beautiful than Scotland in its other seasons.

Scotland in the winter is no less beautiful than Scotland in its other seasons. Leafless trees are black lacy webs against ever changing skies. They edge the vistas of rolling hills, farm dykes and river ways. The countryside is surprisingly green for January, signs of rainy days just gone, but now the no temperature has dropped and low lying fog lolls in the valleys and standing water is glazed with thin sheets of ice.

Flying to Aberdeen from Gatwick seemed a better option when train prices were comparable but the flight took less than two hours. I am so blessed with having met friends traveling and or visiting at home and so I had a warm welcome at the Aberdeen airport and transport to Tullynessle where my friends Jane and Alan live on a farm just outside of Alford near Aberdeen.

They purchased their ‘listed’ historic stone farm house in the 80’s and brought this 100 plus year old property into this century, installing enough mod-coms to raise a family and establish careers and a keep a farm. A warm fire and nights spent watching tellie with days of outings to surrounding villages for lunch and shopping passed too quickly.

The farm of my host Alan and his family was certainly a favourite outing. I was shown around the farm and the various cow barns, organized according to when and if they would calve. The cows were huge and curious and would move close to the rails for a better look at their Canadian guest. Welcoming or snoopy, hard to say but not at all menacing. Even the 1000 pound bull named Charlie was quietly chewing his cud and paid us no attention as he reposed in his private stall.

A Wee Train Trip

Glasgow

Leaving my lovely friends and hosts in Tullynessle I ventured by train to Glasgow to stay with my friends Robert and Julie and their family, where I was reminded how lucky I am to know people in Scotland and England because you can’t beat the warmth of their hospitality. The scenic train from Aberdeen to Glasgow doesn’t seem long enough, so beautiful and clear was the day.

I had spent time in Glasgow in the past and Julie and I had wandered the city on foot to visit museums, gardens and art galleries and so on this visit, at my request, we ventured to the countryside around Glasgow.

On a day trip a short ways from Glasgow, we visited Mugdock Park where we walked the paths and around Mugdock Castle. The ruins of an old castle (no shortage of them in Scotland) were interesting.

On another excursion I finally laid eyes on Loch Lomond, made fast in my mind by the song I learned as a child. “You take the high road, and I’ll take the low road and I’ll be in Scotland afore ye…” Right…we all know the words.

We had a lovely walk along the lake where Robert partook of his passion….cold water swimming, declaring it to be much warmer than on Hogmanay.

Cold Water Swimming in Loch Lomond

Neither Julie nor I cared to test his theory. Instead we enjoyed a walk along the lake and after Robert dried off we lunched in a lovely country pub, Tom Weir’s Nest and then visited the manor on the other side of the Loch where Julie and Robert were married. A beautiful spot for a memorable occasion.

Not sure if Julie really wanted to share!

From Wedding Day to Grandpa…so happy to meet little Ollie!

Edinburgh

Many years since I was in Edinburgh to see the Fringe Festival and the Tatoo. But this time I had more time to wander the city and see the sights I hadn’t seen on that first trip.

Everything I wanted to see was quite walkable from my flat on Castle Terrace and I ventured out to see the City of Edinburgh Museum, the Scottish Art Gallery and various monuments around the city. I walked the famous Royal Mile and visited a Gallery dedicated to weaving and fabric arts. A busy place, steeped in history and easy to navigate I would love to go back and spend more time out and around the city.

The Scott Monument Dedicated to Sir Walter Scott

A Frozen Ross Fountain in Prince’s Garden

Busy Streets in Front of the Waldorf Astoria

Westgate to Birmingham (Well Sort Of) on to Plymouth and Polperro Cornwall and Back to Westgate – Kind of a golden triangle only rainy.

The city of Walsall where my lovely hosts live in a Victorian era house that they decorate beautifully for the holidays.

To say that I took the train from Margate to Birmingham to visit friends would only be partially accurate because they actually live in Walsall a town just outside of Birmingham.

However, my lovely hosts Charn and Shem met me under the impressively large bull in the Birmingham New Street station and we proceded out into the bustling core of the city.

What knowledge I had of Birmingham was limited to picturing it as a dilapidated steel mill town that had seen better days and more recently to the images from Peaky Blinders. I was surprised when we spilled out onto the crowded streets surrounding the train station, to see a vibrant, bustling downtown core festooned with Christmas decorations.

Our first stop was to visit a pub that had been the “local” for a friend I knew back home who sadly had passed away in March. It was comforting to imagine Dave there in his younger days with his friend and my host Shem. The place was packed with punters, clearly not taking a break from pints between Christmas and New Year’s. The Old Joint Stock pub itself has a beautifully ornate interior, including a glass domed ceiling, and was once a bank building.

The Old Joint Stock Pub – Dave’s Local from days gone bye

After a few, we left the pub for an Italian restaurant for great food, conversation and company. Dinner done, we ventured out of Birmingham to the city of Walsall where my lovely hosts live in a Victorian era house that they decorate beautifully for the holidays. Every room was decorated and the ornaments on the tree were collected over many years and from many holiday destinations.

Great hosts Shem and Charn planned a day out to visit the local Art Gallery that was featuring an exhibit by South Asian woman focused on cultural identities, inclusivity and belonging. This multi media exhibit included video, displays and a variety of multimedia art pieces, all very colourful and brilliant statements. For a small gallery it was well curated and the main collection donated by two local women included a wide range pieces. Curation of note for sure.

After a walk through the town and the Walsall Arboretum, we arrived home and Charn prepared Indian dishes, including curries, samosas and pakoras. Early the next morning Charn and Shem drove me back to Birminham New Street station and I boarded the train for Plymouth, where my nephew and his family met me and we travelled on by car to Polperro where we were to spend New Years.

Polperro Cornwall – Year 2 of Fancy Dress for New Years

Our return to Polperro for New Years was made possible by the lovely Renata who booked our accommodation. A slightly larger party we rented a three bedroom stone house perched on the edge of the Polperro harbour. The stormy sea was right under my bedroom window and we had several days of storm watching. The weather curtailed outdoor activities but the cottage was cozy and warm and every window had a different view of the sea rolling by roiled up by a storm named Henk. Binge watching Poldark added to the scenario as here we were in that very setting,

The weather took a break for New Years Eve which was good because following a pub crawl in fancy dress (costumes) the town ends in the village square for the countdown and the singing of Auld Lang Syne. Fireworks over the harbour were a suitable ending to a fun night with a chance to say a hearty goodbye to 2023 and welcome 2024.

What Do An 80’s Rock Star, A Baby Shark and a Canadian Lumberjack Have in Common?

The Long and Winding Road Home to Margate

Budapest for the Christmas Markets

As I was going to be in England and a friend mentioned Budapest for the Christmas Markets, I could hardly say no. I had never been to Hungary and it had long been on my list of places to visit. Just over a two hour flight from Heathrow we arrived late in the day and went by taxi to our air BnB in District V, the central area of Budapest.

As an introduction to the city we used the Hop on Hop off Bus which offered a perfect opportunity to have an overall view of the city, giving us ideas of what we wanted to make a point of getting back to for a longer look.

Written up as the most Beautiful Restaurant in the World but too long a line up!

Our BnB location was within walk distance of the St Stephen’s Basilica Christmas Market which in the end was our favourite of the markets. Seemed a little less crowded than some others, the food was wonderful and there was a light show set to the Nutcracker Suite beamed onto the front of the Basilica. Named after Stephen, the first King of Hungary, it is the largest church in Hungary and home to one of King Stephen’s mummified hands.

Love the sellers at the a Christmas Markets

The stalls were full of Hungarian Christmas goodies and crafts and sitting outdoors at picnic style benches and tables was not the least unpleasant in spite of the chill in the air.

Everything from candy to honey, home decor and the famous melt in your mouth chimney cakes made fresh at every market

The Danube River divides the Pest and Buda sides of Budapest and several bridges span the river, dotted with cruise boats and especially pretty at night. On the Pest side which is where we stayed are some of the sights we visited including the impressive Parliament Buildings, the Grand Market Hall, the Jewish Quarter surrounding the Dohány Street Synagogue and the museum dedicated to the memory of Holocaust victims.

One of many squares lit up for Christmas

The Jewish museum is well worth the visit, although it is gut wrenching to hear some of the stories and view the photos from Budapest during WW11, it is a necessary reminder, especially timely today. Visitors from all over and from all religions appear to be drawn to the Synagoue and Museum and certainly the interior of the synagogue is very impressive. The streets around the synagogue are great to wander after a visit and give you an idea of the density of Jewish population in that area at one time.

The National Museum of Hungary is housed in a stately palace. It is a vivid account to the lengthy and turbulent history of Hungary from the earliest of times to the present day and while there we took in a special exhibit called Brides of Hungary, a tribute to women in different time periods and the dresses that reflected the style of various decades. With feminist leanings it went beyond fashion and provided glimpse into the lives of women over time.

Bride’s Exhibit

The Grand Market is just that, huge, multi-layered and full of Hungarian art, craft, food, clothing, accessories and of course at this time of year Christmas gifts. Well worth a wander and not to be missed, the neighbourhood around the market is great for a wander as well.

On the Buda side of the Danube we visited Buda castle by taking the beautiful wooden funicular up the side of the hill to the castle itself. At the top we had a great view of the city on both sides of the river and were able to wander back to our hotel across the Chain Bridge, so names for the chains it hangs from.

Also on the Buda side of the river we visited the Gellert Thermal bath, one of many that make Budapest a draw for their healing properties. Built in the Art Nouveau style between 1912 and 1918, it has several hot baths each labeled with their particular temperature, a massive numbers of lockers, and spa services including massage. A bit of a maze and challenging to navigate it was a very relaxing way to spend a few hours.

The food in Budapest deserves special recognition and we were able to sample several notably Hungarian dishes and drinks including. As you can imagine Goulash or Gulyas was on most restaurant menus and served at the Christmas markets as well. A popular dish it is a hearty and warm stew filled with beef, paprika, onions and potatoes and sometimes served with spetzel like noodles. Delicious and warming especially outside at night.

Chicken paprikas (Csirke Paprikas) is astonishingly red because of the amount of sweet paprika mixed with tomatoes, garlic and sweet peppers in. Sour cream is added and delicious chewy dumplings make the dish very filling. A must try in Budapest in.

Of course the signature dish of Hungary is Goulash and nothing beats a warm bowl at an outdoor market.

We also indulged in Chimney Cakes which we saw cooked over barbecue coals at one market and in a special rotisserie like oven at another market. A doughnut like batter is wrapped around a wooden form and rotated over heat until done, sprinkled with sugar while it cooks gives a cartelized effect and when removed from the wooden form this confection stand erect like a chimney. Quite delicious and definitely shareable.

Meat Pancakes (Hortobagyi Palacsinta) are thin pancakes filled with savoury chicken or beef minced into small pieces. Once filled the pancakes are rolled into burrito like shapes and baked and then covered with a paprika sauce and of course a dollop of sour cream. Mmmmm

Stuffed Cabbage Leaves (Toltott Kaposzta) the Hungarian cabbage roll is made from cooked, pickled cabbage and filled with minced pork, paprika (of course) and rice. When I ordered this dish at a Christmas market it came with sausage and grilled vegetables and went down well with mulled wine.

A very popular dish with the Hungarians was a deep-fried flat bread (Langos), crispy on the outside while soft on the inside, it is sprinkled with cheese and topped off with sour cream. Looked delicious but one can only eat so much so I didn’t have the room to try it.

I hope to visit Hungary again when I have more time and I’m able to see other parts of the country. It has a quietness about it that you don’t find in other European Capitals. People seem less hurried and definitely friendlier, especially the people who work with tourists like myself. Until I return Budapest, keep your magic alive.

Puerto Escondido 2023

Puerto Escondido a beautiful place!

I have been coming here for nearly a decade almost on an annual basis and I have used it as my jumping off point for other destinations both within and without Mexican borders. The natural beauty in Puerto is unparalleled with tropical plants, aromatic scents wafting in the night air and an ocean breeze that lifts the oppression of the heat. Spirit quenching sunsets and cliff top ocean views or beachside restaurants magically conclude every day. These are the things that drew me to Puerto and kept me coming back.

But….and there is a but. Puerto has been “discovered” and the number of people crowding into this area is phenomenal. Unprecedented building and development on top of already overburdened infrastructure and public facilities means crowded beaches, plane loads of tourists from as far away as the Netherlands, (KLM now books to Puerto through Mexico City), giving rise to the usual controversy for the locals. Is development good, bad or indifferent? Opinions vary but one thing is clear some will benefit and others will not.

Puerto has been amazing over the years and some of my highlights have included excursions and day trips up and down the Coast highway that takes you to a variety of beaches, towns, lagoons, wild-life sanctuaries and mangroves, all with a backdrop of the Sierra de Sur mountains. Over the years I have visited the spectacular mangroves and lagoons of Chacahua National Park to the north of Puerto. To the south I have made trips to Mazunte, a hip kind of beach town, Zipolite a town known for it’s nude/gay friendliness, and further south to Hualtulco, a resort town popular with tourists due to daily direct flights from places like Vancouver. Also in that area I have stayed in and visited the town of Tonemeca where I have friends.

Not day trips, I have ventured up into the Sierra del Sur Mountains to visit the capital of the state of Oaxaca, Oaxaca City and also to the alpine town of San Jose del Pacifico home of alpine adventures, such as drop zones, zip lines and cliff top swings!

In Puerto itself there are several beaches, starting at the southern most part of town, there is the surfer beach La Punta with restaurants, bars and night life. Hard to swim if you’re not a strong swimmer but easier and safer than Zicatela beach which is north toward the center of town and a great place to sit in the sand or in a restaurant to enjoy the sunset, but not a swimming beach with wild waves and rip tides. The next beach is the main beach and toward the southern end it is swimmable and well used by locals for both swimming and anchoring fish boats. Around the point there is Manzanillo and Puerto Angelito beaches, favourites with locals as they are safe, swimmable and can be accessed easily, whereas the next beach, Carazillo has a ferocious set of stairs which going down at the beginning of the day are far less daunting than climbing them at the end of the day. And rounding the corner the final beach in Puerto, Bacocha, is truly beautiful but again the rough surf makes swimming difficult but an interesting site on the beach is the sea turtle sanctuary with a release program once the eggs hatch and the turtles are ready to take to the seas.

On this particular winter respite in Mexico I have paid more for my apartment, with granted, a lovely garden and pool which blessedly is rarely used by anyone but myself, than I have ever paid anywhere in Mexico. Is Mexico becoming too expensive for me? Will I need to look elsewhere for new places to discover and wander? Is it that a place too frequently visited does not remain frozen in time and is subject to the same changes that are rolling across the landscapes of this post-modern world. Not sure when I will return, as I have other plans for next year, I dedicate this post in the memory of my friend Rangel Cruz Valencia, and I leave you with my favourite photos from 2023 Puerto!

A Very English Christmas

A feast for the eyes and spirit…

When your nephew invites to his home in Westgate on Sea in Kent England for Christmas you would be a fool to say no. Although I had a fun week in Europe at the Christmas Markets my Very English Christmas was the purpose of my travels.

I arrived in at my nephews stone house on the shores of the North Sea in time to watch Christmas preparations unfold. My wonderful nephew and his family took great pains to make this a special Christmas, beginning with touring the local area visiting castles, villages, museums and cathedrals.

A Warn Welcome in a lovely home

Wild skies and lonely winter beaches along the Kent coast

Kent is know as the Garden of England and is famous for the White Cliffs of Dover, Canterbury Cathedral, Churchills home Chartwell & numerous castles, forts and manor houses.

Close to Westgate is Walmer Castle built during the reign of Henry the VIII as a coastal defense, the ownership of the castle has passed down through the centuries and is now a property managed by the English Heritage. It has eight acres of gardens which due to the stormy weather we only enjoyed from above in the dryness of the castle. One famous resident of the castle was the Duke of Wellington and his bed and boots are still there along with his story. Also close to Walmer Castle are Roman ruins where the forces of Rome launched their invasion of Celtic Britan.

We also drove along the coast to see Dover Castle which from the exterior is quite stunning in size, location and design but it was an extremely windy day and the castle itself was closed to safeguard would be tourists. We were however able to visit the underground tunnels original to the castle but used extensively during the Second World War. We weren’t allowed to take photos inside the tunnels but inside their own relics of WWII communications technology. Weather made photos impossible from outside so here is a photo from wikipedia of the Castle .

Dover Castle

Along the coast we visited a variety of places and walked through the towns and along the beaches and even in the winter there is a charm and beauty to Kent that comes from the magnificent skies, seaside towns and living history.

Coastal Towns of Kent, Ramsgate, Margate, Broadmear

One evening a group of us headed for Canterbury where we visited the Christmas Market and did some shopping in the historic centre before heading into the Cathedral for a Christmas service, the main attraction being the choral music, richly satisfying in this age old Cathedral with naturally fantastic acoustics.

My nephew, Christian and I spent three great days in London, renting an air bnb in Kensington we managed to buy same day tickets at discounted prices for the musical Tina and the play The Best of Enemies. Both were interesting to see but I think Covid has impacted the world of theatre greatly and these were two of the few things that I haven’t seen in various trips to London. Hopefully things will revive and there will be new playbills on the horizon.

My London traditions include “light seeing” along Regent and Oxford Streets, purchasing Christmas tea at Harrods, visiting Covent Gardens and spending some time in wine bars and pubs. I like to visit Trafalgar Square because both the National Gallery and Canada House are there and of course St. Martin’s in the Field, where if you’re lucky you can catch a Christmas Concert and have a bite to eat in the Catacombs below the church.

Christian and I said goodbye for a time while I headed off to meet friends in Oxford where we spent a weekend catching up, visiting (guess what) Christmas markets, pubs and seeing the various College buildings scattered around the University of Oxford.

After a fun time in Oxford I went back to Brighton with my friends and stayed for several nights. Long enough to walk the sea wall and watch the “sky show”above the English Channel. On the solstice Brighton celebrates the shortest day of the year with a pagan celebration known as Burning the Clocks. A parade of people with a variety of interesting lanterns made from rice paper and bamboo wend their way through the old narrow streets, ending at the beach where there is a giant bonfire to burn the lanterns and to add more light to the picture a boat is burned to acknowledge the coming of light as the days get longer.

Since the trains were on rotating strikes it was difficult to get from one place to another but a window op opportunity presented and I was able to take a train from Brighton back to Westgate on Sea just in time for Christmas. Eleven people were at the table and my hosts made the most wonderful dinner with of course Christmas pudding at the end.

To top it all off, for New Years, we drove clear across England from Kent to Polperro in Cornwall. This is a quaint stone house type fishing village with again a lengthy and rich history. Folks come to Polperro to celebrate New Years by wearing “fancy dress” or what we Canadians would call costumes. It was so much fun and in the post-covid world people were hungry to gather and celebrate with music, dance, food and drink and fireworks at midnight in the main square. I loved how people mingled with complete strangers, admiring each other’s costumes and sharing the joy of celebrating what hopefully will be a much better year in these interesting times.

I loved my English Christmas, I loved getting together with family, the variety of things I was able to see and do, the fun, witty, friendly people I always meet in the UK. Needless to say I will be back. Thanks to everyone who made my visit so stellar!

Advent in Germany & Austria

The Warmth of Christmas Markets

In the days running up to Christmas the world takes on a glow, people scurry about making their holiday preparations but perhaps one of the best traditions I’ve encountered are the German and Austrian Christmas markets. Outside in the cold sipping mulled wine (Gluwein) is surprisingly pleasant and warming. Town squares are festooned with rows of booths and throngs of locals gearing up for the Season. The booths invitingly lit and stuffed with various foods, sweets, games, toys, decorations etc.. You can never go hungry or thirsty at one of these markets as you squeeze between the crowds, navigating your way to the next booth for a Gluwein or a delicious German sausage!

I have travelled in Germany in the past but often to large cities and there one brushes up against the European International experience. On this trip to Germany I visited a friend and her family who live just outside of Munich. Utting is one of many small hamlets in this area known as the “Five Lakes” region. Utting is on the lake and if you look east and north to the end of the lake you can see the Alps. My friends family was warm and hospitable and shared food and traditions, including the lightening of the four candles on each Sunday leading up to Christmas Day. Great food and lots of laughs were shared.

A beautiful lake in Utting and in the summer there is a ferry to the other side and if you look down the lake you can see the Alps.

Nearby there are larger centers and during the days my friend and I drove to cities of Landsberg and Augsburg to see the sights and visit the Christmas Markets.

Landsberg

Landsberg is a smallish town on the beautiful Lech river and the settlement can be traced back more than 2000 years. There is a beautiful very old and ornate city hall with an information centre which has brochures in English if, like me, that’s what you are limited to.

The town square Christmas Market in Landsberg

A very tall tree.

Street Scenes as the afternoon wanes

Foot bridges and over the river and it’s branches that run right through the town.

City gates protected Landsberg in days gone by.

The River runs between the buildings and cascades at the widest point.

Landsberg Cathedral

Signs of what outdoor summer time is like in Landsberg

When the sunsets the Christmas Market comes alive

Delicious eats and warming drinks while you shop the stalls.

Augsburg

Next stop was the town of Augsburg, a city bigger than Landsberg and it too was in full Christmas Market swing. Founded under Roman rule Augsburg has roots that go back 2000 years making it one of Germany’s oldest cities. With a city centre boasting a grand shopping street, Maximillianstraus, and beautiful Baroque and Renaissance buildings fronting the main square where you will find the Christmas Market.

The rooftops of Augsburg

These giant homes, now apartments, offer a pastel palette to passers by.

The amazingly gilded government palace on the main square.

The market from above and down in the thick of things

Wide variety of foods and crafts make for interesting shopping experiences

My lovely guide and friend Andrea

Munich

Munich, Bavaria’s capital, is home to centuries-old buildings and numerous museums. The city is known for its annual Oktoberfest celebration and its beer halls, including the famed Hofbräuhaus, founded in 1589. In the Altstadt (Old Town), central Marienplatz square contains landmarks such as Neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (town hall), with a popular glockenspiel show that chimes and reenacts stories from the 16th Century.

In addition to which, Munich boasts the an impressive number of Christmas markets scattered around the city centre. The same array of food, drink and shopping as other markets but on a bigger scale. Impressive in all seasons I especially loved Munich at Christmas.

Munich Main Square

Sampling of Christmas Markets around the Main Square

Vienna

Next stop on my Advent tour was Vienna. A four hour train trip from Munich Vienna is no slouch either in the Christmas Market tradition. Having made a friend on a boat trip down the Mekong River I decided to visit, see Vienna and rekindle the friendship. So glad I did as Vienna was resplendent in all it’s Christmas glory.

Busy shopping street in Vienna

The not so blue Danube and one of the River Boats

In between visits with my friends I took the Hop on Hop Off Bus Tour of Vienna which has grown outwardly since I visited in the 80’s. There is so much to see and do in Vienna and it is truly a city for all seasons, but a winter visit does mean fewer tourists and more breathing room than what I remember.

Dinners out and visits to Christmas Markets kept me and my friends fed and entertained as Gluwein in hand, we sipped our way through the stalls.

Environmentally friendly, you pay a deposit for the non-disposable mugs and if you return them you get your euros back but if you wish to keep the mug as a souvenir that is fine.

My last day in Vienna, it snowed and that was an added bonus. Great white fluffy flakes falling on the city completed the Christmas spirit and I left glad that I had gone and hopeful to return to both Austria and Germany.

A Wee Train Trip

Glasgow

Edinburgh

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Polperro Cornwall – Year 2 of Fancy Dress for New Years

The Long and Winding Road Home to Margate

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Landsberg

Augsburg

Munich

Vienna

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