Travel writing – Wander With Stella

Phuket Island

Phuket, the bigger Thai Island with a little bit of everything for everyone. Surprising for its beauty, food, beaches and friendly Thai people.

Phuket Island will be the final stop on my journey through Thailand, before I head to Malaysia. The ferry from Koh Lanta to Phuket Island was just long enough, and on the way there was blue sky, fishing trawlers and the well known island of Koh PiPi which I will have to leave for another time.

Old Town Phuket

Of course there is the Island of Phuket, the City of Phuket and “Old Town” Phuket, and it is here that I spent my first four nights on Phuket Island. Lovely walking area, my hotel was not one of the heritage hotels, like the one below, but it was a block from the Old Town as it is known, it was very nice and it had a decent size pool.

Old Town Decked Out for Chinese New Year

Old Town Phuket – Nominated To Be A World Heritage Site

Restaurants Galore Welcoming the Four Corners of the World

Once again I used the Map My City Ap for its walking tour of the old town and it took me the better part of a day to follow their routes. The tour took me past several sites that represent the history and the culture of Phuket that dates back to the 1st C AD. An important port in the trade route between China and Malaysia, it’s early history meant an influx of Chinese. The Golden Dragon is a symbol that is given offerings and prayers in exchange for protection of Phuket and its people.

In spite of it being Old Phuket there are many reminders of a modern art scene as you stroll the streets and turn corners to find the unexpected.

Thanon Dibuk Road is a bustling street of cafes and shops catering to tourist and local alike. A good area to sample Thai food in one of the many cafes.

Perhaps the most outstanding feature of Thanon Dibuk Road is an off shoot called Soi Rommanee Lane a narrow passage of Sino-Portuguese shophouses which were at one time brothels and gambling houses. Ironically this former street of sin, leads to the Wat Mongolian Nimit built in 1880. Mongolian Nimit Wat is a an especially sacred place for gathering and making offerings to the Buddha. Inside the Pagoda style Wat are intricate colourful art works and a giant stupa surrounded by other small stupas and of course a statue of Buddha.

Sino-Portuguese architecture is not unique to Phuket, Southern India and Sri Lanka also have architecture that reflect the melding of European and Asian cultures. These colourful, practical buildings certainly remain as evidence of the Portuguese, Malay and Chinese who came to trade in the 19th Century and earlier. Eventually trade involved the mining and exporting of tin which really meant an economic boom for Phuket. Great care has been taken to restore these buildings to make them as authentic as possible. Most are now shops, bars and restaurants and full of tourists.

Old Alley Ways Between and Under Buildings

Chinese history is very prominent in Old Town Phuket as waves of settlement led to the construction Chinese Schools and Family Shrines that honoured their ancestors.

Shrine of Serene Light to Chinese Ancestors

Surin, Kamala, Pukhet & Karon Beaches

Of course the Island of Phuket is known as a beach holiday destination and offers the choice of several well-known beaches, many of which were sadly destroyed in the 2004 Tsunami in which many people lost their lives.

Surin Beach

I had the chance to explore several of the beaches along the west coast of Phuket Island. I definitely started at one of the top tier beaches, Surin, where the hotels are quite pricy so a short stay was in order.

Kamala Beach

If I had to pick a beach to stay at for an extended period of time it would be Kamala Beach, a little less expensive than Surin and a little less crowded and cluttered than Paton Beach.

Patong Beach

I actually spent more time in a Patong Beach hotel, which wouldn’t have been my first choice but definitely more affordable. I really can’t complain though I was at the far northern end of the beach and my hotel had a balcony with a lovely view of the ocean and the sunsets. It had a cute little pool and the bus that runs between the various beaches stopped right outside my door.

The beach chair renters called me Mama and if I missed a day they wanted to know why. They were really sweet and started to give me discounts.

Sand Under Brilliant White Lights Gives a Nice Green Glow

Patong Hotel Pool – Across a Busy Road to the Beach

Restaurant on the Rocks – Far End of Patong Beach

Karon Beach

I had the good fortune of meeting a Thai woman named Nok and as soon as we started to chat we realized we were practically twins. We enjoy the same hobbies, shared many opinions and even like to travel alone. She worked for a large corporation at one time and was sent all over on business so we even shared a love of travel. She very kindly took a day off work to show me around and one of the places we went was to Karon Beach. We had a picnic there and she had brought along friend chicken and sticky rice. She sat and crocheted under a palm tree while I swam in the surf which was a little wild for me. Knocked me off my feet a couple of times, making it very hard to get out of the water.

One thing I missed on all of the beaches was a variety of folks from different parts of the of the world. All of these beaches are packed with Russians who tend to be an unfriendly bunch that speak little English. It’s said that there are over 100,000 Russians in Thailand at any given time and many wealthy families send their children here to sit out the war against Ukraine. They are given 6 month visas whereas most tourists get 3 months and even have to extend that one after 60 days. Of course the Russians pay more for their visas.

Since there were so many Russians about, I became quite curious about the Russian people and I even googled, “why are Russians so unfriendly”. The answer was interesting in that it’s said to be a cultural phenomena not to waste time and energy on what could be viewed as falsely friendly exchanges. A waste of time, but I also read that they are warm and friendly with those that they know. I was told an old Russian saying “enjoy today, it will only get worse.” Which may explain their somewhat dark moods. Like all people, there are a mix of good and bad but the collective exterior Russian persona is decidedly cold.

In my observation the second largest group are the French and then a smattering of other European groups who tend to be more friendly and speak English for the most part quite well. Don’t get me wrong I don’t expect people to speak English everywhere I go but a little friendly conversation goes a long way when you’re a solo traveller. One sure thing is that Russia and Europe are the bulk of the beach holidayers on Phuket. I met the odd Canadian but surprisingly there are very few travellers from the U.S.A.

Patong and Surrounding Areas

Banga Street & Shopping Zone

Patong, the sin city of Thailand, or one of them anyway, was not nearly as repugnant as I thought it might be. Maybe because I only wandered about in the party zone earlier in the evenings.

Bars & Clubs Along the Famous Banga Street

Most People Seemed Like Tourists not “Customers”

One thing I saw was the photo above. It was little creepy to be honest and to music the “real live” girl in the middle danced about and the two “not so real and not so alive” girls on each end followed her steps. Clever but creepy.

Big Buddha

Once again my friend Nok came and collected me to take me to see the Big Buddha as it is known. Going with a local I learned all kinds of things about the Buddha that I might otherwise have missed.

For one thing, Big Buddha was a commercial venture created for tourism and not a holy site with deep history. It was opened some years ago but due to poor engineering it was not quite completed when the government stepped in and shut it down. I was lucky that on March 3rd I was there for the reopening that followed a two year hiatus. Apparently the engineers failed to determine the impact of the weight of Buddha and during a heavy rainstorm the settling of the monument caused a land slide killing several people living on the slopes below. Supposedly the faults are rectified and the site was deemed safe to reopen. The views from the Big Buddha are amazing.

The monument to Buddha is concrete covered with marble tile. As of yet there is nothing inside the open space beneath the Buddha but that may come.

I was surprised by how much I enjoyed Phuket Island but meeting my Thai friend Nok had a lot to do with that. Between picnics on beaches, shopping trips, massages, tours of Phuket and gifts of crocheted items I appreciated the time she took to spend with me and to answer my many questions. I have extended an invitation for her to visit me in Canada and one day I hope we meet again.

And now off to Langkawi Island via Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia.

Krabi Thailand & Koh Lanta

Krabi….very special province in the South of Thailand….the nearest thing to a 10 for geographical beauty. A gateway to the Island paradise of Koh Lanta.

I’m going to digress here a little bit and tell you about an encounter at the Bangkok airport as I was waiting for my flight to Krabi. I was chatting with a fellow and when I told him I was from Canada, he recounted that he had met our Prime Minister, Mark Carney in his chocolate shop in West Hampstead where Carney lived while he was the Head of the Bank of England. He said that he was a down to earth very pleasant man, curious about peoples jobs, very likeable and would buy white chocolate for his wife, it being her favourite. He said other lovely things about Mark Carney and how lucky we were to have him! It made me feel very proud to be a Canadian.

Krabi Province

Goldilocks Luck

Krabi is a province in Southern Thailand but it is also the name of the provincial capital. Ao Nang Beach is a smaller village about 14 kms from Krabi and Ao Nam Mao Beach is an even smaller village between Krabi and Ao Nang. None of this I fully appreciated when I booked myself into Diamond Beach Resort in Ao Nam Mao. So with a little Goldilocks luck, I stumbled upon something “just right”.

Krabi Province – Krabi Town, Ao Nam Mao, Railay & Ao Nang

Krabi, like Papa Bear, is too big and disheveled for my liking and Ao Nang like Mama Bear has her good points and the beach is lovely and comfortable….but the Ao Nam Mao Beach is like Baby Bear and it is “just right”. In a snug little cove in a small village, my hotel faces out to the Andaman Sea and in the far distance is the island of Koh PiPi.

My Cabin Exterior – Veranda Made for Sitting Out

The Village itself boasts the usual 7-11, food markets, massage parlours and restaurants along the main strip but walking past the main strip and down along the beach are several beachfront hotels with night life, restaurants and nice beachfronts. Much less busy than either Krabi City or Ao Nang.

Closest Swimming Beach to Diamond Resort – 10 minute walk

I did make day trips to each of Krabi City and Ao Nang Beach and was rewarded for my efforts but I did so enjoy my quiet days on Ao Nam Mao beside a lovely pool and staying in a wonderful little Thai style cabin. The staff were friendly and seemed genuinely happy to see you and the room included breakfast which although repetitive was convenient and went until 10:00 am. The Diamond Beach Resort I would recommend even though the beach itself was tidal and mud bottomed, there was a sandy beach just up from the resort.

Saying Farewell to the Breakfast Ladies at Diamond Resort

Ao Nang

My day in Ao Nang was nice, lots of shops, restaurants, souvenirs and tour operators. Everyone seemed relaxed and happy to be crowded together there and the white sandy beach was lovely. It was hard to find a shaded spot but I managed to squeeze in between two groups under a palm and enjoy a few swims. A late dinner at an Indian Restaurant and I made my way back Ao Nam as I came, in a Grab, Asias equivalent to Uber only much cheaper. The drivers here are welcoming but most speak very little English.

Krabi City

I went to Krabi City in the evening for two reasons, one was to visit the night market and the other was to dine at a floating restaurant on the Krabi River. I enjoyed both the market and my dinner but the city itself was not too enthralling.

Railay Beach

Another day trip was to Railay Beach, which I was surprised to see was covered in resorts, shops, restaurants, tour guides, activities etc.. For some reason I thought it was just a day beach destination. It was a lovely trip on a long tail boat which I took from the pier close to my hotel.

Rock Formations Jut Right Out of the Ocean

I spent the day wandering the shops, sunning and swimming and came across my first fellow travellers whose language was English. So many Europeans here, I wish I spoke French or German but I did meet two women from Argentina and so we were able to chat for a while in Spanish. One of the women was a police officer in Buenos Aires.

Koh Lanta

Koh Lanta is a beautiful Island south of Krabi City, accessible by boat or by bridge. I opted for a passenger ferry that left from Ao Nang and landed in Koh Lanta an hour and a half or so later. It was a lovely sunny crossing and although getting on and off the passenger ferries is akin to herding cats, and you’re one of the cats. Bodies and bags are flung about until all and sundry are safely on a pier where the hustle and bustle of Tuk-tuk touts and drivers reel you in for a fast trip out of there to your hotel.

Leaving Krabi

In my case the Lanta Resort which shared a similar name and designation to an Aparthotel some miles past the real Lanta Resort. Oddly it even came up on hotels.com map incorrectly. I was dropped in the wrong place but some lovely ladies in an office helped out, got things sorted and I was on my way back to the proper place.

The main road that runs parallel to the western beaches is one long line of commerce: restaurants, grocery shops, ATM’s, tour companies, bars, massage parlours, moto rentals, tin roofs, and mangy dogs wandering in and out of the ramshackle buildings and the traffic. This initial approach to paradise can be off putting but once you are off the main road and down the avenues to your hotel your view of the place mellows dramatically.

I stayed on what is called Long Beach, which it is. A long strip of white sand beach and aquamarine water lapping the shore in gentle waves. Rarely an inch of land along the beach lies fallow. Most resorts back on to the beach with restaurants, beach loungers, massage huts, cafes and even mini-marts lest you forgot your sun cream.

Multiple tours and activities are available on Koh Lanta including snorkeling trips to smaller island nearby. I opted for a boat tour of the Mangroves which included lunch at a look-out and time to wander the old village of Koh Lanta.

All in all a great stay on Koh Lanta, maybe just not long enough! And now it’s on to Phuket Island to discover the what treasures await me there.

Bangkok 2026

Solo travel in Bangkok with so much to do!

I first came to Bangkok in the ‘80’s and let me start by saying….it is not the same place. Sure, maybe tucked, squeezed, forgotten, pushed under bridges, down back lanes and clinging to river channels, the old Bangkok survives under the long shadows of glassy eyed skyscrapers that in no way bear resemblance to my memories of the first visit.

Changed as it is, I loved it all…..the remnants of days gone by and even the enthusiastic embracing of commercialism. One thing that is not gone for sure is the wonderful warmth, friendliness and hospitality of the Thai people. And, of course Thai cuisine, from 5 star Michelin restaurants to steamy food carts serving street food, Bangkok has it all.

New Bangkok Skyline Dwarfs the Old Style Street Scenes

A Place of Quiet & Gratitude Among the Hustle & Bustle

I was just lucky when I booked a room at the Oakwood Hotel and Residences in the Sathorn district. Situated a short walk from “everything”, I was able to take trains, ride the river boats, walk to shops, eat and drink and sleep comfortably in a decent hotel.

Close to my hotel was a street food market, a moderate shopping mall and a 7-11. On the streets around the hotel you could buy baisered corn on the cob, fresh fruit and other snack type food most of which were a mystery to me.

Since my stay was short and I had very clear memories of the Royal Palace, the Royal yachts, and several of the Wats I chose to spend my time visiting places that would be new to me.

Culture and Malls Go Together?

The sky trains in Bangkok are easy to navigate and ticket booths and machines are both easy to understand.

Buying a 20 Baht ticket, I headed off to see the Bangkok Art & Cultural Centre which turned out to be connected by a pedestrian causeway to a jumbo mall.

Bangkok Art & Culture Centre

Entrance is free at the Art & Cultural Centre and ironically included exhibitions by youth and “kids” themed on pitfalls of commercialism.

Real Live Interaction…Not On-Line as Depicted by A Young Artist Who Enjoys Sharing Food with Friends

Homes Squeezed In Regardless of the Urban Landscape

The interior of the building is reminiscent of the Guggenheim in NYC and exhibits are coiled around a centre atrium with arts shops tucked in back corners.

The final exhibit on the top coil was an homage to the suffering of the people of Myanmar under the current regime.

Chart Shows Number and Cause of Deaths in the Current Conflict

Mega Mall – MBK

Ironically, you step out the door of the Cultural Centre and you come face to face with the sprawl of urban commercialization being questioned in the youth exhibit.

The MBK Mall as it is called, is crowded, busy, noisy….housing small business, brand names, entertainment, services, restaurants all cheek to jowl over at least 6 floors. Each floor a rabbit warren of stalls. I think these are the same street merchants that I saw in the 80’s but they’ve been moved inside with AC?

I headed to the 6th floor to the electronics bazaar to buy a charger cord to replace one left on the plane. Booth after booth, hundreds of sellers, “brand names” (maybe) , definite knock-offs, and after-market items spread across what must be an acre or more of retail space.

Cord in hand I rode the escalators back down to the ground floor and outside to the National Stadium sky train station. Mission accomplished.

Another Kind of Mall Featuring Thai Culture

I was lucky enough that I was able to meet up with some friends of friends and we went to the most spectacular restaurant for dinner. The restaurant was on the top floor of the Iconsiam Mall, which is on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. The front of the mall is terraced with outdoor patios and restaurants with gorgeous city and river views.

The Chao Phraya Busy with Dinner Cruise Boats

Front and Top Floor Restaurants Where We Dined

Grandiosely titled “Iconsiam” the mall is definitely meeting its aspiration of Icon status. Unlike the MBK mall it is a temple of brand names. No knock offs here folks. Every level is gathered around marble floored atriums and riding the steep escalator to great heights means you look down over the miniature people below (not for someone with a fear of heights).

Indoor Floating Market Featuring Regions of Thailand

The bottom floor of the Iconsiam mall is designed to resemble a floating market and is divided into the cardinal regions of Thailand with shops and restaurants given over to the traditions, food and wares of each region. It’s a great place to eat inexpensively, all while giving a sense of the Regions of Thailand.

Chao Phraya River – Best Way to Get Around

Traffic is so thick and ponderous in Bangkok it’s inevitable that you find yourself commuting on the Chao Phraya River. A long snake of a thing that passes through the city on its way to Gulf of Thailand, it beats snarled traffic hands down.

On the River, there is a tourist “hop on hop off” boat and for 150 THB it allows you to stop at many of the main tourist sights. A lovely way to feel somewhat of a breeze off the water in a hot and humid city. As I said, I gave the usual sights a miss but headed for China Town, the Iconsiam pier where I had some unfinished shopping business and the Asiatique.

The Asiatique

The Asiatique is a cluster of shops and buildings representative of Thai architecture from 1907-1947. The buildings have been renovated while staying true to their original design. The stop gives you a good idea of what life style and foreign trade were like along the river during colonial times. Thailand proudly resisted colonization, but was surrounded by nations that succumbed. There’s also a 60 m high Ferris wheel and although I didn’t have time to ride it, it supposedly has great views.

China Town

A labyrinth of narrow lanes and a jumble of shops and restaurants, Bangkok’s China Town was a fun wander and surprisingly I stumbled upon one of the best iced coffees just when I needed a chair with AC. Apparently bean roasting has become a thing.

I also had Thai food in a Chinese Restaurant that had so much AC I asked to have a fan turned off. Good food though. Bangkok’s China Town is said to be one for the oldest and biggest in the world where generations of Chinese merchants and their families continue to make it their home.

Cityscapes from the Chao Phraya

The Tourist Boat is a must do in Bangkok as far as I’m concerned, you can visit famous Buddhist temples like Wat Yannawa built 242 years ago, you can see the giant golden Buddha reclining in the Wat Pho and everyone must see the gemstone adorned Grand Palace and the Wat Phra Kaew which houses the Emerald Buddha the symbol of Thailand.

Throughout the day I travelled the length of the tourist boat route and was lucky enough to be on board and have a seat (rather crowded) in time for the sunset.

And so ends my time in Bangkok, so glad I came, although four days was enough to accomplish getting over jet lag and seeing what changes 40 some odd years had brought to the city. And now I will fly to the province of Krabi in the south of Thailand.

United Kingdom 2025 Bed, Bath & Beyond to Bruges

Bed, Bath and Beyond to Bruges

A “Bed” in Isle of Thanet in County Kent

I am blessed and grateful to have a “Bed” in Westgate on Sea at the lovely home of the “J’s” where the foot of said bed reaches out to meet the sea. A home base and a family I love to visit, gives me great opportunity to do short trips to wherever my heart desires.

My Playground (not necessarily rich or famous)

But before I leap ahead to Bath & Beyond to Bruges, come with me while I wander around county Kent with a brief foray to Sussex.

The list of things to see and do goes on and if you have a car it’s easy to get about and if you don’t the trains are everywhere in this eastern part of Kent known as the Isle of Thanet (because it once was an island).

Westgate-on Sea, Canterbury (yes that Canterbury) Margate, Broadstairs, Ramsgate, Sandwich, Deal and Dover, all within a short drive and all worth the trip if only to see some of the places where folks flood to for beach holidays in the summer.

Holiday makers are given the full treatment along this stretch of coast from beach bathing to amusements and rides such as those at Dreamland in Margate. Fish & chips and pints round out the day with easy stumbling back to one of many hotels or trains.

Thanet is not just a beach destination however, there are also beautiful stately homes with amazing gardens, famous cathedrals, castles, Roman ruins, museums and art galleries.

Quex Park – Once a Stately Home & Garden

The blue plaques on houses indicate that someone of note once stayed or lived therein. Charles Darwin wasn’t alone in Ramsgate, he was in good company with Vincent Van Gogh who spent some time working in a boys school there, documented by his brotherly letters to Theo. You can even plan your stroll around Ramsgate by following in his footsteps to his various haunts. Broadstairs is known to have hosted Charles Dickens for one, and museum there is dedicated to him.

County Sussex – Rye and Winchelsea for the Day

A little further afoot is the ancient town of Rye and a stones through further is Winchelsea.

Winchelsea, where Spike Milligan, Anglo-Irish comedian, author, etc., is buried with his famous Irish enscrtiption, “see I told you I was sick”.

Rye

A wander around the quaint little streets and lanes is the first thing you should do in Rye. As one of the best preserved medieval towns in England, the cobbled streets and the half-timbered buildings give it a story book look that is enchanting.

Mermaid Lane, Wish Street & Bluebell Lane – Some Street Names

Bath – From Roman Ruins to the Regency & Georgian Periods

A return to Bath seemed a good idea as I loved my first time there when I did a Cotswold walk with a friend (dear friend). The purpose of my visit was mainly to see this World Heritage Site again in all its splendour. It’s no wonder the Romans, enjoyed the spa waters as evidenced by one of the best-preserved Roman remains in the world. Not to be out down by the Romans I too took the waters in the modern Thermae Bath Spa, complete with roof top pool and series of steam rooms and saunas.

Sally Lunn – Oldest Restaurant in Bath (Not Cheapest)

Of course to speak of Bath without the mention of Jane Austin would be next to sacrilege, especially as 2025 is the 250th anniversary of her birth. Although she lived in Bath for only five years, Bath has done a good job of claiming her as their own. Festivals, promenades and dress-ups pay homage to this wonderful, funny, witty author who brought attention to the female mind.

Not to be forgotten Mary Shelley wrote Frankenstein in Bath revealing even more of the dexterity of the female mind and Bath boasts a museum dedicated to her famous monster.

Of course no slouch in architectural beauty, Bath is often the setting for films in need of Georgian or Regency scenery, including Bridgerton, Les Miserables, Vanity Fair and Persuasion to name a few.

Would I go back, you bet!

Beyond to Bruges

My nephew encouraged me to go to Bruges in Belgium and as you will see in the photos below it is an epic monument to medieval times. The energy that is created by modern day living amongst medieval architecture is always a delight to a western Canadian like me.

App of Note: In Bruge, Dubrovnik and Split, I used an app called GPSmycity and found it most helpful in planning my day. Not only does it help you with route planning it gives information about the places both in written and audio formats. Especially useful in places that are densely packed with things to see and do. Particularly good if you lack access or desire to join group tours. Let’s you wander and linger as you wish.

From the 9th to the 15th century Bruges was the northern seat of trade and commerce matching that of Venice in the south. The riches that resulted from being a centre of trade are abundantly evident through the city. At that time Bruges was connected to the sea by the river Reis which eventually silted up becoming impassable and Bruge faded into sleepy obscurity only to be rediscovered as a tourist Mecca in modern times.

The Markt and the Belfry (Belfort)

At the heart of Bruges, the bustling Markt square is lined with colourful gabled houses and cafes and at one end is a belfry that you can climb for a view of the city.

Burg Square & City Hall

A smaller, elegant square showcasing Bruges’s civic and religious power is home to a very ornate City Hall. The city chambers are open to the public and includes a history of the waterways and canals that made Bruge prosperous.

The Canals

The canals are the city’s lifeblood. A boat tour gives a magical view of Bruges from the water, especially around Rozenhoedkaai, the most photographed spot in town, where medieval buildings reflect perfectly in the water.

Gothic Churches and Towers

Of course a reminder of the influence of religion in medieval times is omnipresent in Bruges. Towering churches house treasures, art and other spoils and riches of the time. You can see Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child, one of his few sculptures outside Italy.

Church Attic with Ancient Timbers & Multi-Media

The Begijnhof

An idea ahead of its time? In the 13th C these whitewashed buildings formed a peaceful enclave for lay women who wanted to live a religious life free from marriage and children without becoming a nun. They were free to come and go as they pleased and many worked outside of the community. Today it’s a haven of silence for Benedictine nuns and a lovely contrast to the busy centre.

Windmills of Sint-Janshuismolen

If you fancy a walk to the edges of the city you will see historic windmills built on grassy mounds that could have been dykes or defensive ramparts. In one of them there is a museum but when I got there it was closed for lunch.

Modern Bruges

It’s easy to look to the past in Bruges and certainly that is the polished version that is resplendent for the purpose of tourism. But there are other things that continue to define Bruges and are very much alive and well. From lace making, beer, chocolate, confections and of course waffles, there is plenty to experience.

Balkans Part 4 – Self Catered Driving Tour

Self-Driving tour of Croatia with a dip into Bosnia & Herzegovina, a great way to have hotels and car organized for you with the freedom to wander off script between destinations. Seeing what you want to see without joining a tour group. Easy driving and good roads for the most part.

Croatia and Bosnia & Herzegovina

We opted to do a self-catered driving tour arranged by Tour Radar that booked all hotels and of course the car for us. They were very helpful and responsive to texts and emails through their app as we navigated around Croatia and Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Day 1 – Around Dubrovnik

When our driving tour actually commenced we left the Old City and moved to the new city of Dubrovnik. We picked up our car and headed to our first hotel, the Ivka. It was much nicer than we had anticipated and we actually had a suite with sitting room and all the mod-coms. Not your typical tiny euro hotel. Since we had already spent several days in Dubrovnik we used our first day with the car to venture north along the coast. It was a good idea as it gave us an sense of how the roads and the traffic behaved.

Driving north along the coast highway we were gobsmacked by the beauty of the scenery. We stopped frequently to take photos and visited small towns where we would park up and wander about, going where our noses took us. Although it was late October there were some very warm days which meant we had a few swims in the Adriatic.

Day 2 & 3 – Stone & Biograd

Leaving the Ivka hotel and its trendy university neighbourhood filled with locals enjoying pubs and restaurants, we headed north to Biograd. Of course with many stops to ooh and ahh at the scenery and invevitably we strayed off the beaten path a few times and ended up following our noses to Ston.

Ston turned about to be a wonderful side trip. Ston is an ancient town that boasts a Great Wall that in my mind measures up favourably against the Great Wall of China. Originally it was 7000 meters long and had three fortresses and six bastions. Now due to a variety of historical events such as an earthquake and various wars and incursions, it is much smaller but still impressive.

Returning to the main highway we motored on to Biograd that was at the end of a long day of driving, but the toll roads were excellent and had speed limits of 130 kph which helped speed things along. Biograd is meant to be a gateway to some national parks but for us it was a great two night resort stay. The hotel was lovely, right on the water and had the best indoor pool. Since it was late in the season we had the pool to ourselves. It was easy to spend a day wandering around Biograd, a fishing port and resort destination, there were several boat rental agencies offerings from small runabouts to luxurious yachts.

Day 5 – Split

Heading back South we spent a day exploring the Old City of Split. Like Dubrovnik it is a tourist Mecca complete with cruise ships and tour buses. A beautiful city with the same layers of history as the rest of Croatia, Split has some unique architectural features that distinguish it as a clear winner in the old city category.

Diocletian’s Palace is one of the biggest and most complete Roman sites. The Peristyle or square is at the heart of the palace and you can sit on marble steps that surround the crowded square to do some serious people watching.

The square leads to the Vestibule where traditional Dalmatian singing is performed for crowds enjoying the acoustics of the dome.

Traditional Dalmatian singers

Vestibule – Open Dome Acoustically Magic

The amazing things about these very old structures is that they still stand today, made of nearly indestructible materials they stand as they were. That is if they weren’t a victim of events like war or earthquake. (You certainly couldn’t say that about modern building practices.

For a fee in addition to a fee to visit the Cathedral you can climb to the top of the bell tower, up steep and slightly scary stairs with sharp corners and uneven steps. But the views are well worth the climb,

Ukrainian Tour Group of Injured Soldiers

A grim reminder of the war in Ukrainian was a tour group of Ukrainian veterans and their families inside the Old City. Many of the veterans are amputees and it was heartening to see them having some R&R.

Our hotel was not actually in Split itself but just outside in a place called Podstrana. A long narrow community that hugs the coastline and has lovely hotels and beaches. With sunsets like this we didn’t miss staying in the heart of Split and the drive along the seaside was beautiful.

Podstrana Beach – Evidence of Summer Fun, Parked Up For Now

Day 6 – Mostar – Bosnia & Herzegovina

The road to Mostar was another wonderful upward climb with spectacular scenery and viewpoints. And what a warm and welcoming country, maybe not as polished as Croatia but certainly charming, beautiful and interesting nevertheless.

Only a brief overnight foray, but long enough to see Mostar it was perhaps the most enlightening part of the trip in terms of the dissolution of the former Yugoslavia and the strife that arose as a result.

Mostar is another ancient city and one that strongly reflects the different cultural and religious groups that made up this area. Muslims, Christians, Orthodox and I suppose some “others” live among the well preserved ancient buildings and the still war ravaged structures that stand as a witness to the carnage that occurred during the 4 year siege of Mostar.

Many bombed out buildings and structures have been rebuilt like the old bridge that arches over the Neretva river. This most famous of bridges was first built between 1557 and 1566 during the time of Suleiman the Magnificent. The bridge was attacked an fell to the river in 1993 but has been carefully reconstructed and is now a UNESCO world heritage site.

Mosques, baths and a bazaar all built during the reign of the Turks make for a rewarding wander along the upper banks of the river and provide great views back to the famous bridge.

Mosques, Riverside Cafes & Ancient Turkish Bazaar

Day 7 & 8 End of the Line and Back to Dubrovnik

Down we went back to the coast with scenery that is the making of any successful road trip.

We drove on deciding to stop in Slano where the opportunity to have a swim and a walk presented itself.

Returning again to the Hotel Ivka in Dubrovnik we felt the need to see how olives and olive oil are produced and the desk clerk helped us set up a visit to a local farm to see and hear about the history of olive oil production.

So once again we headed out of Dubrovnik on our final day and ventured to the village of Orasac where a friendly gentlemen invited us into his shed where we saw a demonstration of how olive oil was produced before mass production took over.

Neighbours got together and picked olives from groves that were ready, the olives were ground down into a paste inside a stone mortar using horse power. The paste was then pressed in coconut fibre bags and the oil squeezed out. The remains were used for animal feed and compost for gardening. At the end of the day a communal dinner with farm fresh food and local wines made for a day of work and fun.

We were able to walk about the gardens and were given an opportunity to purchase olive oil made there and to taste and of course buy a rose brandy that was delicious.

Still a few hours before we headed to our next destination we visited another charming seaside town Trsteno. A final opportunity to swim in this fairy tale town was a great way to finish the day before the tour part was a wrap and we were once again civilians on our way to Cavtat

The Soccer Ball Pine Cone Tree (Not Really)

Balkans Part 3 – Dubrovnik Croatia

Old City Dubrovnik, crowded but lovely and charming…a collection of history, beautiful architecture, tour groups and proof of every day living in an ancient place.

Taking the bus from Kotor in Montenegro to Dubrovnik in Croatia seems to be the only option if you don’t have a car. It’s a beautiful trip, cheap, but not necessarily punctual, but eventually it gets you there and the border crossing is easy. (By not punctual I mean a 2.5 hour delay in leaving Kotor Bus Station with no information of reason or eta.)

In Dubrovnik, city traffic is bustling, there are loads of cruise ships and bus loads of tourists, all descending on Dubrovnik even this late in the season. In addition, regular flights from all over and ferry boats from other countries arrive constantly making for a very touristy place. Getting around is easy on public transportation and uber is efficient and much cheaper than taxis.

The reason so many people start here is that Dubrovnik is a stunning city — full of history, coastal beauty, and culture. There are so many things to do, depending on your interests and how long you’re staying. It also serves as a gateway to the rest of Croatia with great roadways and ease of driving.

We arrived a few days before our booked driving tour and stayed right in the thrum of things in the Old City behind the ancient walls. Such a wonderful example of how a place can absorb and reflect culture over a thousand years or so. This UNESCO heritage site deserves its designation just for the City Walls.

Walking the City Walls is apparently a must-do in Dubrovnik! The full circuit takes about 1.5–2 hours, offering incredible views over the old town, terracotta roofs, and the Adriatic Sea.

But, I chose to spend my time wandering the Old Town (Stari Grad). Strolling the marble streets of this UNESCO World Heritage site you will come upon the Stradun (main street), leading to the Rector’s Palace, Sponza Palace, a Franciscan Monastery (with Europe’s oldest pharmacy). Not to be left out, the Dubrovnik Cathedral & Treasury all Beautiful Baroque architecture. You can also get a different perspective with a short climb outside the city walls, offering panoramic views and fewer crowds.

Stradum (Main Street) – Franciscan Church & Monastery

Food and drink, claiming local heritage is everywhere in the old city. One place that came highly recommended was Pipi’s and there’s a photo that follows that will enlighten you as to the origin of the name. Eating out was expensive, so to cut costs, we had breakfast in our room and shared dishes that would have been too much food for one.

Cafe’s, Pubs & Restaurant Abound – Fewer Tourists at Night

Pipi’s – Restaurant with Acclaimed Views

Part of the fun of wandering the Old City is visiting the trinket, souvenir and candy shops. During the daytime the streets and shops are so packed with tourists that if you’re a solo traveler you will welcome the night time when the Old City streets empty to some degree and wandering about becomes much more enjoyable.

Game of Thrones

Dubrovnik was King’s Landing in the series that I’m sure most of you have knowledge of. Visit filming sites like Pile Gate, Jesuit Staircase (Cersei’s “walk of shame”), Fort Lovrijenac, and taking a dedicated tour of settings is something many folks enjoy about the Old City.

In spite of its touristy function, the Old City is home to some brave souls who abide not only the crowds but the long treks up to their homes.

Stairway to Residences – Very Steep & Long

Enjoying the back lanes and the artistic touches of the merchants and residents was much more relaxing than navigating the crowds at the established tourist sites. So many quirky and delightful scenarios if you stand still a minute and let your eye wander.

Old Town Phuket

Surin, Kamala, Pukhet & Karon Beaches

Surin Beach

Kamala Beach

Patong Beach

Karon Beach

Patong and Surrounding Areas

Banga Street & Shopping Zone

Big Buddha

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Krabi Province

Koh Lanta

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Culture and Malls Go Together?

Another Kind of Mall Featuring Thai Culture

Chao Phraya River – Best Way to Get Around

The Asiatique

China Town

Cityscapes from the Chao Phraya

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A “Bed” in Isle of Thanet in County Kent

County Sussex – Rye and Winchelsea for the Day

Bath – From Roman Ruins to the Regency & Georgian Periods

Beyond to Bruges

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Game of Thrones

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