Travel writing – Wander With Stella

United Kingdom 2025 Bed, Bath & Beyond to Bruges

Bed, Bath and Beyond to Bruges

A “Bed” in Isle of Thanet in County Kent

I am blessed and grateful to have a “Bed” in Westgate on Sea at the lovely home of the “J’s” where the foot of said bed reaches out to meet the sea. A home base and a family I love to visit, gives me great opportunity to do short trips to wherever my heart desires.

My Playground (not necessarily rich or famous)

But before I leap ahead to Bath & Beyond to Bruges, come with me while I wander around county Kent with a brief foray to Sussex.

The list of things to see and do goes on and if you have a car it’s easy to get about and if you don’t the trains are everywhere in this eastern part of Kent known as the Isle of Thanet (because it once was an island).

Westgate-on Sea, Canterbury (yes that Canterbury) Margate, Broadstairs, Ramsgate, Sandwich, Deal and Dover, all within a short drive and all worth the trip if only to see some of the places where folks flood to for beach holidays in the summer.

Holiday makers are given the full treatment along this stretch of coast from beach bathing to amusements and rides such as those at Dreamland in Margate. Fish & chips and pints round out the day with easy stumbling back to one of many hotels or trains.

Thanet is not just a beach destination however, there are also beautiful stately homes with amazing gardens, famous cathedrals, castles, Roman ruins, museums and art galleries.

Quex Park – Once a Stately Home & Garden

The blue plaques on houses indicate that someone of note once stayed or lived therein. Charles Darwin wasn’t alone in Ramsgate, he was in good company with Vincent Van Gogh who spent some time working in a boys school there, documented by his brotherly letters to Theo. You can even plan your stroll around Ramsgate by following in his footsteps to his various haunts. Broadstairs is known to have hosted Charles Dickens for one, and museum there is dedicated to him.

County Sussex – Rye and Winchelsea for the Day

A little further afoot is the ancient town of Rye and a stones through further is Winchelsea.

Winchelsea, where Spike Milligan, Anglo-Irish comedian, author, etc., is buried with his famous Irish enscrtiption, “see I told you I was sick”.

Rye

A wander around the quaint little streets and lanes is the first thing you should do in Rye. As one of the best preserved medieval towns in England, the cobbled streets and the half-timbered buildings give it a story book look that is enchanting.

Mermaid Lane, Wish Street & Bluebell Lane – Some Street Names

Bath – From Roman Ruins to the Regency & Georgian Periods

A return to Bath seemed a good idea as I loved my first time there when I did a Cotswold walk with a friend (dear friend). The purpose of my visit was mainly to see this World Heritage Site again in all its splendour. It’s no wonder the Romans, enjoyed the spa waters as evidenced by one of the best-preserved Roman remains in the world. Not to be out down by the Romans I too took the waters in the modern Thermae Bath Spa, complete with roof top pool and series of steam rooms and saunas.

Sally Lunn – Oldest Restaurant in Bath (Not Cheapest)

Of course to speak of Bath without the mention of Jane Austin would be next to sacrilege, especially as 2025 is the 250th anniversary of her birth. Although she lived in Bath for only five years, Bath has done a good job of claiming her as their own. Festivals, promenades and dress-ups pay homage to this wonderful, funny, witty author who brought attention to the female mind.

Not to be forgotten Mary Shelley wrote Frankenstein in Bath revealing even more of the dexterity of the female mind and Bath boasts a museum dedicated to her famous monster.

Of course no slouch in architectural beauty, Bath is often the setting for films in need of Georgian or Regency scenery, including Bridgerton, Les Miserables, Vanity Fair and Persuasion to name a few.

Would I go back, you bet!

Beyond to Bruges

My nephew encouraged me to go to Bruges in Belgium and as you will see in the photos below it is an epic monument to medieval times. The energy that is created by modern day living amongst medieval architecture is always a delight to a western Canadian like me.

App of Note: In Bruge, Dubrovnik and Split, I used an app called GPSmycity and found it most helpful in planning my day. Not only does it help you with route planning it gives information about the places both in written and audio formats. Especially useful in places that are densely packed with things to see and do. Particularly good if you lack access or desire to join group tours. Let’s you wander and linger as you wish.

From the 9th to the 15th century Bruges was the northern seat of trade and commerce matching that of Venice in the south. The riches that resulted from being a centre of trade are abundantly evident through the city. At that time Bruges was connected to the sea by the river Reis which eventually silted up becoming impassable and Bruge faded into sleepy obscurity only to be rediscovered as a tourist Mecca in modern times.

The Markt and the Belfry (Belfort)

At the heart of Bruges, the bustling Markt square is lined with colourful gabled houses and cafes and at one end is a belfry that you can climb for a view of the city.

Burg Square & City Hall

A smaller, elegant square showcasing Bruges’s civic and religious power is home to a very ornate City Hall. The city chambers are open to the public and includes a history of the waterways and canals that made Bruge prosperous.

The Canals

The canals are the city’s lifeblood. A boat tour gives a magical view of Bruges from the water, especially around Rozenhoedkaai, the most photographed spot in town, where medieval buildings reflect perfectly in the water.

Gothic Churches and Towers

Of course a reminder of the influence of religion in medieval times is omnipresent in Bruges. Towering churches house treasures, art and other spoils and riches of the time. You can see Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child, one of his few sculptures outside Italy.

Church Attic with Ancient Timbers & Multi-Media

The Begijnhof

An idea ahead of its time? In the 13th C these whitewashed buildings formed a peaceful enclave for lay women who wanted to live a religious life free from marriage and children without becoming a nun. They were free to come and go as they pleased and many worked outside of the community. Today it’s a haven of silence for Benedictine nuns and a lovely contrast to the busy centre.

Windmills of Sint-Janshuismolen

If you fancy a walk to the edges of the city you will see historic windmills built on grassy mounds that could have been dykes or defensive ramparts. In one of them there is a museum but when I got there it was closed for lunch.

Modern Bruges

It’s easy to look to the past in Bruges and certainly that is the polished version that is resplendent for the purpose of tourism. But there are other things that continue to define Bruges and are very much alive and well. From lace making, beer, chocolate, confections and of course waffles, there is plenty to experience.

Balkans Part 4 – Self Catered Driving Tour

Self-Driving tour of Croatia with a dip into Bosnia & Herzegovina, a great way to have hotels and car organized for you with the freedom to wander off script between destinations. Seeing what you want to see without joining a tour group. Easy driving and good roads for the most part.

Croatia and Bosnia & Herzegovina

We opted to do a self-catered driving tour arranged by Tour Radar that booked all hotels and of course the car for us. They were very helpful and responsive to texts and emails through their app as we navigated around Croatia and Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Day 1 – Around Dubrovnik

When our driving tour actually commenced we left the Old City and moved to the new city of Dubrovnik. We picked up our car and headed to our first hotel, the Ivka. It was much nicer than we had anticipated and we actually had a suite with sitting room and all the mod-coms. Not your typical tiny euro hotel. Since we had already spent several days in Dubrovnik we used our first day with the car to venture north along the coast. It was a good idea as it gave us an sense of how the roads and the traffic behaved.

Driving north along the coast highway we were gobsmacked by the beauty of the scenery. We stopped frequently to take photos and visited small towns where we would park up and wander about, going where our noses took us. Although it was late October there were some very warm days which meant we had a few swims in the Adriatic.

Day 2 & 3 – Stone & Biograd

Leaving the Ivka hotel and its trendy university neighbourhood filled with locals enjoying pubs and restaurants, we headed north to Biograd. Of course with many stops to ooh and ahh at the scenery and invevitably we strayed off the beaten path a few times and ended up following our noses to Ston.

Ston turned about to be a wonderful side trip. Ston is an ancient town that boasts a Great Wall that in my mind measures up favourably against the Great Wall of China. Originally it was 7000 meters long and had three fortresses and six bastions. Now due to a variety of historical events such as an earthquake and various wars and incursions, it is much smaller but still impressive.

Returning to the main highway we motored on to Biograd that was at the end of a long day of driving, but the toll roads were excellent and had speed limits of 130 kph which helped speed things along. Biograd is meant to be a gateway to some national parks but for us it was a great two night resort stay. The hotel was lovely, right on the water and had the best indoor pool. Since it was late in the season we had the pool to ourselves. It was easy to spend a day wandering around Biograd, a fishing port and resort destination, there were several boat rental agencies offerings from small runabouts to luxurious yachts.

Day 5 – Split

Heading back South we spent a day exploring the Old City of Split. Like Dubrovnik it is a tourist Mecca complete with cruise ships and tour buses. A beautiful city with the same layers of history as the rest of Croatia, Split has some unique architectural features that distinguish it as a clear winner in the old city category.

Diocletian’s Palace is one of the biggest and most complete Roman sites. The Peristyle or square is at the heart of the palace and you can sit on marble steps that surround the crowded square to do some serious people watching.

The square leads to the Vestibule where traditional Dalmatian singing is performed for crowds enjoying the acoustics of the dome.

Traditional Dalmatian singers

Vestibule – Open Dome Acoustically Magic

The amazing things about these very old structures is that they still stand today, made of nearly indestructible materials they stand as they were. That is if they weren’t a victim of events like war or earthquake. (You certainly couldn’t say that about modern building practices.

For a fee in addition to a fee to visit the Cathedral you can climb to the top of the bell tower, up steep and slightly scary stairs with sharp corners and uneven steps. But the views are well worth the climb,

Ukrainian Tour Group of Injured Soldiers

A grim reminder of the war in Ukrainian was a tour group of Ukrainian veterans and their families inside the Old City. Many of the veterans are amputees and it was heartening to see them having some R&R.

Our hotel was not actually in Split itself but just outside in a place called Podstrana. A long narrow community that hugs the coastline and has lovely hotels and beaches. With sunsets like this we didn’t miss staying in the heart of Split and the drive along the seaside was beautiful.

Podstrana Beach – Evidence of Summer Fun, Parked Up For Now

Day 6 – Mostar – Bosnia & Herzegovina

The road to Mostar was another wonderful upward climb with spectacular scenery and viewpoints. And what a warm and welcoming country, maybe not as polished as Croatia but certainly charming, beautiful and interesting nevertheless.

Only a brief overnight foray, but long enough to see Mostar it was perhaps the most enlightening part of the trip in terms of the dissolution of the former Yugoslavia and the strife that arose as a result.

Mostar is another ancient city and one that strongly reflects the different cultural and religious groups that made up this area. Muslims, Christians, Orthodox and I suppose some “others” live among the well preserved ancient buildings and the still war ravaged structures that stand as a witness to the carnage that occurred during the 4 year siege of Mostar.

Many bombed out buildings and structures have been rebuilt like the old bridge that arches over the Neretva river. This most famous of bridges was first built between 1557 and 1566 during the time of Suleiman the Magnificent. The bridge was attacked an fell to the river in 1993 but has been carefully reconstructed and is now a UNESCO world heritage site.

Mosques, baths and a bazaar all built during the reign of the Turks make for a rewarding wander along the upper banks of the river and provide great views back to the famous bridge.

Mosques, Riverside Cafes & Ancient Turkish Bazaar

Day 7 & 8 End of the Line and Back to Dubrovnik

Down we went back to the coast with scenery that is the making of any successful road trip.

We drove on deciding to stop in Slano where the opportunity to have a swim and a walk presented itself.

Returning again to the Hotel Ivka in Dubrovnik we felt the need to see how olives and olive oil are produced and the desk clerk helped us set up a visit to a local farm to see and hear about the history of olive oil production.

So once again we headed out of Dubrovnik on our final day and ventured to the village of Orasac where a friendly gentlemen invited us into his shed where we saw a demonstration of how olive oil was produced before mass production took over.

Neighbours got together and picked olives from groves that were ready, the olives were ground down into a paste inside a stone mortar using horse power. The paste was then pressed in coconut fibre bags and the oil squeezed out. The remains were used for animal feed and compost for gardening. At the end of the day a communal dinner with farm fresh food and local wines made for a day of work and fun.

We were able to walk about the gardens and were given an opportunity to purchase olive oil made there and to taste and of course buy a rose brandy that was delicious.

Still a few hours before we headed to our next destination we visited another charming seaside town Trsteno. A final opportunity to swim in this fairy tale town was a great way to finish the day before the tour part was a wrap and we were once again civilians on our way to Cavtat

The Soccer Ball Pine Cone Tree (Not Really)

Balkans Part 3 – Dubrovnik Croatia

Old City Dubrovnik, crowded but lovely and charming…a collection of history, beautiful architecture, tour groups and proof of every day living in an ancient place.

Taking the bus from Kotor in Montenegro to Dubrovnik in Croatia seems to be the only option if you don’t have a car. It’s a beautiful trip, cheap, but not necessarily punctual, but eventually it gets you there and the border crossing is easy. (By not punctual I mean a 2.5 hour delay in leaving Kotor Bus Station with no information of reason or eta.)

In Dubrovnik, city traffic is bustling, there are loads of cruise ships and bus loads of tourists, all descending on Dubrovnik even this late in the season. In addition, regular flights from all over and ferry boats from other countries arrive constantly making for a very touristy place. Getting around is easy on public transportation and uber is efficient and much cheaper than taxis.

The reason so many people start here is that Dubrovnik is a stunning city — full of history, coastal beauty, and culture. There are so many things to do, depending on your interests and how long you’re staying. It also serves as a gateway to the rest of Croatia with great roadways and ease of driving.

We arrived a few days before our booked driving tour and stayed right in the thrum of things in the Old City behind the ancient walls. Such a wonderful example of how a place can absorb and reflect culture over a thousand years or so. This UNESCO heritage site deserves its designation just for the City Walls.

Walking the City Walls is apparently a must-do in Dubrovnik! The full circuit takes about 1.5–2 hours, offering incredible views over the old town, terracotta roofs, and the Adriatic Sea.

But, I chose to spend my time wandering the Old Town (Stari Grad). Strolling the marble streets of this UNESCO World Heritage site you will come upon the Stradun (main street), leading to the Rector’s Palace, Sponza Palace, a Franciscan Monastery (with Europe’s oldest pharmacy). Not to be left out, the Dubrovnik Cathedral & Treasury all Beautiful Baroque architecture. You can also get a different perspective with a short climb outside the city walls, offering panoramic views and fewer crowds.

Stradum (Main Street) – Franciscan Church & Monastery

Food and drink, claiming local heritage is everywhere in the old city. One place that came highly recommended was Pipi’s and there’s a photo that follows that will enlighten you as to the origin of the name. Eating out was expensive, so to cut costs, we had breakfast in our room and shared dishes that would have been too much food for one.

Cafe’s, Pubs & Restaurant Abound – Fewer Tourists at Night

Pipi’s – Restaurant with Acclaimed Views

Part of the fun of wandering the Old City is visiting the trinket, souvenir and candy shops. During the daytime the streets and shops are so packed with tourists that if you’re a solo traveler you will welcome the night time when the Old City streets empty to some degree and wandering about becomes much more enjoyable.

Game of Thrones

Dubrovnik was King’s Landing in the series that I’m sure most of you have knowledge of. Visit filming sites like Pile Gate, Jesuit Staircase (Cersei’s “walk of shame”), Fort Lovrijenac, and taking a dedicated tour of settings is something many folks enjoy about the Old City.

In spite of its touristy function, the Old City is home to some brave souls who abide not only the crowds but the long treks up to their homes.

Stairway to Residences – Very Steep & Long

Enjoying the back lanes and the artistic touches of the merchants and residents was much more relaxing than navigating the crowds at the established tourist sites. So many quirky and delightful scenarios if you stand still a minute and let your eye wander.

The Western Balkans Part 2

Four days in Kotor, Montenegro….not long enough but so beautiful.

Montenegro

Crossing the border on the bus from Albania was relatively easy and fast given that everyone had to get off the bus and line up at the customs booth.

As soon as you enter Montenegro you are swept away by the majesty of the landscape. If you took a broom and swept up all the beautiful bits of the Western Balkans, making a tidy pile of mountains, oceans and scenic villages, you would have Montenegro. Smaller than the other Balkan countries it is not to be outdone because of its size.

Lots of Beauty Packed Into a Small Country

Small though it is, there wasn’t enough time to do everything on my list. I visited the capital, Podgorica long enough to change buses and then set up in Kotor for four days.

Kotor is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it is a stunning example of a medieval town surrounded by fjord-like mountains. Staying in an air BnB just outside of the old town gave us easy access to the walled city and the quieter residential areas where normal life goes on. Kotor is also the gateway to several other places of interest nearby including Budva, a beach town with an ancient look, historic Cetinje the capital of the mountain region and Durmitor National Park where folks go to hike, raft and ski. Sadly we only got to one, Perast and an ancient Venetian port.

Four Days in Kotor

Day one of four was spent visiting the Old Town, the medieval fort is quite interesting and the layers of history complex and intriguing.

The town is a medieval maze of churches, cafe-lined squares and Venetian palaces. If you were to rummage about in the treasure chest that is Kotor you would come up with one cathedral, five churches and many Venetian piazzas and of course a castle. The whole treasure chest is held together with a wall that didn’t want to quit and so snaked its way up the mountain. If you’d like you can climb it. Be my guest.

There are several museums including a town museum, a maritime museum but if you’re looking for something funky be sure and take in the Cat museum. Not to be missed in my books.

One of Thousands of Cat Illustrations in the Kotor Cat Museum

There is a down-side to Kotor and that is its popularity. Cruise ships and bus tours arrive with without regard to the lone travellers and they flood the old town with clutches of cruisers all crushed behind the flag bearing guide that tours them about in whatever language best suits them.

Besides being famous for the Old Town, Kotor is a beach town and all that that presents in the way of water sports and activities. One of our highlights was a boat tour around the Bay of Kotor that took in man made caves that were used to hide Yugoslavian submarines. Huge and cavernous there are three or four of them along a shore and apparently they are all connected by underground tunnels.

We also circumnavigated an old prison, now a five star hotel in the middle of the bay. Apparently it is thousands of euros per night. Maybe next time.

We also visited and went ashore on the famous islet of Our Lady of the Rocks. Legend has it that somewhere back in the 15th century two fisherman brothers put in on the island and found a statue of the Virgin Mary. Taking it home they awoke to find it gone but upon returning to the island they discovered it had returned to where they found it. And so a miracle was declared a church was built and they all lived happily ever after. Nearby there is another island with and old convent, St. George, but it is not open to the public.

On the way back the captain of our tour boat offered me a chance to take the helm and I couldn’t say no. It was a good tour and a beautiful day, one of the only ones we had in Kotor. It rained heartily a good deal of the time and there was a sick day given a cold likely resulting from fluctuating temperatures.

As mentioned earlier we had time only to visit Perast an ancient Venetian Port that boasts 16 churches and 17 grand palazzi that date back to the 17th century. We arrived during daylight but stayed long enough to enjoy the sunset, have a lovely dinner and wander the streets to see the old buildings prettily lit for the evening.

And so I left Montenegro without having accomplished much of what I’d hoped to, between the weather and a sick day, time and moving about were limited. But Montenegro is definitely on my “hope to return one day list.”

Wanderings in The Western Balkans

Albania a must go destination before it’s fully appreciated and discovered!

Part One – Albania

The Western Balkan are so named as they share the western slopes of the Balkan Mountain Range and include: Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, North Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia and Kosovo. Although my wanderings only took me to Albania, Montenegro, Croatia and a brief visit to Bosnia & Herzegovina, the other Western Balkans countries are said to share the same beautiful landscapes and rich cultural backgrounds. With the exception of Albania and the addition of Slovenia these were the countries that made up the former Yugoslavia.

The Albanian Riviera

When planing to visit Albania from the UK, the cheapest flights were from Gatwick Airport to Corfu in Greece. From Corfu there is an inexpensive ferry to Albania. It is a short crossing of just over an hour to the city of Sarande, the centre of the Albanian “Riviera”.

The Albanian “riviera” is rapidly becoming known for its beautiful beaches and has become an alternative to other more crowded and expensive European beach destinations. As a result it attracts beach party enthusiasts and the many beautiful beaches that extend from Vlore in the North to Ksamil in the South are said to be a beach lovers paradise, and with the exception of Ksamil which we soon found out, can be quite affordable.

Sarande the Gateway to the Albanian Riviera

Having read that the beaches got nicer south of Sarande we headed for Ksamil. The hotel and beach scene there left a lot to be desired. The Lonely Planet guide says that it twice as expensive as the other Albanian Riviera spots.

Ksamil is an interesting place and even though it was end of season the place was still relatively crowded but we managed a soak in the sun and a swim in the sea during our overnight stay.

Enjoying Agri-tourism in Albania

After a night in Ksamil, we took a local bus back to Sarande and caught an intercity bus to Durre, a busy coastal port town that deserved more time than we could give it. We were in Durre long enough to pick up a rental car.

There are definitely some things that I would recommend doing differently in Albania. One would be to have more that three or four days, the distances are longer than expected given that buses are the only mode of inter-city travel. The schedules you find on-line don’t always match up with reality and although the buses are inexpensive they are intermittent and sometimes slow going.

Once we realized the limitations of bus travel in Albania, we quickly regrouped and decided to focus on a growing sector of Albanian tourism, that of Agritourism, which given its remote aspect, justified the rental car.

There are many options to choose from but most of the farms offer accommodation, farm to table cuisines, local wines and beautiful scenery.

We loved our two nights at the “Hani I Leks” Torshavn Lezhe farm. Gorgeous setting with amazing sunsets, cozy cabin and farm to table meals. Dinner the first night was a pre-set menu with appetizers that never quit coming: three cheeses, olives, bread, marinated vegetables, an entire family sized bowl of tossed green salad, grapes, yogurt dips etc, followed by the main course of lamb, slow roasted fall off the bone! No room for the desert after all of that.

Breakfasts at the farm were just as elaborate as the dinners. Starting with deep fried bannock-like fritters drizzled with honey, followed by the main course of tomatoes, cucumbers, eggs, bread, sweet buns, and a rolled crepe filled with Nutella. All this accompanied by yogurt and a sweet white porridge. Then just when you can’t eat another bite, comes breakfast desert, flans and grapes. It seems impossible to starve in Albania!

Having the car to explore the area was really a good idea. We’ve been finding that the average price for a taxi or a car/driver is close to 40 CAD and that’s for short distances, making the renting of a car a much cheaper alternative, and gave us much more freedom to get out into the countryside.

Thanksgiving’s Coming

Being up in the mountains meant it was cooler in the evenings and the first night there was an impressive thunder storm which made our cozy cabin more welcoming. The AGRO-TURIZEM thing is really the way to go if you want to experience the countryside and overall the roads aren’t too bad. The second night was a sunset delight, moon rising and star watching with a bottle of Albanian red on a patio suspended over the valley.

Shengjin a Seaside Town

We spent our exploration day cruising through small towns wending our way down to the beach town of Shengjin on the ocean side of Lethe. Our kind of place. If I went back to Albania and wanted beach time I would head here. Lovely clear water, more locals (fewer party people) and regular prices. Easy to rent a chaise and umbrella and have a good swim.

The Lezhe area has several AGRO-TURIZEM places and we visited one close by our own for a late lunch. It had gotten high ratings which as we discovered were well deserved. The Mrizi i Zanave farm is a busy place filled with areas of interests: flower gardens, children’s play areas, livestock and a market store full of farm made treats. There is no menu, as you are served only what is fresh and prepared in the kitchen. A welcome drink of rose water is followed by at least five or six plates of appetizers that crossed our table before the main of baby goat arrived. Albanian house wines are delicious and for this meal we tried a white. The appetizers were really varied between grilled, marinated and fresh vegetables, accompanied by three types of cheeses and a type of very tasty prosciutto.

The place was quite large and being a farm had vineyards, wheat crops and the animals including goats that nibbled away at a corn crib about twenty feet heigh. We passed several corn fields that had clearly “finished” for the year so we missed corn season but it seems that much of it is used for animal feed.

Mountains, valleys, the Adriatic Sea and beautiful skies are the hallmarks of Albania. Being out of the cities and on the winding country roads, passing small villages, crossing narrow bridges over meandering streams and rivers makes for a very pretty passing. Country settings give you a better sense of life for average Albanians who are striving to gain pace with the rest of Europe.

Albanian History

Always when I wander I wonder about the original peoples of a region and the history that followed. Clearly Albania evolved through many time periods each one influencing language, architecture, art, politics, economics and cultural beliefs.

One of the most recent regimes occurred between 1945 to 1992. It was an oppressive, Stalinist regime led by Enver Hoxha, marked by “extreme isolationism, pervasive surveillance, and economic neglect.”Hoxha and his party controlled all aspects of life, executing thousands and imprisoning tens of thousands, while shifting alliances from the Soviet Union to China before completely isolating itself. The regime ultimately collapsed amid economic crisis in 1990, leading to the establishment of a democratic state that is now working to join the European Union. One of the lasting reminders of the regime is thousands of cement bunkers built across the country with the goal of having one for every man.

Albania is now gaining ground economically which some hope will end in entry to the European Union. The LEK not the Euro is the currency and be warned that it is not easily exchanged to other currencies once you leave the country.

Four brief days in Albania was just a teaser. There are so many historic and interesting sites that we had to pass by as we made our way by bus to Montenegro. I’ve seen enough though to peak my interest and will hope to return one day with several more days and a full-time car to go deeper on this interesting country.

Frida Spotting of Course – I Rarely Don’t See Her Wherever I Go

BELIZE IT…A Central American Countries Slogan

Belize will soon be a fond memory of a country of happy, friendly people…..

Getting from Bacalar Mexico to Belize involved a 12 plus hour day of vans and local buses. Adrenalina tours – Guatemala, does hotel pick-ups in Bacalar and one van took us as far as the Belize Border where we cleared customs and boarded another van on the Belize side that took us to Belmopan the capital of Belize, but not before we changed vans again in Belize City.

Stopping in Belize City was somewhat of a surprise as we thought our route skirted the city and went directly to Belmopan. The bus depot shares space with the San Pedro Water Taxi dock where strangely, we were treated to a Chinese New Years Dragon Dance and fire cracker display. Loud and smokey we took refuge behind any available nose covering while simultaneously using our fingers as ear protection against the fireworks.

In Belmopan, the capital, it was a several hour wait for a local bus that would take us to Seine Bight our final destination. With the first instruction being “get off at the Jaguar Lanes” the driver and his helper seemed to know exactly where we were headed. The bus loaded with locals was comfortable and part way across the Hummingbird Highway to the coast a woman boarded selling Cinnamon bread and of course a purchase was made. Good thing as it was breakfast the next morning. Passing along the highway you are able to see the Maya mountain area of green fields, plantations and country homes. Beautiful scenery.

By the time the bus reached the “Jaguar Lanes” it was dark and we followed our next instruction which was walk to the junction turn left and keep coming. Even in the dark our noses didn’t fail us and there, just ahead “The Lazy Crab”.

Two prefabricated cabins along with the owners larger home, hover around a pool on a freshly planted garden which one day will provide some much needed shade. Palms and tropical flowering plants are planted in a sand soil which is raked regularly by the gardener.

Our unit “The Sea Horse” is small but comfortable and the front porch gives us another room for outdoor living. The prefabs are made by the local Mennonites and one day two of them came by with a drone to make a promotional video to attract other potential buyers. In this post-covid world it took all three of us to cover the cost of a month in Belize. What a difference from pre-covid days.

One Bedroom, One Bath and Day Bed (Mine)

The Belizean dollar declares itself permanently tied to the American dollar by half, using “pegging” as a means of stabilizing currency. American dollars come as change or you are welcome to pay with them.

Where Are We?

We are on a spit of land that runs north to south along the Caribbean coast of Belize and it is riddled with channels and lagoons on its backside and beautiful sand beaches on its front. Major developments mainly north of Seine Bight are springing up and the wealthy who can afford to are building monstrously big houses in stark contrast to the homes of the locals. Lots of foreign built and owned properties are for sale everywhere you look. Is it speculation, buyers remorse or need or want to repatriate?

Our hosts were helpful in providing information regarding distances, restaurants, beaches and groceries. So we set about discovering our neighbourhood. We are some distance from Placencia which was somewhat of a surprise. The buses and vans are hard to nail down as schedules are allusive and designated stops non-existent but after a few days we worked out how to get into Placencia and back but chose to do most of our shopping here at Maya Beach or further on down the road in Seine Bight.

A cab to Placencia and back costs as much as $60. USD so finding local transport is essential. The Isthmus narrows and widens as it wends its way south to Placencia and is crisscrossed by canals and lagoons, sometimes you can see water on both sides of the isthmus.

Although we have ventured into Placencia a few times and we have taken two tours we have spent most of our time at Maya Beach. It has become our ‘hood’. We have a pub, restaurant, pool hall and bowling alley “all in one” at the end of our lane. Our favourite beach which we have dubbed “first beach” after Stanley Park’s numbered beaches is a ten minute walk and even one drink will buy you a full day of beach, chaise long, pool and palm trees. Their menu is small but the food is good and the shrimp salad is repeat worthy.

Palms Overhead Shade at the Ceiba Beach Resort

Just a little further along the beach are second and third beach, otherwise known as the Green Parrot and Mangos. Similar to the Ceiba Resort, you can use the beach and chairs but not necessarily the pool. If you come to Belize for the beach and you can afford it Maya Beach is a great area and in spite of a large expat community, we’ve been able to meet many of the locals at Jaguar Lanes and other places. Belizeans are very friendly and it’s not unusual to be greeted warmly and even welcomed to the country as I was by an older gentleman in the Belmopan bus station.

In a short span of time it is easy to encounter someone from one of the three main Belizean groups of people. The Creole are decedants of African slaves and Europeans and they speak their own unique and local variation of English. Mestizo is the name given to people with Maya and Spanish ancestry and they generally speak Spanish. The Maya are a small group who claim direct decendancy and speak Maya. English is the official language of Belize as a former British colony, but I read that 64% Belizeans speak all the languages.

Seine Bight – Closest Bigger Shopping Stop

Since we were staying a month, groceries and home-cooking was warranted and the next biggest shopping opportunities were in Seine Bight. Of course getting there was a bit of a challenge but at least a taxi ride back when you’re laden with bags is affordable. The town itself is interesting and appears to be a Creole settlement.

Which Tour to Pick….so much to do!

Diving, sailing, snorkeling, fishing, caving, Maya ruins, wildlife and hiking is a start to what you can consider while in Belize.

Snorkeling on the Great Belizean Barrier Reef

Fortunately, we stumbled across a small tour office on our way to Maya Beach one day and met the tour guide Evers. He operates small tours, which are best, and we booked to go snorkeling with him out on the Great Belize Coral Reef. The second largest next to the Australian Great Barrier Reef, it is heaven for divers and snorkelers alike.

The tour price included transport to Placencia where we launched off to visit the Silk Caye. It was quite a long boat trip but very enjoyable, windy but sunny and the colour of the water was spectacular. Ever was knowledgeable and was both our tour and snorkelling guide, pointing out various underwater species and making sure we were all huddled safely together like the fish we were looking at.

Silk Caye boasts more than 35 species of fish including whale sharks, barracudas, snappers, shrimp and many more. There is a huge variety of coral. All different sizes and shapes it is well worth the efforts to save this endangered reef, now declared a World Heritage Sight. My underwater camera bag failed me and none of my photos give snorkeling here there due.

Lots of Conch Shells Laying on the Sea Floor

There were only five of us which made for lots of time for discussion and questions. The coral reef around Silk Caye was impressive, although earth tones mainly, the variety of coral was amazing and Ever had brought along a laminated sheet listing all the various kinds. Plenty of fish of brilliant colours and the odd lobster too. We also had lunch on Silk Caye which is a national marine reserve and then we were off to visit turtles, manta rays, sharks and various fish further out on the reef.

Homeward bound we stopped at Ray Caye, a private resort island that allows non-guests to eat, drink, use their pool and even zip down their water slide at the end of a double decker pier. Lots of fun and a good way to end the day before heading back to Placencia.

Cave Tubing

Tour Two was a cave-tubing adventure north of Maya Beach so we got to see a whole new area. Cave Bransh or Nohoch Che’en is one of the top 10 things to do in Belize and it is was a lot of fun but there were hoards of people, but Ever kept us all together in our small group of four and even offered us a look at Hopkins a town on the way back to the Isthmus.

Hopkins Another Beach Town

Hopkins, on the northern part of the Isthmus is really cool and is another potential place to stay if you’re beaching it but especially good for easy access to fishing and the Great Belizean Reef.

Placencia

Placencia is a delightful hodgepodge of beachfront restaurants bars, buildings on stilts and a central boardwalk that runs the length of the town. If you’re after shopping and looking for souvenirs it is a great place to wander and chat with the locals. The Maya have a firm grip on the souvenir market, selling beaded goods, hats, baskets and woven goods. Not only are they sold in the shops in Placencia you can also buy them from the lovely Maya women who walk the beaches plying their wares in the least aggressive or offensive way possible. I have purchased some small baskets and some great local hot sauces. I really like the carved wooden bowls and figurines, shiny and smooth to the touch.

An interesting art gallery revealed another ethnic group that calls Belize home. The city of Dangriga on the north end of the Isthmus is home to the Garifuna, a cultural and ethnic group, descendants of shipwrecked slaves and native Caribs. The Garifuna have adopted the Carib language but kept their African musical and religious traditions reflected in the art in this gallery.

Signage is ramshackle and beachy and as a perfect compliment, buildings are brightly coloured, many raised up on stilts. There are also larger well tended colonial looking houses with beach front property right in the heart of town.

Along the boardwalk are various restaurants that provide beach side seating, pools and of course food. It’s such a great idea to allow access to the beach and pools in exchange for consuming lunch and/or drinks. I’ve been in other countries where you pay for the use of the property on top of the restaurant bill.

Homeward Bound

The month of February is done and as all good things must end, I am wending my way home to Vancouver Island. First a lovely over the water flight from Placencia to Belize City for an overnight stay and now waiting to board flight to Denver to connect to flight for Vancouver.

Belize will soon be a fond memory of a country of happy, friendly people, who at least in the tourism sector, are working hard to improve their lives and to capitalize on the money pouring into their country with foreigners looking for a little piece of paradise. I have loved how the various peoples of Belize blend and mix together and learn each other’s languages. In spite of poverty, income disparities and being an emerging and developing nation, I have witnessed their pride in their country and fully applaud their desire to make Belize a country to be admired and acknowledged as a liveable and respected destination.

A “Bed” in Isle of Thanet in County Kent

County Sussex – Rye and Winchelsea for the Day

Bath – From Roman Ruins to the Regency & Georgian Periods

Beyond to Bruges

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Game of Thrones

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Montenegro

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The Albanian Riviera

Enjoying Agri-tourism in Albania

Shengjin a Seaside Town

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Where Are We?

Seine Bight – Closest Bigger Shopping Stop

Which Tour to Pick….so much to do!

Placencia

Homeward Bound

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