Travel – Page 2 – Wander With Stella

BELIZE IT…A Central American Countries Slogan

Belize will soon be a fond memory of a country of happy, friendly people…..

Getting from Bacalar Mexico to Belize involved a 12 plus hour day of vans and local buses. Adrenalina tours – Guatemala, does hotel pick-ups in Bacalar and one van took us as far as the Belize Border where we cleared customs and boarded another van on the Belize side that took us to Belmopan the capital of Belize, but not before we changed vans again in Belize City.

Stopping in Belize City was somewhat of a surprise as we thought our route skirted the city and went directly to Belmopan. The bus depot shares space with the San Pedro Water Taxi dock where strangely, we were treated to a Chinese New Years Dragon Dance and fire cracker display. Loud and smokey we took refuge behind any available nose covering while simultaneously using our fingers as ear protection against the fireworks.

In Belmopan, the capital, it was a several hour wait for a local bus that would take us to Seine Bight our final destination. With the first instruction being “get off at the Jaguar Lanes” the driver and his helper seemed to know exactly where we were headed. The bus loaded with locals was comfortable and part way across the Hummingbird Highway to the coast a woman boarded selling Cinnamon bread and of course a purchase was made. Good thing as it was breakfast the next morning. Passing along the highway you are able to see the Maya mountain area of green fields, plantations and country homes. Beautiful scenery.

By the time the bus reached the “Jaguar Lanes” it was dark and we followed our next instruction which was walk to the junction turn left and keep coming. Even in the dark our noses didn’t fail us and there, just ahead “The Lazy Crab”.

Two prefabricated cabins along with the owners larger home, hover around a pool on a freshly planted garden which one day will provide some much needed shade. Palms and tropical flowering plants are planted in a sand soil which is raked regularly by the gardener.

Our unit “The Sea Horse” is small but comfortable and the front porch gives us another room for outdoor living. The prefabs are made by the local Mennonites and one day two of them came by with a drone to make a promotional video to attract other potential buyers. In this post-covid world it took all three of us to cover the cost of a month in Belize. What a difference from pre-covid days.

One Bedroom, One Bath and Day Bed (Mine)

The Belizean dollar declares itself permanently tied to the American dollar by half, using “pegging” as a means of stabilizing currency. American dollars come as change or you are welcome to pay with them.

Where Are We?

We are on a spit of land that runs north to south along the Caribbean coast of Belize and it is riddled with channels and lagoons on its backside and beautiful sand beaches on its front. Major developments mainly north of Seine Bight are springing up and the wealthy who can afford to are building monstrously big houses in stark contrast to the homes of the locals. Lots of foreign built and owned properties are for sale everywhere you look. Is it speculation, buyers remorse or need or want to repatriate?

Our hosts were helpful in providing information regarding distances, restaurants, beaches and groceries. So we set about discovering our neighbourhood. We are some distance from Placencia which was somewhat of a surprise. The buses and vans are hard to nail down as schedules are allusive and designated stops non-existent but after a few days we worked out how to get into Placencia and back but chose to do most of our shopping here at Maya Beach or further on down the road in Seine Bight.

A cab to Placencia and back costs as much as $60. USD so finding local transport is essential. The Isthmus narrows and widens as it wends its way south to Placencia and is crisscrossed by canals and lagoons, sometimes you can see water on both sides of the isthmus.

Although we have ventured into Placencia a few times and we have taken two tours we have spent most of our time at Maya Beach. It has become our ‘hood’. We have a pub, restaurant, pool hall and bowling alley “all in one” at the end of our lane. Our favourite beach which we have dubbed “first beach” after Stanley Park’s numbered beaches is a ten minute walk and even one drink will buy you a full day of beach, chaise long, pool and palm trees. Their menu is small but the food is good and the shrimp salad is repeat worthy.

Palms Overhead Shade at the Ceiba Beach Resort

Just a little further along the beach are second and third beach, otherwise known as the Green Parrot and Mangos. Similar to the Ceiba Resort, you can use the beach and chairs but not necessarily the pool. If you come to Belize for the beach and you can afford it Maya Beach is a great area and in spite of a large expat community, we’ve been able to meet many of the locals at Jaguar Lanes and other places. Belizeans are very friendly and it’s not unusual to be greeted warmly and even welcomed to the country as I was by an older gentleman in the Belmopan bus station.

In a short span of time it is easy to encounter someone from one of the three main Belizean groups of people. The Creole are decedants of African slaves and Europeans and they speak their own unique and local variation of English. Mestizo is the name given to people with Maya and Spanish ancestry and they generally speak Spanish. The Maya are a small group who claim direct decendancy and speak Maya. English is the official language of Belize as a former British colony, but I read that 64% Belizeans speak all the languages.

Seine Bight – Closest Bigger Shopping Stop

Since we were staying a month, groceries and home-cooking was warranted and the next biggest shopping opportunities were in Seine Bight. Of course getting there was a bit of a challenge but at least a taxi ride back when you’re laden with bags is affordable. The town itself is interesting and appears to be a Creole settlement.

Which Tour to Pick….so much to do!

Diving, sailing, snorkeling, fishing, caving, Maya ruins, wildlife and hiking is a start to what you can consider while in Belize.

Snorkeling on the Great Belizean Barrier Reef

Fortunately, we stumbled across a small tour office on our way to Maya Beach one day and met the tour guide Evers. He operates small tours, which are best, and we booked to go snorkeling with him out on the Great Belize Coral Reef. The second largest next to the Australian Great Barrier Reef, it is heaven for divers and snorkelers alike.

The tour price included transport to Placencia where we launched off to visit the Silk Caye. It was quite a long boat trip but very enjoyable, windy but sunny and the colour of the water was spectacular. Ever was knowledgeable and was both our tour and snorkelling guide, pointing out various underwater species and making sure we were all huddled safely together like the fish we were looking at.

Silk Caye boasts more than 35 species of fish including whale sharks, barracudas, snappers, shrimp and many more. There is a huge variety of coral. All different sizes and shapes it is well worth the efforts to save this endangered reef, now declared a World Heritage Sight. My underwater camera bag failed me and none of my photos give snorkeling here there due.

Lots of Conch Shells Laying on the Sea Floor

There were only five of us which made for lots of time for discussion and questions. The coral reef around Silk Caye was impressive, although earth tones mainly, the variety of coral was amazing and Ever had brought along a laminated sheet listing all the various kinds. Plenty of fish of brilliant colours and the odd lobster too. We also had lunch on Silk Caye which is a national marine reserve and then we were off to visit turtles, manta rays, sharks and various fish further out on the reef.

Homeward bound we stopped at Ray Caye, a private resort island that allows non-guests to eat, drink, use their pool and even zip down their water slide at the end of a double decker pier. Lots of fun and a good way to end the day before heading back to Placencia.

Cave Tubing

Tour Two was a cave-tubing adventure north of Maya Beach so we got to see a whole new area. Cave Bransh or Nohoch Che’en is one of the top 10 things to do in Belize and it is was a lot of fun but there were hoards of people, but Ever kept us all together in our small group of four and even offered us a look at Hopkins a town on the way back to the Isthmus.

Hopkins Another Beach Town

Hopkins, on the northern part of the Isthmus is really cool and is another potential place to stay if you’re beaching it but especially good for easy access to fishing and the Great Belizean Reef.

Placencia

Placencia is a delightful hodgepodge of beachfront restaurants bars, buildings on stilts and a central boardwalk that runs the length of the town. If you’re after shopping and looking for souvenirs it is a great place to wander and chat with the locals. The Maya have a firm grip on the souvenir market, selling beaded goods, hats, baskets and woven goods. Not only are they sold in the shops in Placencia you can also buy them from the lovely Maya women who walk the beaches plying their wares in the least aggressive or offensive way possible. I have purchased some small baskets and some great local hot sauces. I really like the carved wooden bowls and figurines, shiny and smooth to the touch.

An interesting art gallery revealed another ethnic group that calls Belize home. The city of Dangriga on the north end of the Isthmus is home to the Garifuna, a cultural and ethnic group, descendants of shipwrecked slaves and native Caribs. The Garifuna have adopted the Carib language but kept their African musical and religious traditions reflected in the art in this gallery.

Signage is ramshackle and beachy and as a perfect compliment, buildings are brightly coloured, many raised up on stilts. There are also larger well tended colonial looking houses with beach front property right in the heart of town.

Along the boardwalk are various restaurants that provide beach side seating, pools and of course food. It’s such a great idea to allow access to the beach and pools in exchange for consuming lunch and/or drinks. I’ve been in other countries where you pay for the use of the property on top of the restaurant bill.

Homeward Bound

The month of February is done and as all good things must end, I am wending my way home to Vancouver Island. First a lovely over the water flight from Placencia to Belize City for an overnight stay and now waiting to board flight to Denver to connect to flight for Vancouver.

Belize will soon be a fond memory of a country of happy, friendly people, who at least in the tourism sector, are working hard to improve their lives and to capitalize on the money pouring into their country with foreigners looking for a little piece of paradise. I have loved how the various peoples of Belize blend and mix together and learn each other’s languages. In spite of poverty, income disparities and being an emerging and developing nation, I have witnessed their pride in their country and fully applaud their desire to make Belize a country to be admired and acknowledged as a liveable and respected destination.

Changes in Merida and Progreso

Change, the only constant

When you fall in love with a country you have to be prepared to remind yourself that change is the only constant. Especially when your visits, once frequent, have become less so with longer time gaps in between. You are bound to notice some differences and allow yourself to pine a bit for simpler times. Beneath modernization and development can lie the remnants of culture but hopefully Mexico is able to maintain its unique charm as is the case so far in the Yucatán.

Getting There

Not one to take a direct route I had to spend at least a small amount of time in the Yucatan Mexico before heading to Belize for the month of February.

Having been many times there is a real pull for me to return to some of my favourite places in the Yucatan especially Merida and Progreso. I have blogged a fair amount about the Yucatán so will limit myself to some of the changes and highlights for the time I spent there.

New to Me – The Maya Train

Since I first heard about the new Maya Train I’ve wanted to give it a go. You can pre-book your train tickets on the Maya Tren web-site, but while still in Canada, it took a few tries throughout a couple of weeks before I was successful. The web-site indicated that the train left from the Cancun Airport station and the convenience was so inviting that it peaked my enthusiasm to the point that I booked a first class ticket to Mérida, $81.00 CAD.

The new and not quite finished Maya Train stations are monolithic, tons of poured concrete and stylish architecture but situated for the most part in construction zones so they have an eerie quality of not being anchored as of yet. The stations although huge are quiet, deserted and house little in the way of conveniences. What was there was closed for the day. So don’t arrive hungry, thirsty or in need of cash until things are really up and running.

I’m sad to say that the train does not really leave from the Cancun Airport but is located at the farthest end of the airport and I was given to understand that the only way to the station was by taxi. In retrospect I think that if I’d spent more time asking I would have a found a bus or a shuttle to the train station. However, an official at the airport told me that a taxi was the only way to get to the station on time and that the last train left at 6:00 pm which gave me cause to panic as I had a ticket for the 7:20 train. Rookie mistake, I opted for the taxi. The price was exorbitant for a fifteen minute trip and I arrived at the station just before 6:00 pm, discovering of course that my train was indeed leaving at 7:20 as printed on the ticket.

The train departed on time and a short time before departure a fairly good sized crowd had gathered, we were all lined up and a friendly young policeman had us place our bags in a row in front of us and his sniffer dog made it’s way down the line of cases. After that we were allowed into the actual station and then waited for the all clear to ride the escalator down to track level.

The first class train car, all sparkly and new, has two seats on one side and a single on the other so if you are travelling alone you can sit by yourself. Not an issue as I think there were at most about a dozen passengers in the car.

Just over four hours to Merida, we arrived at the station which is way outside of central Merida. The Merida-Teya station again is stunningly big and new and shiney clean and although it is far from town there is a tram (bus) that takes you to another new “station” about forty minutes away in Merida called La Plancha for only 45 pesos.

From there a small shuttle bus takes you to the Center of Merida to a park that thankfully was within walk distance of my hotel. Getting there late at night meant that there weren’t any taxis at La Plancha so I was grateful for the shuttle and the help of a young train worker to get me on it and explain to the driver where I wanted to go, especially since I was yet to acquire a phone card or cash.

New to Me – Trendy Avenida 47.

If you’re going to stay in a hotel in Merida I highly recommend staying somewhere on or just off the Paseo de Montejo as close to the centre of town as possible. The hotel I chose was “The Chariot” right on the Paseo and I was really happy with my stay there. Inexpensive and close to everything I wanted to see and do I discovered a whole new area that has opened up to book stores, antique shops, restaurants, pubs, galleries etc and the art instalments in several of the restaurants are great in themselves.

Now heralded as the “Corredor de Gastronomico” Avenida 47 is busy, fun, great for food and art lovers and leads directly to La Plancha.

International Cuisine, Fusion & Traditional – Delicious

And right around the corner from Avenida 47 is one of the oldest restaurants on the Paseo de Montejo. A favourite spot for the locals and tourists it serves up food in the decor of a fifties diner.

The La Plancha

Wow what an endeavour to modernize and upscale what was once a rundown old train depot. Again sleek, gigantic and people friendly, La Plancha includes kiddy parks, outdoor exercise stations, an amphitheatre, gardens and fountains and covers city blocks of land. Old train cars have been recommissioned and turned into Cafes and Bistros and there is a huge food court with seating for hundreds of people. Very empty the day we went but eventually when this new trendy area and the Maya Train is complete I’m sure it will become a welcome attraction for Meridians. Hopefully one day the train will actually land here!

Progreso

Dear little old Progreso just keeps progressing. Over the years, the Malecon went from a busy traffic street to pedestrian only, there is a now a Starbucks and many of the old mansions have been renovated and turned into expensive dining spots with ocean views. A ramshackle old hotel that I used to pass daily is now the nicely renovated and expensive Scapatta Hotel which is where I stayed in the cheapest room. Quite satisfactory, until a bat took up residence outside my door causing quite a pile of excrement on a nightly/daily basis. Luckily for me the hotel clerk was as offended by the bats behaviour as I was and upgraded me without cost to a much nicer room. I would stay at the Scapatta again but prepare myself for much higher prices than in my pre-covid meanderings. It’s just the way of the world at the moment, what used to be very affordable is no longer the case.

A New to Me Cenote

Of course a trip to the Yucatán must include a visit to a cenote. Every Cenote has its own distinct characteristics and amenities. Some very natural and informal and others organized and regulated. The Hacienda Mucuyche fits in the latter category. It is lovely, not cheap and you need to reserve online to guarantee a spot. You are assigned a guide who first shows you the remains of the old hacienda clearly resplendent in its day. What was thought to be only a well eventually revealed itself to be a series of Cenote joined by underground passages. The guide takes his limited number of people in life jackets into the first cavernous cenote and you eventually swim along an above ground channel only to enter a second dark and cavernous cenote that has a number of interesting limestone formations including numerous stalactites. After your swim there is a restaurant on-site where you can enjoy a meal in your pretty surroundings. See the link below if you’d like to visit.

https://www.cenoteshaciendamucuyche.com/

Certainly if you’re interested in a more expansive view of hacienda life that also includes a swim in a cenote visit the Hacienda Sotuta de Peon.

https://www.haciendaviva.com/en/contacto-sotuta-de-peon-yucatan

Also New to Me – Bacalar

Bacalar is within striking distance of Belize so a chance to visit an area that I’d heard good things about and to spend a few days on a fresh water system (sweet water) of lakes and lagoons presented itself. Sadly, the rainy and cooler temperatures of the Yucatan followed me to Bacalar, and between the rain and one day of feeling ill meant that I was unable to take full advantage of the fun things in Bacalar. Riding a bike out to a beach club one day included sheltering from a deluge for several hours before it was safe to ride back to my hotel.

Bacalar is a nice place however and tourism seems to be the main industry. A pretty town square surrounded by bars and restaurants and a growing number of fusion style restaurants along with the beautiful blue lagoon attracts a lot of tourists, International and Mexican.

Back to the Malabar Coast of Kerala

Brilliant Green Rice Paddies Peak Out Along the Shores

The Backwaters of Kerala – don’t miss this experience in India

Every guide book and every hotel pamphlet and tourism booth and Tuk Tuk driver will tell you the “Backwater” experience is a must in Kerala and I couldn’t agree more. What could be better than a day on the water in one of the converted Kettuvallom boats that were used to transport goods in the many waterways winding between islands and the mainland, There are several places to start your Backwater Cruise, but I chose Alleppey. (Allapuzza another one of its names) Lucky for me the skies were clear, it was hot, but at 7:00 pm the a/c comes on in your cabin about the time that the temperature drops to a comfortable 33 degrees Celsius.

My boat was lovely and had an upper and lower fore deck, with a dining area and the rest was individual state rooms. Mine had a double bed its own bathroom and windows out to the water on both sides. The other passengers were Indian families for the most part. There were only about 12 of us altogether.

For the most part people sat close to the fans suspended to the dining room ceiling as we cruised along enjoying the views and life along the banks of the waterways. I was sitting enjoying music that was playing on a set of very large speakers when the parents of some teenagers left, leaving their prodigy behind. Immediately the music and volume changed and I realised that the teens were blue-toothed to the speakers. I thought hmmmmm…. I then blue toothed to the speakers pressed play and before I knew it Pavarotti won the cage match of music styles and the teens exited the dining room. I didn’t actually intend to play some opera but it was in the queue so it just happened. Sorry teenagers!

These houseboats are remodelled versions of Kettuvalloms that were once used to carry large amounts of produce. With the changing times, they have now evolved into literal hotels on the water that are equipped with all facilities that one can find on land. The view of rural Kerala from the houseboats is spectacularly serene and pastoral in contrast to the mayhem of road tripping.

Multi-day, Overnight and Day-Trippers Pass in the Channels

Some Boats More Resplendent than Others (Day-Trippers)

Fish Market & Grocery Store – Life Along the Canals

After drifting along for several hours we stopped at a fish market and the boat’s cook was there to say that if you wanted seafood to go ahead and buy it and he would take it back to the boat and prepare it for dinner. I bought prawns and treated myself to a small Pepsi of all things. That’s what thirst will do to you in a hot country.

Brilliant Green Rice Paddies Peak Out Along the Shores

Canals Lined with Homes, Villages and Farms

A lazy day of floating along staying cool in the air stream of electric fans, we watched the sun set beneath the palm trees.

Sleeping on board was peaceful, quiet and the sky was star filled. So nice to rock to sleep looking out across the water at the lights of settlements. After breakfast we returned to Alleppey and disembarked where my fearless driver Srihari was waiting to take me further south to Varkala and Novalam the beach destinations situated outside of the capital of Kerala, Thrivarnum.

Varkala & Narvalam – Beach Towns

Having one night in Varkala seemed enough, as pretty as it was and how nice the beach was it seemed like too much of a backpackers destination, without enough Indian flavour for my liking. The handful of people that were on the beach were European.

Thirarnum & Narvala Beach

So I took a Tuk Tuk the next day to Thirarnum had a bit of a tour of the city and headed to Navvarlam where I indulged myself in a upmarket hotel situated right on the beach. The hotel had such an interesting turnover of Indian guests: wedding guests, Hindu Pilgrams, Valentines sweethearts and family groups from all parts of India. I took the half board food package, meaning I had a buffet breakfast and dinner and I must say both meals were quite delicious and I was able to sample a huge variety of dishes all with English name tags which was very helpful.

Although Indian English is a different dialect from my English, it is the common language for a country with over 700 languages according to a linguistic survey that I found on Mr. Goggle. For this reason I met a lot of people in Kerala who spoke English and their own language (Malayalam) but not Hindi as you might expect.

Leaving Trithurnam by Train

I had purchased a first class air conditioned train car to travel the three hour trip back to Kochi Airport to fly on to Sri Lanka the following day. The train car was fabulous I was taken to my seat by a porter who hoisted my luggage into the overhead racks, then the natty conductor in full conductor dress came by to greet me and welcome me, with a hand shake no less, to the train, then I was given a large bottle of water and a red rose and received a large tray of snacks, including pastries and chocolate. Quite the service and the seats were comfortable and the views inviting. I would highly recommend the train trip between Kochi and Trivurnam if you get the chance. A taxi to the President Airport Hotel from the train station and I am settled in for my overnight flight to Sri Lanka. So excited for this next part of my journey but a little sad to leave Kerala, God’s Own Country indeed.

Thekkady

The performer that started the show, rolled, raised, lowered, shuffled, circled and otherwise manipulated only his eyes such that your eyes hurt just watching…

The drive from Munnar to Thekkady takes about three hours and continues to be as awe inspiring as the drive from Kochi to Munnar. The picture below gives a good idea of the Shola Forest predominant in the Ghats.

Botanical Garden but No More Flowers…I Promise

Thekkady is quite distinctive from Munnar, has more of a National Park Vibe than does Munnar which for its part is really just a jumble of a town that straddles the highway for the purpose of commerce. The area around Munnar is what makes it a destination whereas Thekkady itself has some actual charm. The big draw for me was Periyar National Park, famous for its flora and fauna. It is also a Tiger Reserve and a great way to see the Park is on a boat cruise. We got extremely lucky by all accounts as we cruised Periyar Lake seeing bison, elephants and deer, all relatively rare sights given that it was a midday sailing.

After paying a bus fare that got me into the park and up close to the lake I purchased a ticket for the boat cruise and while I waited I had some fun people watching and some monkey antics as well. On the cruise I came to regret my decision to be lazy and leave my Nikon with telephoto lens at home. My iPhone just doesn’t cut the distances and my animal shots would have been much more satisfying.

These ladies happily agreed to have their photo taken

Seeing this and not to be outdone these ladies volunteered to be photographed. I love it!

I did alert the owner and he shooed the little fellow off…

Wow just wow! Everyone on the boat was excited.

Cruise over and bussed back to the entrance, I met up with Srihari who took me to my Hotel. Really nice rooms and pool and I had a few hours to relax before the evening activities of a Kalaripayat Martial Arts performance followed by a performance of Kutiyattam the traditional dance of Kerala.

The arena where the martial arts demonstration happened was packed and by an enthusiastic audience of all ages. I sat beside an elderly woman who didn’t hold back when demonstrating her approval, clapping and yelling when something exciting happened. It was really fun. A combination of Kerlalan traditional martial arts and weapons, with extreme yoga poses and acrobatics it was quite entertaining and I was glad I went and equally glad that I avoided the audience participation part as seen below, although I did suggest that the avid older lady fan beside me volunteer which elicited giggles and chuckles.

Increasing number of backs to hurtle over and finish with an aerial tumble.

Immediately following the Martial Arts event I walked to the nearby theatre to see Kutiyattam, India’s oldest living theatrical art form, possibly 2000 years old. Starting out in temples as a story telling form of worship it advanced in the 20th century to stage and theatres. The meaning of the word Kutiyattam is ‘acting and dancing together’. The dance is performed in a specific manner and a lot of rules must be followed. The dance can only be presented by men of Chakiar caste and the music is played by men of the Nambiear caste. All of this was explained to the audience before the performance began. A very deliberate slow moving performance which relies heavily on extreme eye movements.

The performer that started the show, rolled, raised, lowered, shuffled, circled and otherwise manipulated only his eyes such that your eyes hurt just watching. In this first part only the eyes moved everything else was stony still. After the eye tumbling and with controlled breathing, fine facial movements and hand gestures, the story unfolds. Eventually other actors join the stage and the story becomes more dynamic. The music consisted of a drum, conch shell, cymbals and flute. A bit surreal the performance definitely gave the flavour of otherworldly beings as it was intended to do.

Back to my hotel and a good nights rest in a rather swanky hotel whose name escapes me. Tomorrow we leave the mountains and rolling hills of the Western Ghats and return to the Malabar Coast to the city of Alapuzza, south of Kochi.

Kochi the city, Kerala the state and India…well you know, the country

In case you’re wondering exactly where I am at the moment…

Find the State of Kerala…look down, way down

Then find the city of Kochi on the Malabar Coast of the Arabian Sea

This being my last day of two whole days in Kochi I have been busy squeezing in as much as possible. I hired a diver with an AC car (it being only 35 C) to take me to the must see sights in Kochi. It was well worth the 2300 Indian Rupees (40 CAD) to be taken through the crazy busy streets from my hotel to the Fort Kochi area where much of the history of the Malabar coast was unfurled.

Amazingly good driver in some very robust traffic.

So many layers of influence converged on this slice of the planet mainly in the name of spice and as all food lovers will tell you that is not a minor consideration. First came the Portuguese, then the Dutch, then the British and finally, after many squabbles, they all went away. Fortunately, they did not abscond with all the spices. They did however leave their mark and Fort Kochi is the place to see it.

As a nod to its precolonial past, Kochi was a princely state ruled by the Maharaja. A surprise to me, “Kochi” includes a group of islands and towns, including Ernakulam, Mantancherry, Fort Cochin, Willingdon Island, Vypin Island, and Gundu Island. The urban mainland areas included the neighbourhoods of Trikkakara, Eloor, Kalamassery, and Trippunithura. That’s a mouthful right? The islands can be reached from the mainland where I stayed by both frequent ferries or several bridges, or better yet if you don’t mind very close quarters there are several hotels on Fort Kochi.

Kochi was a fishing village until, in the 14th century, water erosion caused it to be separated from the mainland but created a safe inside harbour. The Portuguese came and settled in the late 15th C and founded the first European settlement on Indian soil at Kochi in 1500. Fort Kochi remained a Portuguese possession until it was conquered by the Dutch in 1663.

Cantilever Nets Based on Ancient Chinese Method

Under Dutch rule (1663–1795) Kochi had its greatest prosperity, shipping pepper, cardamom and other spices and drugs as well as coir (coconut shell fibre – think doormats), coconut, and copra (dried coconut seeds used for oil and animal feed).

Locked up Tight but some interesting looking very old graves.

According to the museum in the old Mattancherry Palace, the city’s ethnic and religious groups, including its Hindu majority and the Muslim, Syrian Christian, and Jewish minorities, shared in the city’s prosperity.

Interestingly I sat beside a man on the plane from London whose heritage was Jewish. His people left Europe in one of the pogroms to settle in Kochi as spice farmers and merchants but have assimilated and become Catholic over the generations. I also read that the Jewish community in Kochi was the oldest in India, claiming to date from the 4th century. They trickled in over the centuries and lived peacefully until the Portuguese imported the ideas of the Inquisition.

At Fort Cochin is St. Francis Church, built by the Portuguese in 1510 and reputedly the first European church on Indian soil. It was for a time the burial place of Vasco da Gama before his remains were taken to Portugal. Other churches as well as Hindu temples, mosques, and the historic synagogue at Mattancherry all stand in the area.

St. Francis Church History – I don’t expect you to read it but if you do well good on you!

British rule over Kochi lasted from 1795 until 1947, when India became independent. (Watch the movie Gandhi)

A system of inland waterways running parallel to the coast provides Kochi with cheap transportation, and picturesque lagoons and backwaters that attract tourists.

Backwaters as they are known surround the islands
in front of the mainland.

The mainland part of Kochi is one endless jumble of noisy streets, buildings, commerce, life being lived, people constantly on the move using every conveyance possible to get to their jobs, homes, schools, whatever the case may be. In one single block on the main streets you pass a multitude of businesses, homes and schools. Scooters dart between Tuk Tuks darting between cars darting between trucks, daring between buses. You get the drift. (Nothing to my Mexican friends)

My Uber Tuk Tuk Ride

Street scenes always of interest, can present some forms of urban irony wherever you go and I took the opportunity to snap this one. If you know that the woman on the right in the photo is a beggar with a severe limp, you will get my drift.

The good the bad and the ugly all in one moment

Just when I was beginning to recover from jet lag and get the hang of things it was time to leave Kochi but not before I visited the Lulu Mall a temple of consumerism at its best. If this mall was in Vancouver I would not be able to afford to shop there. It has every shop knows to man the world over and is very expensive by Indian standards. My driver/now friend Sreehari told me that the average person does not shop there. That includes me! It is huge and shiny and even has a Starbucks! Of course.

And so Kochi until I pass through on my way to Sri Lanka in a few weeks time, thank you for a lovely stay and special shout out to the Ginger Kochi Hotel! I highly recommend it should you find yourself able to visit Kerala.

Scotland

Scotland in the winter is no less beautiful than Scotland in its other seasons.

Scotland in the winter is no less beautiful than Scotland in its other seasons. Leafless trees are black lacy webs against ever changing skies. They edge the vistas of rolling hills, farm dykes and river ways. The countryside is surprisingly green for January, signs of rainy days just gone, but now the no temperature has dropped and low lying fog lolls in the valleys and standing water is glazed with thin sheets of ice.

Flying to Aberdeen from Gatwick seemed a better option when train prices were comparable but the flight took less than two hours. I am so blessed with having met friends traveling and or visiting at home and so I had a warm welcome at the Aberdeen airport and transport to Tullynessle where my friends Jane and Alan live on a farm just outside of Alford near Aberdeen.

They purchased their ‘listed’ historic stone farm house in the 80’s and brought this 100 plus year old property into this century, installing enough mod-coms to raise a family and establish careers and a keep a farm. A warm fire and nights spent watching tellie with days of outings to surrounding villages for lunch and shopping passed too quickly.

The farm of my host Alan and his family was certainly a favourite outing. I was shown around the farm and the various cow barns, organized according to when and if they would calve. The cows were huge and curious and would move close to the rails for a better look at their Canadian guest. Welcoming or snoopy, hard to say but not at all menacing. Even the 1000 pound bull named Charlie was quietly chewing his cud and paid us no attention as he reposed in his private stall.

A Wee Train Trip

Glasgow

Leaving my lovely friends and hosts in Tullynessle I ventured by train to Glasgow to stay with my friends Robert and Julie and their family, where I was reminded how lucky I am to know people in Scotland and England because you can’t beat the warmth of their hospitality. The scenic train from Aberdeen to Glasgow doesn’t seem long enough, so beautiful and clear was the day.

I had spent time in Glasgow in the past and Julie and I had wandered the city on foot to visit museums, gardens and art galleries and so on this visit, at my request, we ventured to the countryside around Glasgow.

On a day trip a short ways from Glasgow, we visited Mugdock Park where we walked the paths and around Mugdock Castle. The ruins of an old castle (no shortage of them in Scotland) were interesting.

On another excursion I finally laid eyes on Loch Lomond, made fast in my mind by the song I learned as a child. “You take the high road, and I’ll take the low road and I’ll be in Scotland afore ye…” Right…we all know the words.

We had a lovely walk along the lake where Robert partook of his passion….cold water swimming, declaring it to be much warmer than on Hogmanay.

Cold Water Swimming in Loch Lomond

Neither Julie nor I cared to test his theory. Instead we enjoyed a walk along the lake and after Robert dried off we lunched in a lovely country pub, Tom Weir’s Nest and then visited the manor on the other side of the Loch where Julie and Robert were married. A beautiful spot for a memorable occasion.

Not sure if Julie really wanted to share!

From Wedding Day to Grandpa…so happy to meet little Ollie!

Edinburgh

Many years since I was in Edinburgh to see the Fringe Festival and the Tatoo. But this time I had more time to wander the city and see the sights I hadn’t seen on that first trip.

Everything I wanted to see was quite walkable from my flat on Castle Terrace and I ventured out to see the City of Edinburgh Museum, the Scottish Art Gallery and various monuments around the city. I walked the famous Royal Mile and visited a Gallery dedicated to weaving and fabric arts. A busy place, steeped in history and easy to navigate I would love to go back and spend more time out and around the city.

Where Are We?

Seine Bight – Closest Bigger Shopping Stop

Which Tour to Pick….so much to do!

Placencia

Homeward Bound

Share this: WanderwithStella

Getting There

New to Me – The Maya Train

New to Me – Trendy Avenida 47.

The La Plancha

Progreso

A New to Me Cenote

Also New to Me – Bacalar

Share this: WanderwithStella

Share this: WanderwithStella

Share this: WanderwithStella

Share this: WanderwithStella

A Wee Train Trip

Glasgow

Edinburgh

Share this: WanderwithStella