A November American Sojourn – American Thanksgiving: Arkansas, Texas and New Mexico.

Southern US friends, food and sights!

Headed to Shreveport….Louisiana That Is….

Leaving Nanaimo between storms is the smart thing. I dodged the high winds and bucketing rain of the last few days and the predicted Cyclone Bomb of tomorrow. Once known as rain and wind we now have Atmospheric Rivers and Cyclone Bombs. My first time on the HULLO high speed passenger boat from my hometown Nanaimo to downtown Vancouver and we are sailing along at a great speed. Evidence of the recent storms is all around the boat in the form of floating dead heads, a marine hazard of the worst sort. But the HULLO is dodging around them at a great clip and we will be in downtown Vancouver in no time.

I am in Vancouver, positioning myself for a next day flight to the USA to visit a friend who has moved from Nanaimo to Arkansas. Even though I land in Louisiana my destination is Lake Erling in Arkansas where my friend and her husband have a “fish camp”. When I first heard the term I pictured them engaged in a commercial enterprise that catered to sports fishermen, but in fact it is what all homes on a lake are called, like we would say “cabin.”

Lake Country South West Corner Arkansas

If you’re headed to the SW corner of Arkansas the best airport to fly into is Shreveport which is in the NW corner of Louisiana. It is small and easily accessible for the friends, who if you’re lucky enough will drive the 1.5 hours to fetch you.

Arriving in the dark there wasn’t much to see but waking in the morning gave the picture of why my friends live where they live. Nestled in a pine forest down a private but shared road they look westward over Lake Erling. Their private dock affords them the luxury of fishing and wildlife viewing when they are not out on their boat catching catfish and other local fish species. Spotting the occasional crocodile in the water, eagles soaring overhead, herons squawking in early flight and red skied sunsets are daily events for the folks who call the lake-side fish camps home. Some camps are occupied by full-time residents while others are used on weekends or holidays.

Fish Camp

Since we were tucked up into the corner of Arkansas it meant that we could easily visit the neighbouring corners of Louisiana and Texas. Our first day was spent crossing these state lines into Louisiana and then Texas to visit a tourist town called Jefferson. Full of antique shops, quaint stores and southern food restaurants we wandered the streets, visiting stores and eventually heading to a barbecue restaurant for smoked brisket sandwiches, hot water corn bread and sweet sauced beans. Not a veg or a leaf of lettuce in sight, but as a nod to nutrition we were able to mix our “sweet cold tea” with non-sweet to cut down on the sugar intake. Very authentic barbecue, and as proof, just outside the restaurant was the stack of wood used to fire up the smokers. The decor was definitely southern and American with flags and memorabilia on every wall. Styrofoam cups, plastic straws and a roll of paper towel for napkins along with plastic cutlery and paper plates all headed for the bin after we ate.

Real Southern Smoked Brisket and Beans

Trying southern food is a real experience but I would not want to be a vegetarian that’s for sure.

Menu from the South
Chicken Fried Steak, White Gravy, Fries, Beans and Garlic Toast…chicken friend steak being beef battered like chicken and deep friend…no actual chickens died in the preparation of this meal.
Southern Memorabilia

Visiting the shops along the Main Street was fun to see the Christmas Season starting up with decorations and gift ideas amongst the usual collection of antiques, clothing and gift stores. Such a huge array of stock in every store and I even spotted the Red Ryder BB Gun made famous in The Christmas Story movie.

Red Ryder.. You’ll shoot your eye out…..
Southern Berries and Jellies
An Array of State Licence
Country Life
Patriotic Skeleton

Having little or knowledge of Arkansas before traveling there I was surprised at the number of lakes, small towns and rural life style that pervaded, at least in this corner of Arkansas.

Lake Country
Cypress Swamps
Spanish Moss

Next Up – Road Trip Clear Across Texas to New Mexico with a night in Amarillo. Long drive for sure and very grateful to my friends who were willing participants. The highway was fraught with truck traffic and really not much to see, pretty flat and prairie like when you could see around the semi-trucks.

New Mexico

But arriving in New Mexico the terrain changed to mountains and we were able to stop at a Puebla not far out of Santa Fe. The Puebla situated in the Pecos National Park housed the remains of a once thriving community that was located on the Santa Fe Trail a famous trade route between indigenous communities. Preservation work is ongoing and the park has a really great museum that outlines the history of the people that called the Pueblo home before contact.

Santa Fe & Albuquerque

After my Arkansas friends left to return home I was fortunate to revisit my friend Loni-Jo Dunham in Placitas, just south of Santa Fe and my friends the Reeves in Albuquerque. Beautiful landscapes, arty communities and American thanksgiving along with the on-set of Christmas filled the air.

Loni-Jo
Battle Rock
Santa Fe Pueblo Style
Santa Fe with the Reeves
Albuquerque from Above
A Gondola Ride Later
American Thanksgiving
Christmas Is Coming

Westgate to Birmingham (Well Sort Of) on to Plymouth and Polperro Cornwall and Back to Westgate – Kind of a golden triangle only rainy.

The city of Walsall where my lovely hosts live in a Victorian era house that they decorate beautifully for the holidays.

To say that I took the train from Margate to Birmingham to visit friends would only be partially accurate because they actually live in Walsall a town just outside of Birmingham.

However, my lovely hosts Charn and Shem met me under the impressively large bull in the Birmingham New Street station and we proceded out into the bustling core of the city.

Birmingham Bull – Tourism Photo

What knowledge I had of Birmingham was limited to picturing it as a dilapidated steel mill town that had seen better days and more recently to the images from Peaky Blinders. I was surprised when we spilled out onto the crowded streets surrounding the train station, to see a vibrant, bustling downtown core festooned with Christmas decorations.

Our first stop was to visit a pub that had been the “local” for a friend I knew back home who sadly had passed away in March. It was comforting to imagine Dave there in his younger days with his friend and my host Shem. The place was packed with punters, clearly not taking a break from pints between Christmas and New Year’s. The Old Joint Stock pub itself has a beautifully ornate interior, including a glass domed ceiling, and was once a bank building.

The Old Joint Stock Pub – Dave’s Local from days gone bye

After a few, we left the pub for an Italian restaurant for great food, conversation and company. Dinner done, we ventured out of Birmingham to the city of Walsall where my lovely hosts live in a Victorian era house that they decorate beautifully for the holidays. Every room was decorated and the ornaments on the tree were collected over many years and from many holiday destinations.

Great hosts Shem and Charn planned a day out to visit the local Art Gallery that was featuring an exhibit by South Asian woman focused on cultural identities, inclusivity and belonging. This multi media exhibit included video, displays and a variety of multimedia art pieces, all very colourful and brilliant statements. For a small gallery it was well curated and the main collection donated by two local women included a wide range pieces. Curation of note for sure.

After a walk through the town and the Walsall Arboretum, we arrived home and Charn prepared Indian dishes, including curries, samosas and pakoras. Early the next morning Charn and Shem drove me back to Birminham New Street station and I boarded the train for Plymouth, where my nephew and his family met me and we travelled on by car to Polperro where we were to spend New Years.

Delicious Pakoras, Curries and Samosas

Polperro Cornwall – Year 2 of Fancy Dress for New Years

Our return to Polperro for New Years was made possible by the lovely Renata who booked our accommodation. A slightly larger party we rented a three bedroom stone house perched on the edge of the Polperro harbour. The stormy sea was right under my bedroom window and we had several days of storm watching. The weather curtailed outdoor activities but the cottage was cozy and warm and every window had a different view of the sea rolling by roiled up by a storm named Henk. Binge watching Poldark added to the scenario as here we were in that very setting,

Our Little Cottage

The weather took a break for New Years Eve which was good because following a pub crawl in fancy dress (costumes) the town ends in the village square for the countdown and the singing of Auld Lang Syne. Fireworks over the harbour were a suitable ending to a fun night with a chance to say a hearty goodbye to 2023 and welcome 2024.

The Wild and Stormy Weather
Shades of Poldark
Polperro
What Do An 80’s Rock Star, A Baby Shark and a Canadian Lumberjack Have in Common?
Kevin & Perry (Not Really)
One of the Best Costumes
Thing One and Thing Two
Rub a Dub Dub
Sea Captain

The Long and Winding Road Home to Margate

And Guess What We Passed Enroute

Budapest for the Christmas Markets

As I was going to be in England and a friend mentioned Budapest for the Christmas Markets, I could hardly say no. I had never been to Hungary and it had long been on my list of places to visit. Just over a two hour flight from Heathrow we arrived late in the day and went by taxi to our air BnB in District V, the central area of Budapest.

As an introduction to the city we used the Hop on Hop off Bus which offered a perfect opportunity to have an overall view of the city, giving us ideas of what we wanted to make a point of getting back to for a longer look.

The Danube in Winter colours
Written up as the most Beautiful Restaurant in the World but too long a line up!
Our Neighborhood
Parliament Buildings
Parliament Building by Day

Our BnB location was within walk distance of the St Stephen’s Basilica Christmas Market which in the end was our favourite of the markets. Seemed a little less crowded than some others, the food was wonderful and there was a light show set to the Nutcracker Suite beamed onto the front of the Basilica. Named after Stephen, the first King of Hungary, it is the largest church in Hungary and home to one of King Stephen’s mummified hands. 

St Stephen’s Basilica
Love the sellers at the a Christmas Markets

The stalls were full of Hungarian Christmas goodies and crafts and sitting outdoors at picnic style benches and tables was not the least unpleasant in spite of the chill in the air.

Christmas Crafts
Entering the Market

The Danube River divides the Pest and Buda sides of Budapest and several bridges span the river, dotted with cruise boats and especially pretty at night. On the Pest side which is where we stayed are some of the sights we visited including the impressive Parliament Buildings, the Grand Market Hall, the Jewish Quarter surrounding the Dohány Street Synagogue and the museum dedicated to the memory of Holocaust victims.

One of many squares lit up for Christmas

The Jewish museum is well worth the visit, although it is gut wrenching to hear some of the stories and view the photos from Budapest during WW11, it is a necessary reminder, especially timely today. Visitors from all over and from all religions appear to be drawn to the Synagoue and Museum and certainly the interior of the synagogue is very impressive. The streets around the synagogue are great to wander after a visit and give you an idea of the density of Jewish population in that area at one time.

Dohany Street Synagogue
Interior of Synagogue
Sculpture in Synagogue Courtyard

The National Museum of Hungary is housed in a stately palace. It is a vivid account to the lengthy and turbulent history of Hungary from the earliest of times to the present day and while there we took in a special exhibit called Brides of Hungary, a tribute to women in different time periods and the dresses that reflected the style of various decades. With feminist leanings it went beyond fashion and provided glimpse into the lives of women over time.

National Museum of Hungary
Bride’s Exhibit

The Grand Market is just that, huge, multi-layered and full of Hungarian art, craft, food, clothing, accessories and of course at this time of year Christmas gifts. Well worth a wander and not to be missed, the neighbourhood around the market is great for a wander as well. 

Grand Market
Grand Market

On the Buda side of the Danube we visited Buda castle by taking the beautiful wooden funicular up the side of the hill to the castle itself. At the top we had a great view of the city on both sides of the river and were able to wander back to our hotel across the Chain Bridge, so names for the chains it hangs from.

Buda Castle
Buda Castle
Buda Castle Courtyard
Chain Bridge

Also on the Buda side of the river we visited the Gellert Thermal bath, one of many that make Budapest a draw for their healing properties. Built in the Art Nouveau style between 1912 and 1918, it has several hot baths each labeled with their particular temperature, a massive numbers of lockers, and spa services including massage. A bit of a maze and challenging to navigate it was a very relaxing way to spend a few hours.

The food in Budapest deserves special recognition and we were able to sample several notably Hungarian dishes and drinks including. As you can imagine Goulash or Gulyas was on most restaurant menus and served at the Christmas markets as well. A popular dish it is a hearty and warm stew filled with beef, paprika, onions and potatoes and sometimes served with spetzel like noodles. Delicious and warming especially outside at night.

Chicken paprikas (Csirke Paprikas) is astonishingly red because of the amount of sweet paprika mixed with tomatoes, garlic and sweet peppers in. Sour cream is added and delicious chewy dumplings make the dish very filling. A must try in Budapest in.

Chicken Paprikas

Of course the signature dish of Hungary is Goulash and nothing beats a warm bowl at an outdoor market.

Goulash Served in a Bread Bowl

We also indulged in Chimney Cakes which we saw cooked over barbecue coals at one market and in a special rotisserie like oven at another market. A doughnut like batter is wrapped around a wooden form and rotated over heat until done, sprinkled with sugar while it cooks gives a cartelized effect and when removed from the wooden form this confection stand erect like a chimney. Quite delicious and definitely shareable.

Chimney Cakes

Meat Pancakes (Hortobagyi Palacsinta) are thin pancakes filled with savoury chicken or beef minced into small pieces. Once filled the pancakes are rolled into burrito like shapes and baked and then covered with a paprika sauce and of course a dollop of sour cream. Mmmmm

Stuffed Cabbage Leaves (Toltott Kaposzta) the Hungarian cabbage roll is made from cooked, pickled cabbage and filled with minced pork, paprika (of course) and rice. When I ordered this dish at a Christmas market it came with sausage and grilled vegetables and went down well with mulled wine.

A very popular dish with the Hungarians was a deep-fried flat bread (Langos), crispy on the outside while soft on the inside, it is sprinkled with cheese and topped off with sour cream. Looked delicious but one can only eat so much so I didn’t have the room to try it. 

Fancy Version of a Langos

I hope to visit Hungary again when I have more time and I’m able to see other parts of the country. It has a quietness about it that you don’t find in other European Capitals. People seem less hurried and definitely friendlier, especially the people who work with tourists like myself. Until I return Budapest, keep your magic alive.

A Very English Christmas

A feast for the eyes and spirit…

When your nephew invites to his home in Westgate on Sea in Kent England for Christmas you would be a fool to say no. Although I had a fun week in Europe at the Christmas Markets my Very English Christmas was the purpose of my travels.

I arrived in at my nephews stone house on the shores of the North Sea in time to watch Christmas preparations unfold. My wonderful nephew and his family took great pains to make this a special Christmas, beginning with touring the local area visiting castles, villages, museums and cathedrals.

A Warn Welcome in a lovely home

Wild skies and lonely winter beaches along the Kent coast

Kent is know as the Garden of England and is famous for the White Cliffs of Dover, Canterbury Cathedral, Churchills home Chartwell & numerous castles, forts and manor houses.

Close to Westgate is Walmer Castle built during the reign of Henry the VIII as a coastal defense, the ownership of the castle has passed down through the centuries and is now a property managed by the English Heritage. It has eight acres of gardens which due to the stormy weather we only enjoyed from above in the dryness of the castle. One famous resident of the castle was the Duke of Wellington and his bed and boots are still there along with his story. Also close to Walmer Castle are Roman ruins where the forces of Rome launched their invasion of Celtic Britan.

We also drove along the coast to see Dover Castle which from the exterior is quite stunning in size, location and design but it was an extremely windy day and the castle itself was closed to safeguard would be tourists. We were however able to visit the underground tunnels original to the castle but used extensively during the Second World War. We weren’t allowed to take photos inside the tunnels but inside their own relics of WWII communications technology. Weather made photos impossible from outside so here is a photo from wikipedia of the Castle .

Dover Castle

Along the coast we visited a variety of places and walked through the towns and along the beaches and even in the winter there is a charm and beauty to Kent that comes from the magnificent skies, seaside towns and living history.

One evening a group of us headed for Canterbury where we visited the Christmas Market and did some shopping in the historic centre before heading into the Cathedral for a Christmas service, the main attraction being the choral music, richly satisfying in this age old Cathedral with naturally fantastic acoustics.

My nephew, Christian and I spent three great days in London, renting an air bnb in Kensington we managed to buy same day tickets at discounted prices for the musical Tina and the play The Best of Enemies. Both were interesting to see but I think Covid has impacted the world of theatre greatly and these were two of the few things that I haven’t seen in various trips to London. Hopefully things will revive and there will be new playbills on the horizon.

My London traditions include “light seeing” along Regent and Oxford Streets, purchasing Christmas tea at Harrods, visiting Covent Gardens and spending some time in wine bars and pubs. I like to visit Trafalgar Square because both the National Gallery and Canada House are there and of course St. Martin’s in the Field, where if you’re lucky you can catch a Christmas Concert and have a bite to eat in the Catacombs below the church.

Christian and I said goodbye for a time while I headed off to meet friends in Oxford where we spent a weekend catching up, visiting (guess what) Christmas markets, pubs and seeing the various College buildings scattered around the University of Oxford.



After a fun time in Oxford I went back to Brighton with my friends and stayed for several nights. Long enough to walk the sea wall and watch the “sky show”above the English Channel. On the solstice Brighton celebrates the shortest day of the year with a pagan celebration known as Burning the Clocks. A parade of people with a variety of interesting lanterns made from rice paper and bamboo wend their way through the old narrow streets, ending at the beach where there is a giant bonfire to burn the lanterns and to add more light to the picture a boat is burned to acknowledge the coming of light as the days get longer.

Since the trains were on rotating strikes it was difficult to get from one place to another but a window op opportunity presented and I was able to take a train from Brighton back to Westgate on Sea just in time for Christmas. Eleven people were at the table and my hosts made the most wonderful dinner with of course Christmas pudding at the end.


To top it all off, for New Years, we drove clear across England from Kent to Polperro in Cornwall. This is a quaint stone house type fishing village with again a lengthy and rich history. Folks come to Polperro to celebrate New Years by wearing “fancy dress” or what we Canadians would call costumes. It was so much fun and in the post-covid world people were hungry to gather and celebrate with music, dance, food and drink and fireworks at midnight in the main square. I loved how people mingled with complete strangers, admiring each other’s costumes and sharing the joy of celebrating what hopefully will be a much better year in these interesting times.

I loved my English Christmas, I loved getting together with family, the variety of things I was able to see and do, the fun, witty, friendly people I always meet in the UK. Needless to say I will be back. Thanks to everyone who made my visit so stellar!

Advent in Germany & Austria

The Warmth of Christmas Markets

In the days running up to Christmas the world takes on a glow, people scurry about making their holiday preparations but perhaps one of the best traditions I’ve encountered are the German and Austrian Christmas markets. Outside in the cold sipping mulled wine (Gluwein) is surprisingly pleasant and warming. Town squares are festooned with rows of booths and throngs of locals gearing up for the Season. The booths invitingly lit and stuffed with various foods, sweets, games, toys, decorations etc.. You can never go hungry or thirsty at one of these markets as you squeeze between the crowds, navigating your way to the next booth for a Gluwein or a delicious German sausage!

I have travelled in Germany in the past but often to large cities and there one brushes up against the European International experience. On this trip to Germany I visited a friend and her family who live just outside of Munich. Utting is one of many small hamlets in this area known as the “Five Lakes” region. Utting is on the lake and if you look east and north to the end of the lake you can see the Alps. My friends family was warm and hospitable and shared food and traditions, including the lightening of the four candles on each Sunday leading up to Christmas Day. Great food and lots of laughs were shared.

A beautiful lake in Utting and in the summer there is a ferry to the other side and if you look down the lake you can see the Alps.

Nearby there are larger centers and during the days my friend and I drove to cities of Landsberg and Augsburg to see the sights and visit the Christmas Markets.

Landsberg

Landsberg is a smallish town on the beautiful Lech river and the settlement can be traced back more than 2000 years. There is a beautiful very old and ornate city hall with an information centre which has brochures in English if, like me, that’s what you are limited to.

The town square Christmas Market in Landsberg

A very tall tree.

Street Scenes as the afternoon wanes

Foot bridges and over the river and it’s branches that run right through the town.

City gates protected Landsberg in days gone by.

The River runs between the buildings and cascades at the widest point.

Landsberg Cathedral

Delicious eats and warming drinks while you shop the stalls.

Augsburg

Next stop was the town of Augsburg, a city bigger than Landsberg and it too was in full Christmas Market swing. Founded under Roman rule Augsburg has roots that go back 2000 years making it one of Germany’s oldest cities. With a city centre boasting a grand shopping street, Maximillianstraus, and beautiful Baroque and Renaissance buildings fronting the main square where you will find the Christmas Market.

The rooftops of Augsburg

These giant homes, now apartments, offer a pastel palette to passers by.

The amazingly gilded government palace on the main square.

The market from above and down in the thick of things

My lovely guide and friend Andrea

Munich


Munich, Bavaria’s capital, is home to centuries-old buildings and numerous museums. The city is known for its annual Oktoberfest celebration and its beer halls, including the famed Hofbräuhaus, founded in 1589. In the Altstadt (Old Town), central Marienplatz square contains landmarks such as Neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (town hall), with a popular glockenspiel show that chimes and reenacts stories from the 16th Century.

In addition to which, Munich boasts the an impressive number of Christmas markets scattered around the city centre. The same array of food, drink and shopping as other markets but on a bigger scale. Impressive in all seasons I especially loved Munich at Christmas.

Munich Main Square

Vienna

Next stop on my Advent tour was Vienna. A four hour train trip from Munich Vienna is no slouch either in the Christmas Market tradition. Having made a friend on a boat trip down the Mekong River I decided to visit, see Vienna and rekindle the friendship. So glad I did as Vienna was resplendent in all it’s Christmas glory.

Busy shopping street in Vienna

The not so blue Danube and one of the River Boats

In between visits with my friends I took the Hop on Hop Off Bus Tour of Vienna which has grown outwardly since I visited in the 80’s. There is so much to see and do in Vienna and it is truly a city for all seasons, but a winter visit does mean fewer tourists and more breathing room than what I remember.

Dinners out and visits to Christmas Markets kept me and my friends fed and entertained as Gluwein in hand, we sipped our way through the stalls.

Environmentally friendly, you pay a deposit for the non-disposable mugs and if you return them you get your euros back but if you wish to keep the mug as a souvenir that is fine.

My last day in Vienna, it snowed and that was an added bonus. Great white fluffy flakes falling on the city completed the Christmas spirit and I left glad that I had gone and hopeful to return to both Austria and Germany.

Christmas in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca

Christmas in the Oaxaca Sun

Returning to Puerto has become one of my routines in Mexico. As in Progreso, I have made good friends there and am always excited to return and catch up with their lives. In years past I have stayed at Casa Rosada, but this year I booked a place on the fourth floor of an apartment building in Rinconada, a trendy restaurant filled area close to several great beaches. I was really pleased with my apartment and the view was stunning. A bonus was that Inti, my landlord was super.. helpful, responsive and friendly too! Cielito Lindo is the name and they have studio and one bedroom suits.

My Apartment
Stunning View & Great Sunsets from Patio

With Covid in the picture I wasn’t too keen on sight seeing and exploring, but fortunately I have done a lot of that on earlier visits so going to various beaches, open air restaurants and sitting by pools had to do. I know…poor me. If you’re interested in knowing more about what you can do in and around Puerto here is a link to my previous posts on the area.https://wanderwithstella.com/2016/03/31/oaxaca-coast/ or scroll through the posts to see others including Oaxaca City.

For many people, Puerto is all about the beaches of which there are many and one can easily spend a whole day at the beach under a palapa umbrella with the odd chelada (cold beer and lime juice on ice) to quench one’s thirst. People watching is a great pastime at the beach and even in covid locals and visitors enjoyed swimming and playing in the waves. Mexican families are generally large and they tend to travel in multi-generational groups, making for lots of antics and noisy fun.

My “Home” Beach – Playa Manzanilla
Playa Zicatela – Long, Lovely, Big Surf
Playa La Punta – Javier & Gabriela, Surfer Beach like Zicatela Has Big Surf
Playa Principal – Popular with Local and Families
Watch Out for Pool Sharks Like Gabriela on Zicatela
Soft Sand and Shady Palapas!

Food in Oaxaca is among the best in Mexico and some of the worlds top chefs have made the State home, opening great restaurants in the capital, Oaxaca City, and other smaller locales. I have some personal favourite dishes: tacos pastor, pozole (soup) and tlayudas.

Street Tacos – The Best!

Mid-way through December, Christmas vacation brought large numbers of people to Puerto, which in a normal year would add to the fun. But given the crowds that began to cluster on the beaches I refrained from going every day unless it was to Bacocha Beach where there is plenty of room to social distance they have the most incredible sunsets…so again no real hardship. There are two beach clubs at Bacocha and for a fee you can eat, drink, use the pool and beach chairs for the entire day and the costs come out of you fee.

Bacocha Beach
Sunset at Bacocha

San Jose del Pacifico – A road trip from Puerto

Lucky for me, my friends Javier and Gabriela were game to rent a car and make the drive up the long and winding road to San Jose del Pacifico in the Sierra del Sur. A small town in the mountains, it is a place for adventure seekers, hikers and climbers to visit. It is truly beautiful and charming and due to its location in the middle of pine forests, the building practices incorporate more wood than is common in Mexico, giving the place a definite flavour of mountain retreats. The clima also reflects the altitude and out came the jackets, pants and socks from the bottom of the suitcase when the temperature dropped to 6 Celsius when the sun set over the mountains.

The highway between Puerto Escondido and the turn-off to San Jose is greatly improved since my last visit and and a by-pass road before Pachutla meant that we missed the traffic of this busy commercial centre. As you leave the coast and head up into the Sierra the road becomes narrow, with hair pin curves and even some “logging” trucks. The road as you would expect was lots of fun to drive and Javier and I took turns, and much to his dismay Gabriela favoured my driving to his!

Stunning Scenery Makes the Trek Up Worthwhile
Miradors Along the Way
Many Little Pueblos Along the Road

We stayed in a very nice hotel overlooking a valley, built with lots of pine wood the cabins were post and beam with timbered rafters. There weren’t many people at this newish hotel and we generally had the dining room to ourselves. I can see where the visitors will come once covid is over and the word is out. From this same road that takes you to the top of the Sierras you can take a turn a little further down the mountain and take the original road from the coast to the city of Oaxaca. Javier recalled driving his entire family, most of it in the back of a pick-up from Mexico City to Puerto Escondido when he was just a teenager. Some of the folks in the back lacked an appreciation for his enthusiasm for the road as car sickness overtook them.

Our Hotel and Gardens

We hired a local guide who showed us the sights, taking us to all of the spots of interest for visitors. Our first stop was a combination resort, restaurant, fish hatchery and zip line, with of course Javier and I had to try out.

Fish Hatchery, Hike and Even Turkeys
Guide Held This Interesting Insect for the Photo

Following our hike and zip-line adventure our guide took us to a local home where the owners have suspended a wooden swing close to the edge of a cliff and so you swing out over thin air, belted in you are relatively safe and again the views were spectacular.

Wheeeeeeee!
Javier All Set to Swing!

This was the first of our human launch experiences and I must admit the next one did take my breath away.

San Jose del Pacifico is all about tourism and forestry including furniture making. There are many attractions for visitors whether you want to jump off the edge of things or stay firmly on the ground like Gabriela, there is something for everyone.

Christmas in Puerto Escondido

Back in Puerto, after our weekend in San Jose del Pacifico, it was clear that Christmas Vacay was really ramping up and the night market on the Adoquin in Centro was packed with people and possible regalos. Decorations sprung up all over town and Javier and Gabriela invited me to join them for their Christmas Eve dinner.

Adoquín Busy with Christmas Vacationers

Lots of Christmas spirit in Puerto with lights, decorations and fireworks to celebrate the many special days in the Christmas season.

Javier and Gabriela invited me to their family Christmas Eve dinner which is the main event in Mexico. Javier picked me up at 8 PM and we drove to their home. They had set up a table in a neighbour’s yard under an almond tree strung with Christmas lights and along with four of their neighbours, Javier, Gabriela, their two sons and I enjoyed the typical Christmas feast of fish and pork. Both dishes took two days to prepare and the neighbours contributed a few dishes of their own including a sweet crepe desert with honey drizzled on top.

And now with Christmas done, I will say goodbye for now and set my mind to my next adventure….Guatemala.